Read Ebook: Three Expeditions into the Interior of Eastern Australia Volume 1 With Descriptions of the Recently Explored Region of Australia Felix and of the Present Colony of New South Wales by Mitchell T L Thomas Livingstone

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OF VOLUME 1.

JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF THE KINDUR, IN 1831 AND 1832.

A Bushranger's story. My plan of exploration. Preparations. Departure from Sydney. A garden. Country between Sydney and the Hawkesbury. Beyond the Hawkesbury. Summit of Warrawolong. Natives of Brisbane Water. The Wollombi. Valley of the Hunter. Fossils of the Hunter. Men employed on the expedition. Equipment. Burning grass. Aborigines and Colonists. Cambo, a wild native. A Colonist of the right sort. Escape of the Bushranger, The Barber. Burning Hill of Wingen. Approach Liverpool Range. Cross it. A sick tribe. Interior waters. Liverpool Plains. Proposed route. Horses astray. A Squatter. Native guide and his gin. Modes of drinking au naturel. Woods on fire. Cross the Turi Range. Arrive on the River Peel. Fishes. Another native guide. Explore the Peel.

Enter an unexplored region. Situation of Mr. Oxley's camp on the Peel. Westward course of the river. Kangaroo shot. Calcareous rocks. Acacia pendula first seen. Other trees near the river. Junction of the Peel and Muluerindie. View from Perimbungay. Ford of Wallanburra. Plains of Mulluba. View from Mount Ydire. Hills seen agree with The Bushranger's account. The river Namoi. Stockyard of The Bushranger. Singular fish. View from Tangulda. Cutting through a thick scrub. Want of water. Impeded by a lofty range of mountains. Marks of natives' feet. Maule's river. A grilled snake. View on ascending the range of Nundewar. Native female. Proposed excursion with packhorses. Native guide absconds. The range impassable. Return to Tangulda. Prepare to launch the boats on the Namoi.

Fires in the Bush. Rocks of Bullabalakit. Boat launched. Bees load my rifle with honey. Embark on the Namoi in canvas boats. Impediments to the navigation. Boat staked, and sinks. The leak patched. She again runs foul of a log. Provisions damaged. Resolve to proceed by land. Pack up the boats, and continue the journey. Pass the western extremity of Nundewar Range. Unknown tree. Water scarce. Providential supply. Crayfish. Trap-hill on plains. Cut through a scrub. Meet a tribe of Natives. Again obliged to cut our way. Fortunate discovery of water. Dry valleys. Mount Frazer. The party in distress for want of water. Water found next day. Ducks. Wheel Ponds. Excessive heat and drought. Description of the woods. Meet with natives. Cross the dry bed of a river. A friendly native with his family. No water. Reach the Gwydir. Cross it with one man. Prevented by a native with spears, from shooting a kangaroo. Re-cross the river.

Change the route to trace the course of the Gwydir. A native village of bowers. Effect of sudden moisture on the wheels. Tortuous course of the Gwydir. Lines of irrigation across the plains. Heavy rain. Crested pigeon. The party impeded by the soft state of the surface. Lagoons near the river. Excursion northward. Reach a broad sheet of water. Position of the party. The common course of the river, and the situation of the range considered. Nondescript tree and fruit. Plains of rich soil, beautifully wooded. Small branches of the Gwydir. Much frequented by the natives. Laughable interview of Dawkins with a tribe. Again reach the Gwydir. A new cucumber. Cross the river and proceed northward. A night without water. Man lost. Continue northward. Water discovered by my horse. Native weirs for catching fish. Arrive at a large and rapid river. Send back for the party on the Gwydir. Abundance of three kinds of fish. Preparations for crossing the river. Natives approach in the night. View from one tree fastened to another. Mr. White arrives with the party and lost man. Detained by natives. Mr. White crosses the river. Marks of floods on trees. Man lost in the woods. Natives' method of fishing. Native dog. Mr. White's account of the river.

Excursion down the Karaula. Its unexpected course. Formidable insects. Junction of the Gwydir. Owls and Rats. Natives at the camp during my absence. Their attempts to steal. Native dogs. Tents struck to cross. Arrival of Mr. Finch. Murder of his men. Loss of his horses. And seizure of his stores by the natives. Destroy the boat and retire from the Karaula. Forced march to the Gwydir. Numerous tribes surround the party. Good effects of sky-rockets. Funeral dirge by a native female. Dog killed by a snake. Numerous tribes follow. The party regains the plains.

Proposed movements. Hot wind. Heavy rains set in. Country impassable for several days. Excursion to the plundered camp of Mr. Finch. Recover the cart and trunks. Bury the bodies. Columns of smoke. Signals of the natives. Courage and humanity of one of the men. Homeward journey continued. Difficult travelling. Civility of the tribe first met. Mosquitoes troublesome. Regain the Namoi. Ascend Mount Warroga. Re-cross the Peel. Conclusion.

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Meteorological Journal kept during the Expedition to the North-west, and commenced on crossing Liverpool Range, December 1, 1831.

EXPEDITION SENT TO EXPLORE THE COURSE OF THE RIVER DARLING, IN 1835.

Supposed course of the Darling. Mr. Dixon's survey of the Bogan. Expedition postponed. Description of the boat carriage. Number and description of the party. Expedition leaves Parramatta. My departure from Sydney. Western part of Cumberland. County of Cook. The Blue Mountains. Weatherboard Inn. Mounts Hay and Tomah. River Grose. Early attempts to trace it upwards. Intended Tunnel. Pass of Mount Victoria. Advantages of convict labour. Country of Mulgoey. Emu plains. Township. General arrangement of towns and villages. The mountain road. Vale of Clywd. Village reserve. Granite formation. Farmer's Creek. River Cox and intended bridge. Mount Walker. Solitary Creek. Honeysuckle Hill. Stony Range. Plains of Bathurst. The town. Inconvenience of want of arrangement in early colonization. Smallfarmers. Intended Bridge. Departure from Bathurst. Charley Booth. Road to Buree. Canobolas. Arrival at the camp of the party.

Ascend the Canobolas. Choose the direction of my route. Ascend the hill north of Buree. Encamp on the Mundadgery. Cross a granitic range. King's Creek. Cross Hervey's range. First view of the interior. Parched state of the interior country. The dogs kill a kangaroo. Steep descent to the westward. Search for water by moonlight. Encamp without any. Follow a valley downwards and find water. Lifeless appearance of the valleys. Luxury of possessing water after long privation. Ascend Mount Juson with Mr. Cunningham. Enter the valley of the Goobang. Meet the natives. Social encampment. Mount Laidley. Springs on the surface of the plains under Croker's range. Cross Goobang Creek. The dogs kill three large kangaroos. Wild honey brought by the natives. Arrive at Tandogo. Allan's water of Oxley. Advantage of aboriginal names on maps. Excursion with Mr. Cunningham. Effects of a hurricane in the forest. Encamp without water. Natives leave the party. Cattle distressed for want of water. Mr. Cunningham missing. Desperate search for water. At length find water on reaching by night the river Bogan. Encamp on this river.

Search for Mr. Cunningham. No traces to be seen. Supposed to have met with an accident. Souter and Murray sent back along the track. My search South-South-West 40 miles. Interview with two natives. Range of porphyry. Mr. Cunningham's track found. Mr. Larmer and a party sent to trace it. Mr. Cunningham's track followed for 70 miles, his horse found dead. His own footsteps traced. Mr. Larmer meets a tribe. The footsteps traced into the channel of the Bogan. Death of the Kangaroo. Reflections. Five natives brought to me with a silk handkerchief in their possession. Their names. The party halt at Cudduldury. Interview with the King of the Bogan. Muirhead and Whiting sent to examine the dry channel of the river. Search extended to the plains of the Lachlan. Camp of Natives. Pass the night in a hollow without water. View towards Mount Granard. A second night without water. Awoke by the forest on fire. Interview with three natives. Roots of trees sucked by the natives. Horses reach the camp with great difficulty. Part of Mr. Cunningham's coat found.

Continue along the Bogan, guided by the natives. Their caution in approaching the haunts of others. Their accurate knowledge of localities. Introduced to the Bungan tribe. Superiority of the King how displayed. Dangerous mistake. A true savage. The king of the Bogan takes his leave. Kangaroos numerous. Beauty of the shrubs. Dangerous consequence of surprising a native. Wounded native led to our camp. His confidence gained by kind treatment. Oxley's Tableland. Mr. Larmer's excursion to it. Narrow escape from the loss of the cattle. The party followed by a clamorous tribe. A parley. Their various complexions. Decorous behaviour. Naked plains. A native visitor. Soft earth of the plains. Ride to the Darling. The water sweet. The party encamps on a favourable position on the river.

Rain at last. Stockade erected. Named Fort Bourke. Visited by the natives. Mortality among them from smallpox. Results of the journey. Friendly disposition of a native. Boats launched. Presents to natives. They become importunate. We leave the depot and embark in the boats. Slow progress down the river. Return to the depot. Natives in canoes. Excursion with a party on horseback. A perfumed vegetable. Interview with natives. Present them with tomahawks. Unsuccessful search for Mr. Hume's marked tree. Ascend D'Urban's group. Promising view to the southward. A burnt scrub full or spinous dead boughs. A night without water. Return to the camp. The party proceeds down the Darling. Surprise a party of natives. New acacia. Mr. Hume's tree found. Fall in the Darling. Surprised by a party of natives. Emu killed by the dogs. Dunlop's range. Meet the Puppy tribe. Ascend Dunlop's range. High land discovered to the westward. Grass pulled and piled in ricks by the natives. Hills beyond the Darling. Convenient refraction. Native huts. Interview with the Red tribe. The Puppy tribe. How to avoid the sandy hills and soft plains. Macculloch's range. Visit a hill beyond the Darling. View from its summit.

Natives of the Spitting tribe. Singular behaviour on the discharge of a pistol. Conjectures. Second interview with the Spitting tribe. Strange ceremonial. Amusing attempts to steal, or diamond cut diamond. Dry channel of a stream. Tombs on the sandhills. White balls on tombs. Australian shamrock. Old canoe. Dry state of the country. Danger and difficulty of watching the cattle on the riverbanks. Uniform character of the Darling. The Grenadier bird. The Doctor and the natives. A range discovered by refraction. Dance of natives. A lake. Tombs of a tribe. Plan of natives' hut. Method of making cordage. The tall native's first visit. Channel of a small stream. The carts beset on the journey by very covetous natives. Mischievous signals. Cattle worn out. The tall man again. Approach of the Fishing tribe. Covetous old man. Conduct on witnessing the effect of a shot. The party obliged to halt from the weak state of the cattle. The natives very troublesome. Singular ceremonies. Ichthyophagi. Their manner of fishing. The burning brand. A tribe from the south-east. The old man appears again with a tribe from the south-west. Small streams from the west. The Darling turns southward. Resolve to return. Description of the country on the banks of the river. The men at the river obliged to fire upon the natives. Steady conduct of the party. Origin of the dispute. Narrow escape of Muirhead. Treacherous conduct of the aborigines. Melancholy reflections.

Commencement of the homeward journey. The cattle begin to fail. Halt and endeavour to lighten the carts. Rain comes on. Native conversations at a distance. Party separated to watch the cattle. Illness of some of the men from scurvy. Mr. Larmer's excursion into the country to the eastward. The Spitting tribe again. Return of Mr. Larmer, who had found water and inhabitants. A day's halt. Ride to Greenough's group. View from the summit. Barter with natives beyond the Darling. The Red tribe again. New species of caper eaten by the natives. Importunity of the Red tribe. Cross the Darling. View from the summit of Mount Macpherson. Rain again threatens. Absence of kangaroos and emus on the Darling. The Occa tribe again. Hints to Australian sportsmen. Meet the Fort Bourke tribe. Mr. Hume's tree. Return to Fort Bourke. Description of that position. Saltness of the Darling. The plains. The rivers supported by springs. Traces of floods. Extent of the basin of this river. Its breadth. Surface of the plains. Geology of the Darling. Woods. Gum acacia abundant. Grasses. General character of the natives. Their means of existence. Nets used by them. Superstitions. Condition of the females. Singular habits of a rat. Security of a species of ants. Birds. Fishes. Apprehended scarcity of water on leaving the Darling. Six of the cattle dead from exhaustion. Rest of two days at Fort Bourke. Visited by the Fort Bourke tribe.

The party leaves the Darling. Natives approach the camp during the night. Scared by a rocket. Discovery of a Caper-tree. The kangaroos and emus driven away by the natives. Difference between the plains of the Darling and Bogan. Extreme illness of one of the party. New Year's range. A thunderstorm. Three natives remind us of the man wounded. Another man of the party taken ill. Acacia pendula. Beauty of the scenery. Mr. Larmer traces Duck Creek up to the Macquarie. A hot wind. Talambe of the Bogan Tribe. Tombs of Milmeridien. Another bullock fails. Natives troublesome. Successful chase of four kangaroos. Natives of the Bogan come up. Water scarce. Two red-painted natives. Uncertainty of Mr. Cunningham's fate. Mr. Larmer overtakes the party. Result of his survey. Send off a courier to Sydney. Marks of Mr. Dixon. Tandogo Creek and magnificent pine forest. Hervey's range in sight. Improved appearance of the country. Meet the natives who first accompanied us. Arrive at a cattle station. Learn that Mr. Cunningham had been killed by natives. Cookopie ponds. Goobang Creek. Character of the river Bogan. Native inhabitants on its banks. Their mode of fishing. Manners and customs. Prepare to quit the party. The boats. Plan of encampment. Mount Juson. Leave the party and mark a new line of ascent to Hervey's range. Get upon a road. Arrive at Buree.

...

BAROMETRICAL JOURNAL KEPT DURING THE JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES IN WINTER 1835.

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LETTER FROM CAPTAIN FORBES, 39TH FOOT, COMMANDANT OF THE MOUNTED POLICE.

REPORT FROM LIEUTENANT ZOUCH, MOUNTED POLICE, RESPECTING THE DEATH OF MR. CUNNINGHAM.

...

PLATE 1: PORTRAIT OF CAMBO, AN ABORIGINAL NATIVE. Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Foggo lithographer. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty.

TEMPORARY GUNYA OR HUT, SET UP FOR PASSING A NIGHT IN THE BUSH.

FOSSIL SHELLS OF THE HUNTER.

PLATE 2: FIGURES 1 AND 2: Megadesmus globosus. J.D. Sowerby del. et lithographer. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty.

PLATE 3: FIGURE 1: Megadesmus antiquatus. FIGURE 2: Megadesmus laevis. FIGURE 3: Megadesmus cuneatus. J.D. Sowerby del. et lithographer. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty.

PLATE 4: FIGURES 1 AND 2: Isocardia ? FIGURES 3 AND 4: Trochus oculus. FIGURE 5: Littorina filosa, FROM PEEL'S RIVER.

PLATE 5: BURNING HILL OF WINGEN, AS IN FEBRUARY 1829. Plan and Distant View from Station. From Nature and on Zinc by Major T.L. Mitchell. Day & Haghe Lithographers to the Queen. London, Published by T. & W. Boone.

MOUNT MURULLA , AND PART OF LIVERPOOL RANGE, FROM WINGEN.

KANGAROO AS SEEN IN THE LONG GLASS.

PLATE 6: FIGURE 1: Grites peelii, OR COD-PERCH. FIGURE 2: Plotosus tandanus, OR EEL-FISH. T.L.M. del. A. Picken Lith. London, Published by T. & W. Boone.

A SNAKE, AS COOKED ON THE FIRE BY THE NATIVES.

PLATE 7: VIEW OF NUNDEWAR RANGE, WHERE THE PARTY COULD NOT CROSS IT. Major T.L. Mitchell del. A. Picken Lith. Day & Haghe Lithographers to the Queen. London, Published by T. & W. Boone.

PLATE 8: THE PIC OF TANGULDA, FROM THE WEST. Polygonum juncium. Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. Published by T. and W. Boone, London.

NUNDEWAR RANGE FROM THE WEST, 3RD JANUARY. Left to right: Mount Riddell, Courada, Mount Lindesay, Kapular, Mount Forbes.

A CROW DURING EXTREME DROUGHT. A thirsty crow, as seen through a glass.

NUNDEWAR RANGE FROM THE NORTH-WEST, 12TH JANUARY. Left to right: Mount Albuera, Mount Riddell, Mount Frazer, Courada.

NONDESCRIPT FRUIT FROM SNODGRASS LAGOON. Natural size of the fruit.

PLATE 9: Cernua bidyana, OR BIDYAN RUFFE. T.L.M. del. A. Picken Lith. Day & Haghe Lithographers to the Queen. London, Published by T. & W. Boone.

SKETCH EXPLANATORY OF A USEFUL PRINCIPLE IN EXPLORATION. North of the Namoi River, a line from B through A to C on the junction of the Gwydir and Darling Rivers. The situation of this junction afforded a curious illustration of the principle which guided me in choosing my route from the great Namoi Lagoon on the 14th of January. Having been then between two rivers I chose the bearing of 20 degrees west of north, as given by the bearing of the high land in the opposite direction, and this junction was now found to be exactly in that line. That high land was a projecting point of a range; the course of rivers is conformable to the angles of such ranges, and therefore the rivers on each side of me were not so likely to come in my way in the direction of AC, as in any other direction I could have chosen. The chance of finding firm ground in that direction was also better, as the rivers were only likely to continue separate by the protrusion of some remote offset of ground between them, from the salient feature B.

COURADA FROM THE PLAINS. A REMARKABLE HILL, AS IT APPEARS FROM THE NORTH.

BOAT-CARRIAGE USED IN THE TWO LAST EXPEDITIONS.

PLATE 10: INACCESSIBLE VALLEY OF THE RIVER GROSE. Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. Published by T. and W. Boone, London.

PLATE 11: MAP OF MR. CUNNINGHAM'S TRACK WHEN LOST IN THE WOODS. Sketch showing the Route of Mr. Cunningham as traced by Assistant Surveyor Larmer. Published by T. and W. Boone, 29 New Bond Street.

PLATE 12: FIRST MEETING WITH THE CHIEF OF THE BOGAN TRIBE. Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Barnard Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty. Published by T. and W. Boone, London.

PLATE 13: PORTRAIT OF A NATIVE OF THE BOGAN. Major T.L. Mitchell del. G. Foggo Lith. J. Graf Printer to Her Majesty.

OXLEY'S TABLE-LAND FROM THE NORTH-WEST.

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