Read Ebook: The Standard Electrical Dictionary A Popular Dictionary of Words and Terms Used in the Practice of Electrical Engineering by Sloane T O Conor Thomas O Conor

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They must then be screwed down firmly, and by means of a file worked by both hands up and down their length a good surface may be readily obtained. If the iron is let into the bed this filing will abrade the wood work, which is the reason why we prefer screwing it on the surface. This method produces a very excellent and durable lathe bed, and it will be free from much of the tremor which is so disagreeable while working upon a lathe entirely of cast iron unless the bed of the latter and the standards are more substantial than is usual with small lathes.

The standards supporting the axle of the fly wheel and bed may in like manner be of wood or iron. Even when the bed is of iron these may be of hard wood, although it is customary to make them of the same material as the bed. If of beech, oak, or mahogany, as in some of Holtzapffel's best lathes with iron beds, the tremor before alluded to will be considerably lessened. Iron is nevertheless very neat, and is quite the fashion with the majority of makers, but is too often faulty in respect of solidity.

The standards as a rule are too slight, an elegant pattern being studied to the sacrifice of substance and weight, The bed and stand of a lathe cannot be too strong and stiff.

The fly wheel should be sufficiently heavy and have three speed grooves on the rim and two additional ones to produce a slow motion, which is required for turning metal. The latter may be worked with ease in this way when the article to be turned is small, but if heavy work is likely to be encountered the back geared lathe, to be hereafter described, must be substituted, and the slide rest will then also replace the hand tools. The crank axle is generally supported by two centre screws, the points being hardened, and also the ends of the axles, which are accordingly made of steel, and the holes for the centre screws neatly drilled and countersunk.

This is however not the most perfect method, and as we are speaking of better class lathes, as well as those of more common and cheaper make, we must by no means omit to speak of a very superior way of fitting the crank axle. The latter must be turned at both ends, the wheel bored and slipped on, and keyed in its place.

In whatever position the lathe may be set up let the rise of the treadle be moderate. It is exceedingly disagreeable to work at a lathe where the rise of the foot board is so great as to bring the knee into contact with the lathe bed, a consummation not infrequent in country made ones.

We may now suppose the reader the happy possessor of a well made foot lathe, long or short in bed, high or low in poppet, according to his need, but, of whatever size, carefully made and firmly fixed in a well-lighted place, and if possible on the basement floor--an upstairs workshop is objectionable owing to the certain vibration of a boarded floor. He will now require certain chucks and tools, many of the former of which he will have to make for himself.

CHUCKS.

Fig. 24 is to some extent self-centering. A piece of wood hollowed out conically has three nails, or three-square saw-files so placed within the cone as to present three sharp edges inwards. Any piece of wood, if not too hard, will, if placed with one end in the chuck, while the back centre is screwed against the other, centre itself in some part of this cone, and, being at the same time held by the three sharp edges, will necessarily revolve in the chuck. There are many cases in which even in this rough form such a chuck will prove useful; but if it were cast in metal and the three edges formed by slips of steel, and the whole accurately turned, it would be a very efficient and good self-centering chuck. In its more common form it is largely used by the turners of mop and broom handles, who work rapidly and cannot afford to waste time in chucking their work. With the above, the lathe, if worked by steam or water power, is not even stopped,--the screw of the back centre has a quick thread, so that a single turn to or fro fixes or releases the work; and thus, one handle being finished, another piece takes its place in the chuck, is fixed by a half-turn of the back screw, and being set in rapid motion is turned and completed by a practised hand in a couple of minutes or less.

Fig. 25 represents another useful chuck, generally of boxwood, called the barrel stave chuck. It is turned conical, the largest part being towards the mandrel; it is then wholly or partially drilled through, after which saw-cuts are made longitudinally, as in the drawing. These allow a certain degree of expansion when a piece of work is fitted into it, and it is tightened round the latter by driving on a ring of iron or brass. This ring is sometimes cut with a coarse thread inside, and a similar thread being chased on the outside of the chuck, it is screwed upon the cone instead of requiring to be driven by blows of a hammer. One important use of this chuck is to re-mount in the lathe, for ornamentation by the eccentric cutter or other apparatus, any finished work that could not be readily chucked in any other manner, or to hold rings requiring to be turned on the inside. Such articles will, from the nature of this chuck, be truly centred at once; and their exterior parts will not be liable to injury, as they would be by being driven into an ordinary chuck hollowed out to receive them.

Another useful chuck for turning short pieces of metal such as bolts and binding screws, and which is in a great measure self centering is made of cast iron, and is usually called the dog-nose chuck, represented in Fig. 26. This is made with movable jaw hinged, as more plainly seen in B. The screw clamps these jaws firmly together, and any small piece of work is thus securely held. The centering, however, is not accurate, though sufficiently so for many purposes. The die chuck is accurately self-centering, and although somewhat expensive, is a valuable addition to the lathe. This chuck consists, first of all, of a socket for screw to fit the mandrel, and round flat plate of brass cast in one piece, as in Fig. 28. This must be carefully turned and faced in the lathe. Two pieces of iron or brass are then screwed to the face, as B, B, 28A, leaving a space between, the sides of which are to be truly parallel. These pieces may either be chamfered to form V-pieces, or may be rectangular on their inner edges; at C, C, a part of each is cut away, and the outer or back plate is also filed down to receive the small plates D, D. E shows a groove in which a screw lies, half of which has a right and half a left handed thread; this is shown in Fig. 29. It will be evident that if this screw is placed in the groove of the bottom plate, and its ends pass through the pieces D, D, which are screwed to the plates, it can revolve in its bearings, but will have no endwise motion; the collar F resting in a recess under the top plate D. This screw passes through a projection in the back of the pair of dies, which projection also goes into the same slot in the back plate in which the screw works when turned by the key . The above being nicely fitted, the dies moving evenly but stiffly in their places, the plain top is screwed on, keeping all firmly together. This plate has a long opening or slot , through which the jaws of the dies and part of the screw are visible. The ends of the screw should not project, as any such projection is calculated to bring to grief the knuckles of the turner--a consideration worth attention in every form of chuck--the squared ends of the screw lie in a recess in the small plates, as shown in the section of one of these plates . Into this recess the key fits over the screw end; and by turning this the dies are simultaneously moved asunder, or closer together so as to grasp centrally as in the jaws of a vice, any small article, such as a screw or short rod of metal placed between them, A similarly contrived chuck is often used under the name of a universal chuck, for holding pieces of large diameter, and is very useful for taking pieces of ivory which have to be hollowed or otherwise worked, as will hereafter be detailed. In this case the jaws may be semicircular in form, as Fig. 30.

Fig. 31A represents the shell of the chuck with milled bosses for the fingers. The core, B, is threaded and receives a steel wire spring which is inserted into the rear of each jaw, so that when relieved from pressure, the jaws open automatically.

With this brief explanation, the operation of the chuck can be easily comprehended. These chucks are made of two sizes, one with an opening of three-eighths of an inch, and the other of three-sixteenths of an inch, and they can be made of larger sizes. Patented by L. H. Olmsted, Stamford, Connecticut, United States America.

Another chuck of self centering design, has likewise appeared in the periodical above named, into which it appears to have been copied from an American paper.

Another arrangement of the adjustable chuck is shown in Fig. 31C, which is a front view, and Fig. 31D, a longitudinal section of the same. A, is the body of the chuck, the front part of which is formed with a rim or flange, in which are three radial recesses having fitted therein the sliding jaws, B. In the rear of each jaw is a bearing, in which is fitted a pin carrying a small lever, C, the front end of which is rounded, as shown in the section, and enters a slot made in the jaw, B; so that when the levers are moved outwards they cause the jaws to contract or move towards the centre. The back part of the body, A, of the chuck is threaded, and on this part is fitted a collar, D, and in front of this is a sliding collar, E, which is connected to the collar, D, by means of a pin which enters a groove formed in the latter. The sliding collar is prevented from turning round on the body, A, by means of a feather, which works in a longitudinal groove formed in the inner circumference of the collar. Three inclined planes, F, are formed on the periphery of the collar, E, which extend to the backward ends of the levers, C, so that by moving the collar to and fro, the jaws, B, are caused to contract or expand, according to the size of the article to be grasped. A short cylindrical block, G, made of a conical figure internally is fitted loosely within the chuck, A, and serves to centre the end of a drill or other short article, but may be removed when it is desired to pass a rod or other article through the body of the chuck. To provide for the easy turning of the collar, D, it is shown as fitted with a hand wheel, H. With this arrangement of the several parts, the jaws of the chuck readily adapt themselves to drill or bit shanks as well as to articles of parallel form, or of a tapered or irregular figure.

The chucks last named belong to the class of compound or mechanical tools; and though their usefulness is beyond question, they need not be considered absolutely necessary, as the work which they are designed to facilitate can be and often is done without their aid. Indeed, success in the art of turning by no means depends absolutely upon the possession of expensive apparatus, and the amateur or mechanic will find the advantage of ransacking his own brain for the devising of divers makeshifts and off-hand contrivances--especially in this chuck-making department.

Among the simple expedients the following will be found well worthy of adoption.

A, Fig. 32, is a simple flange or flat brass plate with a boss behind, similar to a small face plate, and is to be turned up, drilled, and tapped to fit the mandrel. If the latter has a diameter of 3/4 of an inch, a few of these brass pieces should be cast from a set of wooden patterns ranging from two to three or four inches across the diameter of the plate, and, after having been fitted to the mandrel and turned, four holes, countersunk for wood screws, should be made, as shown in the sketch. These are intended to do away with the necessity of boring out and tapping each individual wooden chuck. They can be readily attached to any piece of wood by four screws, and a few minutes will be sufficient to adapt the same to any required purpose. A flat piece of board, for instance, itself too thin, or of too soft substance to permit of its being attached to the mandrel in the ordinary way, can thus be made into a temporary face plate, or a ring cut out of it, or any desired operation performed upon it. Indeed, these socket pieces will be found serviceable on many occasions, and will do away with the necessity of a large set of cup chucks.

To hold rings and washers a tapering mandrel, Fig. 35, is used; and of these it is necessary to keep a few different sizes to suit different diameters. These may be made of iron or brass if for permanent use, but box or other hard wood is a ready substitute, and may be turned down for smaller work when the surface gets spoiled by use. The expanding mandrel, "Hicks' patent," which will be treated of hereafter, is a convenient substitute for the simple conical form here spoken of; and in manufactories where large numbers of mandrels have to be kept of various sizes, a great saving of time, money, and labour is effected by their use. For amateurs and artisans in a smaller way of business the simpler form is generally sufficient. A slight modification is here appended, by which the common form may sometimes be made more efficient in the holding a ring tightly while undergoing the operation of turning, and this can be made applicable to metal mandrels, though specially intended for wooden ones. Fig. 36.

Having had occasion to speak of tapping chucks of metal to fit the mandrel, it will be as well to speak here of the requisite tools for effecting this.

The upright drill should always have a place in the workshop. It is much easier to drill with it than in the lathe, and the mandrel will thus be saved considerably. The latter should never be used except for light work. A variety of drilling apparatus will hereafter be described in this series, so that we need not now write more upon this part of our subject.

Manuel de Tourneur par H. Bergeron.

Amongst the various devices connected with the lathe, many of which, even as makeshifts, are valuable to the turner, is one not generally known for keeping up the tension of the lathe cord in whatever groove of the fly wheel or pulley it may be placed. The plan is not more ingenious than practical, and the writer is acquainted with one workman, a gasfitter by trade, who has had it in constant use for many years. Directly over the mandrel pulley is another of larger diameter, in which are two grooves of equal depth, fig. 40. This upper pulley is suspended on a movable arm, D, which is pivoted at E, and kept up by an india-rubber spring, F, or, as in the original plan , by a cord passing over a pulley, and having a heavy weight attached, as shown by the dotted lines. In the fig. A represents the fly wheel, B the mandrel, C the upper pulley. The lathe cord is very long, and passes upwards from A, over the upper pulley in groove 1, down again and round the mandrel, a second time over groove 2 of the upper pulley and down to the fly wheel. The tension of the cord is thus always the same, and is regulated by the spring or weight. If the cord is slipped to a smaller part of the lathe pulley, the slack is instantaneously taken up by the descent of the weight, and rising of the arm D, which in like manner yields to allow the cord to be slipped to the larger groove of the mandrel pulley.

There are many other useful contrivances for chucking work in the lathe, a few of which will be noticed on a future page. The main thing to be attended to is the holding securely as well as centrally the object to be turned. If this is attained, the precise form of chuck is of little importance, and it matters not whether it be made of metal or wood. The latter has indeed, in some respects, an advantage resulting from its elasticity and the ease with which its form is modified.

HAND TURNING OF WOOD.

It would be invidious and perhaps rather unfair in this little work to send the reader to any particular lathe-maker. There are several good and two or three first-class ones in London, and if prices range high, the work is at any rate of undeniable excellence.

The best advice to those of slender means, and who, therefore, vastly predominate, is to sacrifice all else to the mandrel and collar. The latter may be bought at from twenty to thirty shillings, ready for mounting in detached wooden headstocks, and will be far superior to any that an ordinary smith can produce. In this case, the two poppets that carry the mandrel and centre screw should be connected together by a block of wood between them, which latter may be rounded off and shaped to something near the form of a cast-iron headstock.

The only care necessary in mounting such a mandrel, will be to keep the axial line parallel to the lathe-bed, and directly over the centre of the latter. Whether the mandrel is thus a separate purchase, as may happen from necessity, or obtained as part of the lathe, and fitted in a cast-iron headstock, it should certainly be hardened, and also the collar, if of steel. Both will take a higher polish for this process, and will run easier in consequence. The cost of such a mandrel is rather greater, because many warp or split in the process, and have to be thrown aside; and the labour of grinding mandrel and collar to an exact fit, is considerably increased. The gain, however, is greater than the loss to the purchaser, and the extra outlay must not, therefore, be grudged. It is very annoying to find a conical mandrel worn down by the collar after a twelvemonths' work; for a collar is thus formed on the conical part, so that it cannot be tightened up by the back screw.

HOLLOWED WORK.

It is now necessary to speak of hollowing out wood for the purpose of making boxes, cup chucks, &c., and the latter, which may be made in any quantity, and of all sizes, will afford excellent practice in this part of the turner's art. The majority of work of this kind is done rather by scraping or fretting out than by cutting; side tools of the forms of Figs. 51 and 56 being used for the purpose. These however, are specially adapted for ivory and hard woods, the grain of which, being very compact and close, is not torn out in shreds by the action of such tools, as would be the case with softer woods. Where the latter material is used in quantity, as in the manufacture of wooden bowls, hook tools, like Fig. 57, are made use of, which cut on their upper edges. These are exceedingly difficult to use, though the practised hands of those brought up to the art, make them cut with a surprising ease and rapidity--fairly surrounding the lathe with a ceaseless cloud of fine shavings removed in the progress of the work. The difficulty experienced in the use of these tools is not confined to the novice, for the majority of turners accustomed to hard wood often cut a sorry figure in the manipulation of softer material with the aid of the tools in question. The hard and soft wood turners form, in point of fact, two distinct branches of the trade. We have in part anticipated this section, by speaking of the making a wooden chuck when describing the use of the metal chuck with taper screw. We shall, therefore, proceed to describe the best method of turning a plain wooden box with cover, but not screwed; the latter being reserved for more extended notice hereafter. The best material to work upon is sound Turkey boxwood, and care must be taken that it is quite dry and well seasoned, or, after it is worked up with, it may be, great care and trouble, the box will split, or the cover become so loose as to fall off, either fatality being sufficiently vexatious. We may mention, in passing, that hard woods of all descriptions may be had in large or small quantities of Messrs. Fauntleroy and Co., 110, Bunhill-row, Finsbury, or of Jacques and Sons, Covent-garden. Most of the lathe-makers also supply it, especially Holtzapffel and Co., of Charing-cross, but the first-named is a large dealer, wholesale and retail, and his charges are moderate.

Now Messrs. Mundy and Berrie.

Supposing a selection made of size proportionate to that of the intended box, including cover and a tolerable margin for waste and accidents, proceed as before to rough it down between two centres and thus to reduce it to a cylindrical form--there is, however, no occasion to use the chisel at present, as we only need a rough cylinder. Remove this from the lathe, and if you have no brass cup chuck into which you can fit it, proceed to make one out of a piece of beech, ash or, if you have plenty, boxwood. Do not hurry the work, but cut the chuck out neatly, screw and fit it, as previously directed, on the nose of the mandrel. We shall suppose it as yet merely a short neat cylindrical block, quite solid. Place the rest with the tee across the end of the piece of wood, the top edge a little below the centre . For the latter select one of the three following--either will answer well--58, 59, 60. With one or the other drill a hole in the centre, keeping the tool quite horizontal across the rest. Enlarge this hole by a left side tool, working from the centre of the piece towards the outside, not taking the whole depth at once, but a quarter or half an inch at a time. You must hollow it out about one inch, and see how nicely you can fit the hollow to the size of the piece you are going to turn. You will, of course, have squared up one or both ends of the latter, which must now be driven tightly into the hollow chuck. If you squared the ends of the cylinder correctly and left also the bottom of your chuck level and true, you will be gratified by seeing the piece run evenly at once.

Fig. 61 shows a section of the chuck with the piece to be turned fitted inside it. Now take the gouge and chisel and reduce the piece to a plain cylinder, and take special care to square up the outer end. This may be done by the aid of a carpenter's chisel held across the rest, like the side-tool. If the end is much out of truth you had better use first the round-ended tool, Fig. 60, but if you have worked carefully from the commencement this will be unnecessary.

The cover of the box must now be put on, the lathe set in motion, and the outside, and also the top of the cover, carefully turned and finished. If the box is to be cylindrical, care should be taken that it is truly so, and that the angle formed by the junction of the top and sides is sharp. If sand-paper is used to finish the work, the edges will be rounded and the workmanlike appearance spoiled. If, therefore, the article is made of box or other hard close-grained wood, this finishing-off may be done with a carpenter's chisel held so as to act as a scraper. The turning chisel will answer the same purpose, but it is a pity to spoil the edge, which should be always preserved keen and fit for use. If the box is made of soft wood, scraping will not answer; the turning chisel must then be made use of, held as previously, described. If the cylindrical form is not proposed, the sides of the box must be left thicker, and after the cover is fitted on the outside may be moulded by the gouge and chisel, and tools like 60 and 68 to 70, to any desired pattern. The only thing remaining to be done is to cut off the box with the parting tool, the same precautions being observed which we spoke of in separating the cover. If there should be any defect in the bottom after the work is detached, the box must be placed in a cup chuck turned to receive it, and the above defects removed.

In hollowing out a piece of solid ivory or similar costly material, it would be exceedingly wasteful if the central part were removed as in a common box, by being reduced to small chips. It is possible to remove the whole interior in a solid block, and with exceedingly trifling loss of material. This is effected by means of side parting tools, 71, 72, 73. A common parting tool is first used and a groove cut therewith in the face of the block to be turned. Fig. 74 represents this face 75; the section after the groove is cut the depth of the box required. The shaded part in the centre represents the part to be removed. The smallest parting tool, Fig. 73, is now introduced, the back of the tool being laid across the rest, so that the crook takes a perpendicular position, A, B, Fig. 74. When at the bottom of the groove the hook is turned to the left, so that it may cut a groove underneath the block, until stopped by its shank. It is then withdrawn and Fig. 72, and subsequently Fig. 71 introduced, and used in a similar way. In Fig. 76 the black line shows the tool in position, with the under cutting done by it. The sizes are thus increased until the last tool removes the block entire.

The side parting tools are sometimes inserted in the centre of the work, a hole being made for their introduction, they then cut from within outwards. In this case, however, instead of a solid piece a thick ring of the material is detached.

We now propose to describe the method of turning a round ball or globe, and, to make the work more interesting, it shall contain a small box. The first thing necessary is to decide upon the diameter. In the present case let it be an inch and a half. Turn a cylinder of boxwood a little exceeding this, and cut off from it rather more than an inch and a half in length. The excess is merely to allow for waste. You will thus have a cylinder whose diameter equals its length. Before removing it from the lathe, mark its centre by a groove with a point tool--subdivide the outer spaces with five lines, and from the latter remove the corners of the piece, thus reducing it to the form 77. Test the length and breadth by the callipers and take care that the ends of the cylinder are at right angles to the sides. Now place the piece in the chuck in the position shown in the figure, that is, at right angles to its original position in the lathe. It must be tested as to truth by holding a point tool on the central line E, F. If correctly placed this will only make a dot when the lathe is put in motion. If the piece does not lie evenly the point of the tool will make a small circle--it must then be corrected with a light tap or two, until it runs evenly.

If the inside of the chuck is rubbed with chalk the work will be less liable to slip. The following operation, however, must be conducted very gently and with exceeding care, or a satisfactory result will not be produced. It will be observed that the central line having been marked or cut upon the side of the cylinder is necessarily a circle, and its revolution on its axis forms a sphere.

In order to obviate the difficulty of following the diametrical line with the cutting tool, the following contrivance has been suggested to the author by one who has followed lathe work as a profession for many years, and is an adept at the art. The lathe band is to be slightly slackened by partial untwisting , if of catgut, so that it will carry round the pulley, if desired, but will slip if the hand is placed on the latter. Thus, the tool may be applied, and a light cut taken, and the work instantly stopped for examination without stopping the lathe, as the flywheel continues to revolve all the time. This examination can be repeated, if necessary, every few seconds, by merely placing the hand on the pulley, and in this way the work being carried on little by little, a good result is attainable with comparatively little difficulty.

The best position for the rest during the above operations will be across the face of the work, as in hollowing out boxes, working carefully, little by little, from centre to circumference. Towards the finish a scraper should be used, the common carpenter's chisel being as good a tool as any. Now to proceed with the box. Before removing the finished ball from the chuck, bore it through with tool Fig. 59, enlarge with Fig. 51, and make the hole conical, unscrew the chuck, with the ball remaining in it, and put on another with a piece of boxwood large enough to make a plug to fit this hole. This plug, when fitted, is to be hollowed out, and converted into a box, like Fig. 79. The latter, when put in place, must fit so neatly that only a light circle shows its position. To conceal it still more completely, a series of circles are to be set at each of the six sides of the ball, as shown at Fig. 80. To remove the box, the thumb is placed at the small end, and pressure made. This forms a neat pocket needle-case, and may be made of ivory as a present to your lady-love.

There is no practical difficulty likely to be met with in the above after the round ball is itself made, unless it may arise in respect of the conical hole. Let this be turned out as directed, until at the furthest end it will just allow a gauge, like the annexed figure, 80A, to pass through it.

Having also gauged the large end of the hole to the desired size, take care to finish the side evenly from one to the other. The gauge may be a disc of tin on a wire, or, still better, a short cylinder of box wood, on a similar handle, as there will be a little difficulty in feeling whether the disc is placed at right angles to the axis of the hole. Unless, however, you desire to work to a pre-arranged exact measurement, the above precautions will scarcely be necessary, inasmuch as the hole is first bored, and the conical plug afterwards fitted to it. The ball may, therefore, be taken from the chuck, each end of the bore measured, and the plug gauged at each end by the callipers, and turned to an exact fit.

CUTTING SCREWS.

One great difficulty in cutting the screw-threads to the top of a box, or the inside of its cover, arises from the necessity for stopping short, and removing the tool instantly as soon as it touches the shoulder, or the top of the cover. The latter should be made rather deeper than is necessary, so that there may be a turn or two of screw to spare. This will give more room for the play and removal of the inside chasing tool.

The ordinary form of the latter is as shown in Fig. 87, the part under the plane upper surface being either slightly hollowed or flat, generally the former, from having been cut by a revolving cylindrical hub.

Now, although this form may be suitable for outside screw tools, which have to work on cylindrical pieces, it does not appear equally suitable for inside tools, which are to act on concave work. The writer of this article has experimented upon many patterns of chasing tool, and has found it perfectly easy to chase an inside thread with an ordinary grooved tap, which seldom makes a false cut, or crosses the threads. From this the idea naturally arose of a convex edged tool for inside chasing, and a concave one for outside work, as Fig. 89.

"I think the plan to be described will produce to a certainty any required number of screws and turns to the inch. The screws are entirely cut with a common comb tool, but started by a revolving cutter set to the required angle, and applied firmly to the work, on the T-rest. I call it 'the universal screw guide tool,' contrived and made by myself, and I believe will prove as useful to others as it has to me: the drawing will almost explain the tool. The cutter, A, is 9/16ths of an inch in diameter, turned to a cutting edge, and finely tempered. The stem, B, in which it revolves, is round, and fits into the shoe, C, having a graduated collar, D, in front of C, to set the cutter to the required pitch or angle, the set screw, E, makes it fast; having turned a piece of rod, of brass, iron, or steel, a little above the size necessary, and supposing a quadruple screw is to be cut having ten turns to the inch, there would, of course, be forty threads when complete; if one of these four can be truly traced, the comb tool will easily follow by inserting the outside tooth, either right or left hand, as found convenient, in the line traced, when the other three will soon appear with perfect accuracy, provided the first one exactly corresponded to five points of the comb, which is easily accomplished after a few trials, and if not successful at first, can be removed by a dead flat file several times, without reducing the rod too much. When found to exactly fit the five points, the cutter may be applied with more force to leave a good chase for the comb. The T-rest requires a smooth surface for the shoe, C, to slide freely on, and to be set parallel with the work, and the tool held at a right angle as it proceeds along the rest, or the lines formed would be of unequal distance. After a little experience it will be found to work with beautiful accuracy, and for those who have not screw-guide mandrels, and are not practised hands at flying common screws, it will be found a great assistance, as it sets to anything. I described only the quadruple, but the same rule applies to all quick screws; for a double the chase must correspond to three points, and so on for any number, that is, one more point of the comb than the number of screws to be cut, and for a common one the chase must fit the comb altogether."

This doubt seems to mar the invention. It is, however, on the whole a good design.

There should be a collar or shoulder to this mandrel, the same as at K in the other figure.

In the "Manual Bergeron" is an ingenious contrivance, by an amateur, which is worth notice, although unsuited for any work where extreme accuracy of pitch is required in the screw. The following, Fig. 93, is a description:--The mandrel is made to traverse in its bearings, as before detailed in this series, but instead of its motion being governed by guide hubs, it is dependent on the action of a pair of differential pulleys, B. A bent lever, C, is pivoted at E to the face of the poppet, having a bit of hardened steel fitted to work in a semicircular groove in the mandrel itself, and so arranged that on raising the tail or long arm of the lever the mandrel is thrust forward from left to right, while a reverse action of this lever causes a similar movement in the opposite direction. The movement of the lever is thus regulated:--At the extreme end of the long arm is a pulley and hook, as shown in the drawing; the double, or differential pulley, is fixed to the end of the mandrel, and from the smaller part depends a cord which passes thence through the pulley on the lever, and is wound round the larger one on the mandrel when its end is secured. On the hook is hung a weight. It will be evident, on an inspection of the drawing, that on putting the lathe in motion the cord on the differential pulley will coil itself round the largest part of the same, and will draw up the end of the lever with a speed proportionate to the difference of diameter between the larger and smaller parts of the double pulley. The short end of the lever will at the same time with similar proportionate motion move the mandrel and work, and cause the fixed tool to cut a spiral or screw thread on the latter--a good deal of ingenuity is displayed in the above, and it has the advantage of being easily fitted up, but it is evident that some alterations and additions would be required to adapt it to any other use but that specified. A contrivance similar to Fig. 94, may in some cases be a sufficient makeshift, when a more perfect one is not at hand. A screw is here cut on the outside of the chuck, and a kind of double tool is used, the tracer which is in contact with the guide thread being adjustable as to its length, and the cutting tool having a sidelong adjustment as well. The rest being placed between the connecting bar of the tool and the work, the former will be held with sufficient steadiness to enable the workman to traverse the whole easily by hand. The use of this tool is of course limited, but the plan is simple and fairly effective. The only really serviceable plan is the slide rest, to be hereafter described. But one other plan is here added, which is called "Healey's chuck." The description and sketch are from Holtzapffel's work, in which it was however copied from an older treatise. The author, it must be understood, has never seen the contrivance himself, and there is a fault in its principle of construction which must militate against its use except in a very limited degree. Since, however, Holtzapffel has considered it worthy of a place in his work, it is at any rate well to introduce it to the reader, especially as its defects will not be of great importance in tracing screws of half a dozen threads or so. The apparatus is represented in Fig. 95. in plan. C is the chuck which carries the work to be screwed, and T is the tool which lies upon R, R, the lathe rest, that is placed at right angles to the bearers and is always free to move in its socket S, as on a centre, because the binding screw is either loosened or removed. On the outside of the chuck C is cut a coarse guide screw which we will suppose to be right handed. The nut N, N, which fits the screw of the chuck is extended into a long arm, and the latter communicates with the lathe rest by the connecting rod C, C. As the lathe revolves backwards and forwards, the arm, N , traverses to and fro, as regards the chuck and work, and causes the lathe rest R, R, to oscillate in its socket S. The distance S, T being half S, R, a right hand screw of half the coarseness of the guide will be cut, or the tool being nearer to and on the other side of the centre, S, as in the dotted position T, a finer and left hand screw will be cut. The rod C, C, may be attached indifferently to any part of N, N, but the smallest change of the relation of S, T to S, R would mar the correspondence of screws cut at different periods, and therefore T and R should be united by a swiveljoint capable of being fixed at any part of the lathe rest R, R, which is omitted in Mr. Healey's perspective drawing of the apparatus.

This is one of the least perfect modes of originating screws, it should, therefore, be only applied to such as are very short, as, owing to the variation in the angular relation of the parts the motion given to the tool is not strictly constant nor equable. When in the midway position the several parts should lie exactly at right angles to each other in order as far as possible to avoid the error. The inequality of the threads is imperceptible in a short screw. A little modification of the screw-chuck of Healey would result in a more correct and serviceable arrangement.

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