Read Ebook: The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis Baron de Pollnitz Volume IV Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany Italy France Flanders Holland England &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief by P Llnitz Karl Ludwig Freiherr Von

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MEMOIR 1

INDEX 356

MEMOIRS

OF THE

Baron DE POLLNITZ.

The Elector was a very early Riser; as soon as he was up, he spent some Time in Prayer; then the Great Chamberlain or Grand Master of the Wardrobe talk'd to him about Affairs of State, or such as were Domestic; when those Gentlemen were retir'd, the Prince employed himself in reading Dispatches, or in Writing; after which he dress'd himself: About 11 o'Clock he went to Mass, accompany'd by the Prince his Son-in-Law, and the Princess his Daughter: When he held a Council there, 'twas after Mass was over: Upon other Days he play'd at Billiards till Dinner-time, which held a long while, and sometimes a little too much was drank at it; which indeed they could not well help, the Wine there was so delicious. After Dinner was over, his Electoral Highness went with the Princess his Daughter to her Apartment, where he stay'd a little while, and then retir'd to his own, where he caus'd himself to be undress'd, and went to Bed for a few Hours. About 5 or 6 o'Clock in the Evening he was dress'd, after which he gave public Audiences, or else apply'd himself to something in his Study. At 7 o'Clock he went into the Assembly Room, where he found the Princess and the whole Court; and after having chatted some Time, he sate down to Picquet, or to a Pair of Tables; but when the Game was over, he retired, and the Princess went to Supper.

The Jesuits Church is also extremely magnificent. It consists intirely of one Nave, very lofty and spacious, the Roof of which is very noble, and adorn'd all over with Sculpture. The Vestry contains a great deal of Wealth in Relics, and in Vessels of Gold and Silver.

Their College is as magnificent as their Church, there can be nothing finer; and I could not help thinking the Outside of it exceeded the Electoral Palace. In the Inside there are great Rooms, which serve as Classes for the Scholars that come to study with them.

Going out of the great Hall, we pass thro' a very spacious Antichamber into the Hall of Audience, which is very much ornamented, as is all the rest. 'Tis there that the Electors give Audience to the foreign Ministers, and there are Eight great Compartments, shewing the different manners after which the foreign Princes give Audience to Ambassadors. There are other Pictures representing the Histories of several Judgments pass'd by Sovereigns, that have administer'd Justice in Person; and these Pictures are accompany'd with Hieroglyphics, Emblems and Devices suitable to the Subject.

The Apartment which the Elector commonly resides in is very spacious, but irregular. I thought the Chambers and Closets a little too dark. The whole is adorn'd with rich Ceilings and magnificent Tapestries. The Electoress's Apartment communicates with the Elector's by a private Gallery. All the Princes and Princesses are equally well lodg'd, tho' the Chambers of the Apartments are a little too small.

The great Chapel is very fine, and would be much more so, if it was more lightsome. The Electoress has one, which joins to her Apartment, but is not near so large as the former, and has the same Fault; tho' otherwise 'tis a notable Piece of Building, and contains extraordinary Wealth.

The same Piazza leads also to the Riding-House, which is one of the finest I ever saw. 'Tis 366 Feet in Length, and 76 in Breadth. It has 80 great Windows, and all round within there runs a fine Corridor or Gallery to hold the Spectators, when there are any Carrousels or Tournaments. This Corridor is parted by the Elector's Box, which is big enough to contain all the Electoral Family, and adorn'd with very rich Sculptures. The Gallery of the Palace, which reaches to the grand Piazza of the Garden, leads also to the Opera Room, which is very large, and very high. The Stage is answerable to the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Room, and the Decorations are superb, and very numerous. As the Electoral Prince is very fond of Music, he prefers the Opera to any other Performance, and gives Orders himself for what may serve to render it most splendid. You will judge that no Cost is spar'd, the Decorations, Machines, Habits and every Thing being equally noble, and well contriv'd.

Upon the Days that any Feast is celebrated at Court, as Birth-days and the like, when there's an Opera, at the Overture there descends from the Top of the Stage a Lustre of extraordinary Grandeur and Structure, which rises up again immediately after the first Act; a Custom, for which I never could yet hear of any good Reason. This Lustre surprizes the more, because it comes unexpected. The Ceiling opens to let it down, as well as to take it up again.

On the Drawing-Room Days Things were order'd otherwise. The Ladies went to the Electoress's Apartment, or to the Orangery, according to the Place where the Drawing-Room was appointed. When it was kept at the Electoress's Apartment, the Ladies went thither in the Court Dress, whereas at the Orangery they might appear in a Mantua. The Elector and the Princes were also there: His Electoral Highness convers'd awhile with the Ladies; after which they sat down to Play, and every one chose what Game or Partner they lik'd best. When the Play was over, the Company went into another Room, where there was a great Table well serv'd, at which, after the Elector, the Princes and the Ladies had taken their Places, if there was Room, they admitted Gentlemen to sit down with them, either Foreigners, or even such as were in the Elector's Service. At this Table no Rank was observ'd, and the very Princes sat down where they could get Places.

After Mass is ended, the Emperor returns to his Apartment, preceded by all his Court, as when he came. The Nuncio and the Ambassadors are covered, as is also the Emperor; then come the Empress and the Archduchesses, each led by the Steward of their Houshold.

When the Emperor shoots at a Mark, several Persons are enter'd down in a List to shoot with him, and there are Prizes distributed by those who are of the Society of Shooters, of whom the Emperor gives the first Prize, the Empress the second, and then all the rest, according to the Seniority of their Admission into the Society. At their Return from this Diversion, the Emperor grants Audience to those that send to desire it by the great Chamberlain, who takes Care to let them know the Time when his Majesty is to be spoke with. These Audiences are given without Ceremony, and they that receive them are introduc'd by the Chamberlain in waiting. The Emperor stands up and is cover'd, leaning with his Back against a Table, with a Canopy over him, and an Arm-Chair by his Side: The Person that approaches for Audience bends the Knee Three times, first as he comes in, next when he is in the middle of the Room, and the third time when he begins to speak. The Emperor hearkens with Attention, gives a gracious Answer, and if there be any thing obscure in what is deliver'd to him, he desires an Explanation. When the Person has made an End of speaking, he bends one Knee to the Ground, and stretches forth his Hand, as a Signal that he desires to kiss that of the Emperor, which his Majesty never refuses. Then the Person retires, going backwards, and making the Three Obeisances that he made at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are observ'd in the Audiences of the Empresses; in order to obtain one from the Empress Regent, Application is made to the great Steward of her Household, who desires it, and then notifies what Hour will be most convenient for the Empress to grant it. At these Audiences there attends but one Lady of Honour, who keeps her proper Distance far enough to be out of the Hearing of what is said, while her Majesty's great Steward stays at the Door in the Antichamber.

Then came 2 Post Masters.

A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, dress'd in the antique Garb in black Cloth and yellow, with Gold Lace.

A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, habited like the former.

A Regiment of Dragoons, whose Regimental Cloaths were red, fac'd with grey, and edg'd with Silver Galoon; the Housings of the Horses were likewise red, and embroider'd with Silver; and the Dragoons were dress'd exactly like the Officers, only they had not Silver Lace.

The King's Huntsmen, consisting of 200 Persons, dress'd in green with Silver Lace.

A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers, cloath'd in red, turn'd up with green: The Officers had Gold Lace, and their Caps were likewise embroider'd with Gold.

A Herald at Arms, wearing a Vest of yellow and blue Velvet, embroider'd with Silver, and a Cap of black Velvet, adorn'd with white and blue Plumes of Feathers.

The Governor and Sub-Governor of the Pages, in Cloaks of black Damask, adorn'd with black and Gold Lace.

After this Litter there follow'd 24 Mules, cover'd with yellow Cloth Housings, lac'd with Silver, and embroider'd with the Royal Arms; they had blue and white Plumes of Feathers, and their Bells and Paniers were of solid Silver.

A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers dress'd in red, fac'd with blue, as were also the Officers, only with the Addition of a Silver Lace.

All the Colonels and Generals of the Troops dress'd uniform in Scarlet, with gilt Buttons.

A Regiment of Dragoons in a red Livery fac'd with blue; only the Officers had their Facings and Vest embroider'd with Silver.

All the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber, the Chamberlains and Ministers on Horseback, who were follow'd at some Distance by the Grand Marshal.

A Regiment of Dragoons, dress'd in red with yellow Facings, and the Coats of the Officers edg'd with a Gold Lace.

Immediately after her Highness's Coach the chief Steward of her Houshold follow'd on Horseback, attended by 24 Turks in Scarlet, with fine Tufts of Feathers on their Turbans.

A Company of the Life-Guards.

A Regiment of Horse, in a red Livery fac'd with blue, clos'd the March.

On the 6th there was a Battle of Beasts in Areas that were built for the Purpose.

The Royal Family consisted then of but Four Persons, the King, the Queen, the Electoral Prince and Princess.

Another Office, which is even less durable, is that of General of the Arms, which no one Man can exercise above Two Months, for Fear, no doubt, lest he who is invested with it should acquire too much Power.

I carefully examin'd the famous Tower that leans to one Side: 'Tis round, and incompass'd with white Marble Pillars that support the Galleries that run round it. I can scarce believe that this Tower was built sloping at first, and am more apt to think it owing to some violent Earthquake, which is a Misfortune very frequent in this Part of the World. They say this Tower is 188 Foot in Height: There's an Ascent to the Platform or Terrass, which is encompass'd with Banisters, by a Stair-case of 193 Steps.

The Palace of the Great Duke is the most stately Building that one can see. All the Relations of Travellers give very large Descriptions of it, but they may be all said to come far short of the real State of it. The Gallery especially is a matchless Piece: 'Tis about 400 Feet long, and has a Row of antique Statues and Busts on each Side. This Gallery leads into several Rooms, which are all full of the greatest Curiosities one would wish to see. In one there are the Pictures of all the famous Painters done by themselves: The second is adorn'd with Porcellane of all Sorts: There is a Table too of great Beauty, inlaid with precious Stones. The other Rooms contain Pictures, Antiquities, and wonderful fine Cabinets of inlaid Work: I was particularly surpriz'd at a couple of Pictures in Wax in one of these Rooms, which are both fine Rarities; but the Artist could not have chose a more melancholy Subject; for the one represents a Church-yard, and the other a City infected with a Plague. There is no looking upon these two Pictures without being struck at the same time with Admiration and Horror.

But let the Outside of this stately Edifice be as magnificent as it will, 'tis not to compare to the Inside, where is nothing but Gold, Silver, Brass, Marble, Precious Stones, Paintings and Carvings by the greatest Masters. In a Word, in this august Temple we see the Master-Pieces of the most skilful Artists in all manner of Works; and if a Man has never so little Taste for Curiosities, he will at every Turn discover new Beauties.

I went afterwards to POZZUOLI or PUTEOLI, where I saw a Road, or rather a Cavern, of a very singular Structure, which is cut out partly in the Rock, and partly in the Sand: 'Tis 30 or 40 Feet in Height, and broad enough for Two Coaches to go abreast. This Road, which is very long, receives no Light but from the Extremities, and a Hole in the middle; for which reason, in the greatest Part of it, one is forc'd to grope out the Way in the Dark, and to take Care to call out at proper Distances, to give Notice where one is, a Precaution without which People would be in Danger of running foul of one another.

As I went out of the Church, I was carry'd to a great Room, where I saw immense Riches. There are 17 large Presses, all full of Jewels and Vessels, for most part of Gold, or of some more precious Matter. In this Room I also saw the Virgin's numerous Suits of Apparel, of which she has Change for every Day in the Year, and so rich, that I declare I never saw any thing like it. After I had well view'd this costly Wardrobe, I went to see the Palace, which is a very spacious Building, not a great way from the Church. I was shew'd the Wardrobe of it, where is a deal of fine Tapistry, and I afterwards went to see the Arsenal, which is not very considerable.

There is nothing magnificent in the Outside of the King's Palace, but then the Apartments are of an elegant Taste, and richly furnish'd, and here's a great Number of Paintings, which good Judges reckon excellent Pieces. The Apartment of the King and Queen takes up the first Story, and forms a double Apartment, with a Guard-Room before it. The finest Part of the Palace is the famous Chapel of the Holy Handkerchief; tho' this Chapel be a Part of the Cathedral, I make no Scruple to call it the Chapel of the Palace, because the King always hears Mass there. I thought it a very gloomy Place, undoubtedly because 'tis lin'd with black Marble of a greenish Cast; and besides, there was no Brass nor Gilding to enliven all this Black. I ask'd, what could be the Reason, why they chose black Marble preferably to any other; and was told, that 'twas in Remembrance of the Death of our Saviour Jesus Christ, whose Holy Handkerchief is preserv'd over the Altar: This Altar is so made, that Two Priests may say Mass at it together, without seeing or interrupting one another.

The Queen had her separate Houshold. She had a Lady of Honour, a Tire-Woman, and Six Maids of Honour, who were to be cashier'd, and they talk'd of appointing Six Ladies of the Bedchamber, that were marry'd, to attend the Queen's Person in their room.

I went to see the Arsenal, which appear'd to me to be well furnish'd, and they have always a considerable Garison, the Soldiers of which must be all Voluntiers; and if they once take a Dislike to the Service, they may demand their Dismission, and their Officer cannot refuse it: Yet notwithstanding this Liberty, the Garison is not always completer than it should be.

Since I knew not what I could do better, as my Circumstances then were, I was glad to depend upon the good Offices which the King's Lieutenant proffer'd to do me; and in order to compose myself a little, I lay a Bed as long as ever 'twas possible; for the only Remedy that could render my Imprisonment tolerable was Sleep: But when I awak'd, a thousand different Thoughts rack'd my Brain: Projects brooded over Projects, and I imagin'd Schemes without Number for Deliverance out of my Scrape; but they were no other than so many Castles in the Air, which instantly vanish'd as soon as I came to serious Reflection.

This is not the only Prerogative enjoy'd by the Commissioner to the Dyet: He has a Right to have Guards, and is commonly serv'd by Gentlemen: When an Electoral Minister repairs to the Cardinal for Audience, he is receiv'd as he alights out of his Coach by Four Gentlemen, who conduct him to the Chamber of Audience; There's a Guard-Room, in which there are 50 Soldiers, always drawn up in a Line with Muskets on their Shoulders: Next to this Room is the Chamber of Audience: When the Minister enters it, the Commissioner advances half way to meet him; They then sit down in Two Chairs of State, under the same Canopy; in such manner that the Commissioner is placed in the middle, and the Envoy's almost over against him, but a little to one Side, so that it stands partly upon the Carpet, with the Back turn'd half way towards the Door. When the Audience is over, the Commissioner accompanies the Envoy half way out of the Chamber, from whence Four Gentlemen reconduct him to his Coach: The Envoys of the Princes are only receiv'd by Three Gentlemen. The Commissioner expects them in the Chamber of Audience standing, and leaning upon a Table, which is under a Canopy, with a Chair of State by his Side: When the Envoy is enter'd, the Commissioner sits down, and puts on his Hat, and the Envoy does the same: His Chair of State stands over-against the Commissioner's, with its Back turn'd towards the Door, and plac'd in such a manner, that the Envoy's Feet do but barely touch the Commissioner's Carpet: When the Audience is ended, Three Gentlemen reconduct the Envoy to his Coach: The Deputies of the Free States of the Empire have a Chair with only a Back, and no Arms to it, when they have Audience of the Commissioner, and only one Gentleman receives and reconducts them.

When the Commissioner gives any public Feast, he must send an Invitation to the Ministers of the Electors and of the Princes Three Days before-hand; and the Table must be plac'd under a Canopy, where the Commissioner has the chief Seat; and the Ministers place themselves on his Right and Left, according to the Rank of their Masters.

Besides the Cathedral there are several other fine Churches to be seen here, of which that of the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent: I afterwards went to see the Castle, which stands upon a Hill that looks over all the Town and Country: The Road that leads to it is very rough, and so incommodious for Coaches, that the late Bishop abandon'd it, and chose to dwell in a particular House in the Town, till the noble Castle which he was building was finish'd: I could not help thinking it wrong in him to leave a Structure so magnificent, and so suitable for a Sovereign, in which it may be said, that no Cost has been spar'd: 'Tis encompass'd on all Sides with Ramparts and other Works, which secure it from any Attack: The Inner Rooms of the Castle are indeed ancient, but they have lost nothing of that Air of Grandeur which denotes it to have been the Residence of a Prince: I never saw any thing look so fine as the Vaults in this Castle, which, because they can have no more Day-light than what peeps in at the Door, are illuminated by a great many Candles upon gilded Sconces: These Vaults are full of Barrels, most of which are of a monstrous Size, and they are all adorn'd with Carving, and full of Wine, of which they don't fail to let Foreigners have a Taste.

Immediately after Dinner was over, the Margravine and the Princesses retired, but the Margrave stay'd in the Room to talk with the Courtiers: This Prince commonly stood, leaning only against a Table, and the Conversation was spirited every now-and-then by the Circulation of Bumpers: The Margrave was a good Toper, but he left every Person that attended him to his free Liberty.

In the middle of the Lake is an Island with a Fortification, which the Margrave orders his Troops every now-and-then to attack and defend, on Purpose to refresh their Memories with the military Evolutions.

THE PROFESSION of FAITH,

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