Read Ebook: The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis Baron de Pollnitz Volume II Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia Thro' Germany Italy France Flanders Holland England &c. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief by P Llnitz Karl Ludwig Freiherr Von

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LETTER XXX 46

LETTER XL 203

LETTER XLI 228

LETTER XLII 261

LETTER XLIV 290

LETTER XLV 310

LETTER XLVI 325

LETTER L 364

LETTER LI 384

LETTER LII 394

LETTER LIV 449

INDEX 473

FOOTNOTES

MEMOIRS OF THE Baron de POLLNITZ.

I have been so long upon Churches, that 'tis high Time to shift the Scene. I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came, referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of ROME to another Opportunity.

His Table, which is commonly laid for a dozen Guests, is serv'd with what is grand and delicate. The Queen eats at her own little Table. People are seated at the King's Table without any Distinction of Rank, and he sits himself between the two Princes his Sons: He talks a great deal at his Meals, but the Tone of his Voice is not the most agreeable: His Conversation runs generally upon common Topicks, and falls very naturally upon his Misfortunes. All this Prince's Time is regularly divided; he rises early, devotes the Morning to his Business, hears Mass before Noon, when he goes to Dinner, and after sitting an Hour and half, or two Hours at Table, takes a Nap; and then, unless it be a Saint's Day, when he goes to Vespers, he walks out for the Air in some Garden or other without ROME, where he exercises himself on Horseback, or else diverts himself at Mall with his Sons, and his Gentlemen. In the Evening he returns to his Palace, and receives Visits from the Cardinals; at Ten o'Clock he goes to Supper, and at Midnight to Bed. During the Carnival he was almost every Day at the Opera, where his Box being very large, he used to sup with the Gentlemen and Ladies of his Court.

The third Class of Assemblies, where there is no Gaming, is generally at the House of some Prince; there I spend my Evenings with great Pleasure and Freedom; yet 'tis at one of the chief Houses of ROME, and really the Conversation is held in one of the finest Apartments in the World. I enter a very spacious magnificent Room, illuminated by a Couple of Wax Candles, so that if Custom had not taught me the way, I shou'd be at a Loss where to salute the Master and Mistress of the House: These two little Candles are plac'd in great Candlesticks of Silver upon old-fashion'd Stands of the same Metal. A Fountain of solid Silver, from which the Water spouts with a soft Murmur, invites me agreeably to Slumber; and it seems as if those in the Room were afraid to awake me; for they do nothing but whisper, and not a Mortal stirs from the Spot in which his good or ill Fortune plac'd him, because it wou'd be a Crime even to move a Chair; so that unless one had a speaking Trumpet, a Man must be content to converse with his next Neighbour. The Moment one enters the Room, two Pages in a black Livery attend us with Ice upon Salvers, but I don't accept it every time 'tis offer'd; for if I did, my Stomach wou'd have long ago been congeal'd like the frozen Ocean. This profound Silence, this murmuring Fountain, all these Cardinals, Prelates and Abbats, dress'd in Black; the two Wax Candles, giving a dismal Light; all this, I say, together, makes the Assembly look like Mutes posted to watch a Corpse, and I assure you that a Church-yard itself does not put me more in mind of Mortality. Nevertheless it sometimes happens that one or other of the Company raises his Voice, and relates the News of the Day. This is generally confin'd to what is done within the City; for what was said by the Pope, the contrary Effect of some Medicine, or else some Cardinal or Prelate, the Heat or Cold of the Weather, and the Age of the Moon, are the common Topics. And after having thoroughly canvass'd these momentous Subjects till Midnight, all the Company retires with their Heads as empty as their Stomachs.

Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so establish'd, yet there is not a City in the World where God is better serv'd, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this Purpose there's a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it almost every Day, who are there lodg'd and taken care of for three Days, and then dismiss'd with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv'd, the Men by the Cardinals, and the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of ROME.

When one Cardinal makes a Visit to another, the latter receives the Visitant at the Coach-door, and conducts him into the Chamber of Audience, where they both place themselves in Arm-chairs, under a Canopy; and after having been a few Minutes by themselves, the Gentlemen of the Cardinal that receives the Visit, bring them Ice, Chocolate, and Sweetmeats. When the Stranger goes away, the other waits on him to the Coach, lends him a Hand to put him into it, and even shuts the Coach-door. They give one another the Title of Eminency, but in all their Interviews there's a great Air of Constraint.

Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported to me; if I accuse wrongfully, 'tis owing to my Misinformation, or my Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can't define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I will now relate them to you as they pass'd this Year.

After a Criminal has confess'd, he receives the Sacraments, and the Comforters continue with him till the next Day. At Ten o'Clock, which is the Hour of Execution, he is convey'd in a Cart to the Gallows, to which he rides backwards, attended by two Priests, and two Comforters. When they are come to the fatal Place, they set him down out of the Cart before a Chapel to say his Prayers; and then they make him walk backwards to the Foot of the Ladder, which he always mounts with his Back to it; when the Hangman, who is at the Top of it, fastens the Rope about his Neck, and then leans with all his Weight upon his Shoulders, to put him out of his Pain. After he is expir'd, Masses are said in all the Churches, and even in the Pope's Chapel, for the Repose of his Soul; and for this End a Collection is made, to which the poorest People contribute something; at length, after he has hung four or five Hours, he is bury'd like another Man.

You'll excuse me, Sir, for concluding my Letter with such a dismal Subject: The Post is just going off, and I have many other Letters to write, so that I hope you won't take it ill that I add no more to this. I am, &c.

This being in all Appearance the last Letter I shall write to you from ROME, I shall now give you the best Answer I can to the Questions you put to me in your last.

i. e.

Every body allows he is an upright Man; but they don't look upon him as a Minister. He is so reserved, that 'tis quite disgusting; and when he grants any Favour, he does it in so strange a Manner, that they who receive it are sorry they were beholden to him. I question whether he will have very many humble Servants left, when his Uncle dies.

I cannot leave FLORENCE, without thinking it my Duty to mention some Persons of Note to you, whom I was acquainted with at this Court.

The King's Palace makes no great Appearance, nor indeed is it quite finish'd; nevertheless, the Apartments are well contriv'd; The Furniture is rich, and there are excellent Pictures, and magnificent Cielings. There are Gardens in this Palace, which are artfully dispos'd in the Manner of Fortifications, according to beautiful Plans; but setting this aside, they are not much adorn'd.

LA NOVALAISE is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig'd to stop there to unload their Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope.

After Mass was ended, they return'd in great Ceremony to the Queen's Apartment; and soon after was the Royal Feast, when the Princes and Princesses din'd with their Majesties. All this was very fine, but the Room was so much too small, that they who were in it were ready to be smother'd, and three-fourths of the People could not get in.

When the Feast was over, their Majesties chang'd their Apparel, and took an Airing with the Royal Family in a Calash, round the great Canal, preceded by all the Court Nobility, and the Officers of the King's Houshold, and follow'd by the Ladies, in Coaches drawn each by Six Horses. But 'tis certain, that in the whole, there was nothing more magnificent than the Number of the Persons, and their Cloaths; for as to their Equipages, they were very ordinary; there was not so much as one new Coach, the Liveries were old, and the Nobility very sorrily mounted.

Or thus:

LETTER XL.

In my last Letter I mention'd the Princes and Princesses of the Blood Royal to you; in this I am to give you an Account of those Persons at this Court, who are in the most exalted Stations.

The Cardinal's Expences are as much circumscrib'd as his Dignity will admit of. He is very regular in his Way and Manner of Living, and no doubt, 'tis the strict Regimen which he observes, that keeps him in so vigorous a State of Health: For he gives very great Application to Business, And I don't think he can be upbraided with wasting of Time in his Diversions.

The TITLE of it is, A COMMISSION of the OFFICE of COMPTROLLER-GENERAL of the FINANCES, for Mr. JOHN LAW.

An ACCOUNT of the BANK BILLS that subsisted, and of those that were burnt.

There then remained therefore} in Trade } 1989072540

CY GIT

i. e.

HERE LIES

'Without a Name, for ever silent, dumb, Dust, Ashes, nought else is within this Tomb. Where we were born or bred, it matters not, Who were our Parents, or have us begot. We were, but are not: think no more of us; For as we are, so you'll be turn'd to Dust.

Sign'd, RICHARD SMITH. BRIDGET SMITH.

TRANQUILLIT? CHRISTIAN CHR?TIENNE. TRANQUILLITY.

Surles les Disputes du Tems. On the Disputes of the Times.

Plein d'ignorance et de Miseres, Why wilt, audacious mortal Man, Pourquoi, Mortel audacieux, So wretched, and so ignorant, Veux-tu sur des profonds mysteres On Mysteries dark and profound Porter un oeil trop curieux! resume to cast an Eye too nice? Toi, pour qui toute la Nature Dost thou, to whom all Nature seems Ne paroit qu'une Enigme obscure, But an impenetrable Riddle, Tu sondes les Divins Decrets? Pretend to fathom God's Decrees? Tu croi que ton foible g?nie Think'st thou thy feeble Genius can De l'Intelligence infinie The mighty Secrets e'er unfold Pourra d?voiler les Secrets? Of infinite Intelligence?

Crains les t?n?bres respectables, Fear thou the dark, but awful Shades, O? Dieu cache sa Majest?; Where God his Majesty conceals; De ses Desseins imp?n?trables For who the Veil can penetrate Qui peut percer l'obscurit?? Of his impenetrable Schemes? Mesure la vaste ?tendue Measure the vast immense Extent De ces Globes, qu'offre ? la vue Of all those Globes that may be seen Un tems serein et lumineux. In Weather most serene and bright. Mais arr?te ici ton audace, But here thy fond Presumption check; Tu ne peux voir que la surface For thou nought but the Surface seest De ce Th?atre merveilleux. Of this Theatre wonderful.

O? t'emporte l'ardeur extr?me Where will thy furious Ardor stop, De tout comprendre, et de tout All Things to comprehend and see? voir? Tu ne te connois pas toi-m?me: And know'st not what thou art L'Esprit ?chape ? son savoir; thyself, Et la Raison imp?rieuse Thy Mind a Stranger to its Bounds: De la Grace victorieuse Will then imperious Reason dare Veut p?n?trer la Profondeur! Presume to penetrate the Depths +Paul+, tout rempli de Of all-victorious Grace Divine? sa Lumiere, Great Paul, in whom its Nous apprend quelle est la maniere Light shone full, Dont elle agit sur notre coeur. Explains to us the Manner how Grace operates upon our Hearts.

Je sens en moi que la Nature I feel within, that Nature's self Veut ?tablir ma Libert?; To fix my Freedom makes Efforts; Elle se plaint, elle murmure, And when her Power is controll'd Quand son pouvoir est disput?. She murmurs inward, and complains. Mais si j'interroge mon Ame But if my Soul I do but ask Comment une c?leste fl?me Which way a Flame celestial La fait agir, la fait mouvoir; Induces it to act and move; Je crains que cette Ame hautaine I fear this haughty swelling Soul Ne donne ? la puissance humaine, To human Power will ascribe Ce qui vient du Divin Pouvoir. That which to Pow'r Divine is due.

Surpris de l'Intervalle immense Astonish'd at the Space immense Qu'on voit de l'Homme au Cr?ateur, Betwixt the Creature and Creator, Si je n'admets une Puissance If I do not a Pow'r confess Qui concourt avec son Auteur, Concurring with its Author, Ce n'est plus pour moi qu'un Free Agency, or that Free-will vain titre, Que le franc, que le libre Arbitre, Of which my Reason so much vaunts, Que ma Raison sais tant vanter: Is but for me an empty Plea: Je ne connois plus de Justice, That Justice I no longer own, Qui r?compense et qui punisse, Which doth reward and punish too, Ce qui ne peut rien m?riter. What strictly neither can deserve.

Ainsi mon Ame est suspendue Thus is my Soul held in Suspense Entre les Sentimens divers. Betwixt Opinions contrary. Par-tout o? je porte ma vue, Where-e'er my roving Eyes I turn Je vous des Ab?mes ouverts. Abysses open to my View. Pour me garantir du naufrage, For fear of being cast away, Je n'ose quitter le rivage; I dare not quit the Sight of Shore; La crainte ass?re mon repos. And 'tis this Fear my Peace secures. Combien, dans cette Mer profonde, How many, in this Ocean deep, Flottant ? la merci de l'onde, Floating at Mercy of the Waves, Se perdent au milieu des flots? Are by those Waves immerg'd and lost!

De tant de disputes fameuses, Let us the dang'rous Tracks avoid O? nous embarque notre orgueil, Of those Disputes but too well known, Fuyons les Routes dangereuse: In which our Pride engageth us: L'Homme ? Lui-m?me est un ?cueil; Man's to himself a fatal Rock; Dans le petis Monde sensible, For in this little World of ours Est un D?dale imperceptible, There is a Dadalus unseen, Dont nous ignorons les D?tours. Whose Windings are to us unknown. La Foi de notre sort decide: 'Tis Faith our Fortune doth decide, Elle tient le fil qui nous guide; She holds the Thread which Sans elle, nous errons toujours. is our Guide; Or else we always go astray.

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