Read Ebook: Guide to Yosemite A handbook of the trails and roads of Yosemite valley and the adjacent region by Hall Ansel F Ansel Franklin

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rn yellow pine in the park. During the flood waters of early spring, ~Sentinel Falls~ descend in a picturesque cascade at the western flank of the great obelisk.

Again continuing westward, we are treated to charming vistas across the Merced. Especially effective from this angle is the great triple pyramid of ~Three Brothers~ buttressing the north wall. Just opposite them on the banks of the river was Kis?-se, the westernmost of the large Indian villages on the south or "coyote" side of the valley. To the west a splendid profile of ~El Capitan~ is revealed and suddenly at the left of the road the ~Cathedral Spires~, each rising 500 feet from its base, seem to tower above the south rim. The Yosemites called the latter Po-see?-na Chuck?-ah, or "mouse-proof rocks," from a fancied resemblance to their acorn caches. A village just below them in a small meadow near the river was called We?-sum-meh.

We now skirt the powerfully outlined ~Cathedral Rocks~. At ~El Capitan Bridge~ one may cross to the north side of the river. Directly opposite is a ranger station at the foot of the ~Big Oak Flat Road~ . From that point the ~El Capitan Road~ leads both up and down the valley.

Continuing along the shaded highway, we veer to the south, passing close to the foot of ~Bridalveil Fall~, charming glimpses of which are here and there revealed between the trees. Just below a very large rock at the east margin of ~Bridalveil Creek~ is the site of the ancient village of Lem-me?-hitch?-ke. Perhaps the unspeakable awe with which the Yosemites were supposed to look upon Pohono, "the spirit of the evil wind," has been somewhat exaggerated in the past. A short subsidiary road turns to the left to the foot of the fall, a brief side trip which should be taken by all visitors.

A short drive now takes us to the junction with the ~Wawona Road~ which bears to the left at ~Bridalveil Checking Station~ and climbs thru the forests of the canyon-side. Turning to the right, we soon enter ~Bridalveil Meadow~. Near the river was once the Indian village of Sap-pah?-sam-mah. At the edge of the meadow, about 100 feet north of the road, a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, Rose and Shurban, who were massacred here by the Indians in 1852. The view back across the meadows towards the ~Gates of the Valley~ is one of the best from this elevation. At the left is the great shoulder of ~El Capitan~, with the ~Ribbon Fall~ almost hidden in a deep recess at its west. At the right of the portal the beautiful ~Bridalveil~ leaps gracefully from its hanging valley between ~Cathedral Rocks~ and the ~Leaning Tower~.

YOSEMITE TRAILS

For an ideal vacation-land, Yosemite could scarcely be surpassed. Of the 600 miles of trails in the park probably half are within two days walking distance of the valley. It is this portion of the park which is described in the following trail trips--the region which may be seen on walking tours from the valley as a base camp.

For the person whose days in Yosemite are limited, Glacier Point undoubtedly offers the most attractive one-day excursion. It is reached by a number of trails, chief of which are the beautiful Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail, the steep but thrilling climb up the narrow Ledge Trail, and the dusty, toilsome ascent of the Short Trail. Most thrilling of all Yosemite Trails is the ascent of Half Dome, made possible by the recent construction of a cable-guarded route up its north shoulder. Further northeastward is the commanding summit of Clouds Rest, a long one-day round trip, but well repaid by a magnificent panorama of the High Sierra. North of the Yosemite walls the most comprehensive views may be had from Eagle Peak. The top of North Dome is also a vantage point of the first order, but the round trip is a long one-day climb. The summit of El Capitan, although exceedingly lofty, is rather disappointing except for the view over its rim into the abyss below. Sierra Point is but one hour's climb above the valley and offers an especially good panorama.

Many ideal two-day walking trips from Yosemite are made possible by accommodations at the lodges in the High Sierra. Chief among these excursions are the trips to Lake Tenaya, Tuolumne Meadows and Merced Lake. Other charming trails are described in the following text.

TRAIL TRIP 1

Reverse of Trail Trip 2

If one were so time-poor as to have but one day in Yosemite, he should by all means climb to Glacier Point via Vernal and Nevada Falls and return via the Short Trail. This most scenic trip is easily made afoot in one day and should be taken as follows rather than in the opposite direction because one faces the falls in ascending, and the gradual ascent is less tiring. Early in the season it is a good plan to carry a sack or newspaper for protection while passing thru the mist of Vernal Falls.

The ~Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail~ starts near Happy Isles Bridge, 2.3 miles from Yosemite Village. The trail leaves the road at the right just beyond the bridge, or we may take the footpath through ~Happy Isles~, crossing the river on a foot-log and joining the main trail a quarter mile above. Ascending the canyon, the trail climbs 200 feet above the roaring Merced, which was here called by the Indians the "Yanopah" or "water cloud," referring to the mist of Vernal Falls. A quarter of a mile from the bridge is a fine spring. Here the ~Sierra Point Trail~ turns left. Rounding the base of ~Grizzly Peak~ we pass opposite the mouth of ~Illilouette Canyon~ and see ~Illilouette Falls~ at its head. The name is a corruption of the Indian name, Too-tool-a-we-ack. The small dam in the river below diverts water to the Happy Isles Power House. To the left of Illilouette Canyon is ~Panorama Cliff~, along the rim of which our trail runs after a three-hour climb by the Mist Trail .

Above Vernal Falls we pass a glacial tarn called ~Emerald Pool~, at the upper end of which the Merced rushes down over smooth granite, forming the beautiful ~Silver Apron~ and ~Waterwheel~.

Just above is the ~Diamond Cascade~ and bridge. Our trail now joins the horse trail, which descends from the slope above. Crossing the river at Diamond Cascade, the trail ascends to ~Snow Flat~ below ~Liberty Cap~ , which towers above to the left. This granite dome, the Mah'-ta, or "Martyr Mountain" of the Indians, can be ascended by a difficult climb up its eastern flank. Good rock-climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and ~Mt. Broderick~ just northward. At the left of the trail is the site of the old La Casa Nevada Hotel , which was built in the early days and burned down in 1897. The old register is in the Yosemite Museum. The rockslide to the left fell from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918. Fishing is fair from Diamond Cascade to Nevada Falls. The trail turns left and mounts 500 feet by the famous ~Nevada Falls Zigzags~. When white men first visited Yosemite, part of the Merced descended in a cascade where the trail is now built. At the top of the switchbacks the trail to ~Little Yosemite~, ~Clouds Rest~, ~Tuolumne Meadows~ and ~Merced Lake~ continues up the canyon. There is here a government telephone . The new location of a refreshment stand and rest house in the vicinity is indicated by a sign.

Our trail turns right and crosses a small bridge, thence turning southwest to the top of ~Nevada Falls~ . Nevada is "snow" in Spanish and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we. Note especially the shooting spray rockets. These are most wonderful when painted by first rays of sunshine at 7.30 to 8 a.m. Many claim that, looking down from the rim, the Nevada is the valley's most fascinating and beautiful fall. Above this point the river was called by the Yosemite Tribe "Yo-wy-we-ack," or the "twisting rock" branch.

Crossing the river just above the falls, the trail climbs abruptly 700 feet by switchbacks. At the summit the ~Mono Meadow~ and ~Merced Pass Trail~ up ~Illilouette Creek~ turns left . Our trail turns right and follows the rim of ~Panorama Cliff~ almost level for about one mile to ~Panorama Point~ . From here is a fine view of ~Royal Arches~, ~Washington Column~ and ~North Dome~ across the head of ~Yosemite Valley~, and of ~Half Dome~ and ~Grizzly Peak~ to the right. The trail descends 400 feet to the top of ~Illilouette Falls~ . Good fishing is reported in upper ~Illilouette Creek~. Exploration up this canyon will well repay those interested in glacial phenomena.

Climbing out of the ~Illilouette Canyon~, the trail runs north thru open forest. The fallen trees and prostrate bushes are caused by snow-slides from ~Illilouette Ridge~ above . As the trail climbs, the view of ~Mt. Starr King~, ~Mt. Clark~ and the ~High Sierra~ gradually unfolds. The trail joining from the south leads to ~Buena Vista Lake~ and ~Royal Arch Lake~ . From one point in the ascent is an especially good profile of ~Half Dome~ across the canyon. Following along granite ledges the trail passes ~Glacier Point Hotel~ , from which is a most comprehensive panorama of the High Sierra. Accommodations are excellent and one should remain here over night if possible to see the sunrise. ~Glacier Point~ and the overhanging rock are about 200 yards beyond the hotel. This lookout point was called Patill'ima by the Yosemite Tribe. From here we obtain what is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring view readily accessible to tourists. The valley floor is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.

The descent from Glacier Point to Yosemite is generally made by the ~Short Trail~ . From the hotel the trail follows westward along the canyon wall. Rounding a point we get an excellent profile view of the ~Gates of the Valley~ with ~Sentinel Rock at~ the left and ~El Capitan~ at the right. Descending 900 feet by switchbacks thru a forest of fir, sugar pine, yellow pine, Douglas fir and incense cedar, we reach ~Union Point~ . There is here a refreshment stand where cooling drinks and light lunches may be obtained. A short distance from the point is a shelter cabin and a government telephone .

Descending past ~Agassiz Column~, a huge balancing shaft of granite, the trail zigzags down the mountain side, emerging at several vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of ~Half Dome~ and the north end of the valley. The character of the forest now changes, oaks and laurel entering to replace the diminishing fir. The trail terminates at the foot of ~Sentinel Rock~ at the site of the old Camp Awahnee and the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Yosemite is 1.3 miles distant by road to the right. During the season a regular auto-bus service is maintained between this and other valley points.

TRAIL TRIP 2

Reverse of Trail Trip 1

The Glacier Point excursion is a most scenic one-day trip and this is the most widely used of Yosemite trails. Parties are advised to take the reverse of this trip thereby obtaining views of the falls which are unnoticed on the down trip. The ascent is also more gradual and therefore less tiring.

The ~Short Trail to Glacier Point~ starts from the Bridalveil Road 1.3 miles west of Yosemite at the site of old Camp Awahnee and of the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Turning southward we ascend abruptly thru a dense forest of oak, mountain laurel, scattered pines, cedar and Douglas fir. As the trail climbs rapidly by switchbacks, broad-leaved trees disappear, their places being taken by sugar pines and true firs from above. Frequently the trail emerges at vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of ~Half Dome~ and the north end of the valley. A climb of 2350 feet takes us past a balancing shaft of granite, ~Agassiz Column~, to ~Union Point~ . At this fine view-point are a government shelter cabin and telephone

The remaining 900-foot climb to Glacier Point is thru a dense forest with some vast views to the northeast. A short level stretch near the end leads to ~Glacier Point~ . The view from the vicinity of the overhanging rock is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring sight readily accessible to tourists. The Yosemite Tribe called this lookout point Patill'ima. Yosemite is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.

The ~Glacier Point Hotel~ and cottages are but 200 yards distant. The panorama of the ~High Sierra~ from the hotel balcony is especially fine. Accommodations are excellent and it is recommended that the tourist remain over night if possible to see the sunrise.

Passing the hotel the trail descends gradually along granite ledges revealing a most impressive profile of ~Half Dome~ across the canyon. During the descent into the canyon of the Illilouette several patches of fallen trees and prostrate brush are passed. These are caused by the frequent snow slides from the ~Illilouette Ridge~ above . At a trail forks, the ~Buena Vista Trail~ branches south up the ~Illilouette Canyon~. An abrupt descent by zigzags takes us to a point from which is obtained a good view of the lace-like ~Illilouette Fall~. The name is a corruption of the old Indian name Too-tool-a-we-ack. A few feet below we stop at the lip of the fall . The canyon above abounds in glacial phenomena and will well repay a side trip for those interested in geology. Fishing is good up the canyon.

A climb of 375 feet takes us to ~Panorama Point~ , from which is an imposing view of the upper end of the valley and the mouth of ~Tenaya Canyon~. To the right is the sheer edge of ~Panorama Cliff~, along which our trail now follows almost level for about a mile. In the canyon below can be seen our route of about two hours hence. At a trail forks the ~Mono Meadow~ and ~Merced Pass Trail~ turns right into the ~Illilouette Creek Basin~.

Now begins an abrupt descent of 700 feet by switchbacks to the ~Merced River~ which, above this point, was called by the Yosemite Tribe the Yo-wy-we-ack or "twisting rock" branch. A few steps from the bridge is the top of ~Nevada Falls~ . Nevada is Spanish for snow and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we. Many claim that the view from the overhanging ledge is the most fascinating water-vista of Yosemite. Note especially the shooting spray rockets. These are most wonderful when painted by the first rays of sunshine at 7:30 to 8 a.m.

About a quarter of a mile upstream the trail crosses a small bridge and is joined by the ~Clouds Rest~, ~Sunrise~, ~Lake Merced~ and ~Little Yosemite Trail~ . Here is a government telephone . Fishing is good about two miles upstream in ~Little Yosemite~. In the following abrupt 500-foot descent by zigzags some fine profile views of ~Nevada Falls~ are obtained. When white men first visited Yosemite part of the Merced cascaded down the steep slope where the trail is now built. As the trail crosses ~Snow Flat~ at the foot of Nevada Falls, the ruins of the old "La Casa Nevada," or "Snow House," are seen at the right of the trail. The old register, which dates back to 1871, is in the Yosemite Museum. ~Liberty Cap~ , which the Indians called Mah'ta or "Martyr Mountain," towers above to the right. It may be ascended from the east and good rock climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and ~Mount Broderick~ just northward. The talus of huge rocks above the trail fell from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918.

Nearer the fall the ~Mist Trail~ suddenly drops over the edge of the cliff and follows down a steep, narrow ledge which is well guarded by chains and iron posts. From here and from the zigzags just below we obtain excellent profiles of the fall. We now enter the mist, passing down thru a luxurious growth of grasses and flowers, which caused the fall to be given its present name. Between 10 and 12 a.m. the beautiful ~circular rainbows~ may here be seen. Use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! Following around the base of a cliff on a narrow ledge, the trail again enters a forest and parallels the river. We stop at ~Lady Franklin Rock~, where is obtained one of the best vistas of the falls . A short distance downstream the two trails reunite just before crossing ~Vernal Bridge~, from which is a good distant view of the falls. In the canyon below was the old Indian camp of Ap?-poo-meh.

The trail now mounts about 200 feet above the riotous Merced and in rounding the base of ~Grizzly Peak~ offers a clear perception of the deep recess below ~Illilouette Falls~.

Again approaching the river we pass a spring and water trough where the ~Sierra Point Trail~ joins from the right. The ~Happy Isles Bridge~ on the main road is a quarter of a mile distant. We have the choice of descending by the main trail or crossing the foot-log to ~Happy Isles~, and thence by several bridges and footpaths to the main road.

The road to the right leads to Mirror Lake. We turn left. Camp Curry is one mile distant and Yosemite Village 2.3 miles.

TRAIL TRIP 3

Reverse of Trail Trip 4

The ~North Dome~ trip is a strenuous one-day climb and should be taken as follows rather than Trail Trip 4, thus avoiding the hot ascent of the Mirror Lake zigzags. One should start early, reaching the top of the falls before the heat becomes excessive.

The ~Yosemite Falls Trail~ was built in the early days and operated as a toll trail. It leaves the road a short distance west of ~Yosemite Lodge~. In the first mile we ascend by sharp zigzags thru a shady grove of golden oak and laurel, emerging above into the open and climbing granite ledges to ~Columbia Point~ . From here is a splendid view, especially of the upper end of the valley. Turning north, the trail ascends a few feet and then follows along a granite ledge beautifully shaded by oaks, laurel, Douglas fir and pines. At the left of the trail about a quarter of a mile above Columbia Point is a spring. A short, rather steep descent takes us to ~Valley View~, a lookout point a short distance to the right of the trail, from which is an excellent view of the valley and the ~Upper Yosemite Fall~. Skirting the base of an almost perpendicular cliff at the left, the trail approaches the foot of the upper fall and bears to the left. From this point it is possible to leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, entering the cave under its base except during high water. The climb is dangerous because of slippery rocks.

Returning to the main trail we climb parallel to the eastern rim of the cliff. To the right are ~Castle Cliffs~ and the flat summit of ~North Dome~ beyond. After a climb of 400 feet the trail crosses a ridge and traverses a dense forest of fir and pine, descending 400 feet and crossing ~Indian Creek~. Directly south is ~Indian Canyon~, called by the Yosemite Tribe "Le Hamite," because of the arrowwood which grew there. Their main trail into Yosemite followed along the precipitous east side of the canyon.

The ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~ is crossed a half mile beyond the main stream, and here the ~Snow Flat Trail~ continues upstream. Turning to the right, our trail passes thru a fir forest about one mile to ~Indian Ridge~, which it follows south over disintegrating granite and thru stunted forest to the rounded summit of ~North Dome~ . The view is most comprehensive and the sheer vertical wall of ~Half Dome~ gives an impression of massiveness nowhere else obtained. To the north of the trail near the summit is ~Slipper Rock~.

In returning to Yosemite we take all main trails to the right. Retracing our path up ~Indian Ridge~ it is possible to follow the trail back to the ~East~ or ~Little Winkle Fork of Indian Creek~, and turn right on the ~Snow Flat Trail~, but the better and the shorter way is to follow the plain blazes which turn to the right about a half mile from the North Dome summit and just west of the crest of ~Indian Ridge~. Running thru a beautiful forest this trail joins the main ~Snow Flat Trail~ at the ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~ just west of ~Indian Rock~.

It is also possible to leave the trail and follow up Indian Ridge from North Dome, gradually bearing to the right of ~Indian Rock~ and intersecting the main ~Mirror Lake Trail~ near the top of the zigzags.

Our trail follows up the ~East~ or ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~, at the source of which the ~Porcupine Flat Trail~ branches to the left. The ~Mirror Lake Trail~ swings north of ~Indian Rock~, and descends east to a branch of ~Snow Creek~, passing ~Snow Creek Falls~. Further down Snow Creek is the junction with the ~Lake Tenaya Trail~ . Turning right we further descend Snow Creek and pass over the rim of the canyon between ~Basket Dome~ at the right and ~Mt. Watkins~ at the left. In the next one and a half miles a descent of 2500 feet is made by 108 switchbacks to the floor of ~Tenaya Canyon~. Following down the canyon one mile, the trail joins the road at ~Mirror Lake~. Yosemite is three miles distant by road.

TRAIL TRIP 4

Reverse of Trail Trip 3

This is a strenuous one-day climb. The advantage of taking the trip as follows and seeing the sunrise at ~Mirror Lake~ is more than offset by physical penalty of climbing the hot and steep ~Tenaya Trail~ zigzags. The trip is better taken in the reverse direction . If the following route is adhered to, it is best to leave Yosemite as early as possible, carrying a canteen which should be filled about three-quarters of a mile above Mirror Lake.

~Mirror Lake~ is three miles distant by road from Yosemite. Here our trail leaves the end of the road and skirts the west shore. Following up the canyon beneath the dense forest about one mile we suddenly turn left and start the 2500-foot ascent. From the 108 switchbacks are many fine views. After a long, tiresome climb the trail passes over the canyon rim between ~Mt. Watkins~ at the right and ~Basket Dome~ at the left. A short distance takes us to ~Snow Creek~, which cascades beautifully further down its rough canyon. Turning upstream we soon arrive at a trail fork where the ~Tenaya Lake Trail~ turns right. We turn left, following up the west branch about a mile further. In high water ~Snow Creek Falls~ is especially attractive. The trail now makes a wide detour to the north of ~Indian Rock~ . If desirable, pedestrians may leave the trail and climb to its summit, from which are good views, thence following south down the long open ridge to the summit of ~North Dome~.

The trail keeps at a lower elevation, passing thru almost level fir forests and meadows with a charming diversity of wild-flowers and trees. Gradually bearing southward our trail follows down the ~East~ or ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~ from its source. The main ~Snow Flat Trail~ continues down this stream, but we turn left on the plainly blazed ~cut-off trail to North Dome~. Passing thru the dense forests on the west flank of ~Indian Ridge~, we finally emerge on the open disintegrated granite at the crest of the long slope leading southward to North Dome. Here the ~Yosemite Falls Trail~ joins from the west. The rounded summit of ~North Dome~ is now easily reached by a walk thru the open forest and over granite pavements, which here exhibit very well the geological phenomenon of exfoliation or weathering in concentric shells. Near the summit and to the north of the trail is ~Slipper Rock~. From the top is a vast outlook, especially westward toward the ~Gates of the Valley~ and eastward where the great wall of ~Half Dome~ dominates the entire landscape. The floor of ~Yosemite Valley~ is partly hidden by the projecting ~Royal Arch Cliff~. Daring rock climbers who have made the descent to the edge describe this dizzy precipice as one of the most impressive in the park.

In returning to Yosemite we take all main trails to the left. Retracing our path for about half a mile up ~Indian Ridge~, we turn westward. One mile more thru dense forest takes us past a small stream and to the ~Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek~, where the main ~Snow Flat Trail~ joins from upstream. The steep canyon below was called "Le Hamite" by the Yosemite Indians because of the arrowwood which grew there. Their main trail into Yosemite followed along the precipitous east wall of the canyon.

A climb of 400 feet thru the forest now takes us to the summit of a long ridge which we follow southward, finally paralleling the edge of a deep precipice just westward from ~Castle Cliffs~ and emerging abruptly at ~Yosemite Point~ . This is one of the justly famous view-points of Yosemite and offers a remarkable combination of depths and distances. The granite spire just below and at the right is the ~Lost Arrow~, the "Le Hammo" of the Yosemite Tribe, the story of which is one of their most charming legends.

Returning a short distance to the main trail we descend to ~Yosemite Creek~. On the open ridge just beyond the crossing is a secondary trail which leads to the rim of the ~Upper Yosemite Fall~, a few hundred feet distant. The wonderful view from this point is most thrillingly described by Muir.

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