Read Ebook: Guide to Yosemite A handbook of the trails and roads of Yosemite valley and the adjacent region by Hall Ansel F Ansel Franklin

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Returning a short distance to the main trail we descend to ~Yosemite Creek~. On the open ridge just beyond the crossing is a secondary trail which leads to the rim of the ~Upper Yosemite Fall~, a few hundred feet distant. The wonderful view from this point is most thrillingly described by Muir.

Returning to the main trail we cross a small stream where is the junction with the ~Yosemite Creek~, ~Eagle Peak~ and ~Ten Lakes Trails~ . There is here a government telephone . Turning left we descend abruptly 1600 feet by sharp, dusty switchbacks, finally skirting the bottom of the almost vertical cliff west of the falls. At this point one can leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, in times of low water even entering the cave beneath its base. The climb is dangerous because of the slippery rocks.

The trail now passes southward along a granite ledge beneath the shade of oaks and laurel. A short steep descent at the left of the trail takes us to ~Valley View~, an excellent lookout point. Less than one-half mile further is ~Columbia Point~ from which is a particularly wide and effective panorama. The following 2000-foot descent to the floor of Yosemite Valley is first along granite ledges among scattered Douglas firs and golden oaks, and finally beneath the dense laurel and oak forests of the lower talus slopes. At the foot of the trail is the ~El Capitan Road~. Auto busses run between this and other valley points on half-hour service. ~Yosemite Lodge~ is a short distance eastward and ~Yosemite Village~ is about three-quarters of a mile distant via Yosemite Lodge and the foot-bridge.

TRAIL TRIP 5

Reverse of Trail Trip 6

Owing to the stupendous mountain scenery and the charming diversity of meadows and forests thru which this trail passes, it deserves to be ranked among the most scenic of Yosemite Trails. Two days should be taken for the trip. Excellent accommodations will be found at Tenaya Lake Lodge, but reservations should be made in advance from Yosemite.

The main trail, which turns to the left, should be followed. It continues the climb towards the northeast. About half a mile westward are the two ~Quarter Domes~ . At an altitude of 8200 we pass a spring. Above this the trail rises sharply by zigzags to the base of the ~Pinnacles~ . A climb of a few hundred feet along their east flank takes us near the summit of ~Clouds Rest~ . A short branch trail up the steep and rocky slope leads to the crest, from which is a vast view in all directions. This is the highest of the Yosemite Valley summits.

We descend again to the trail, which turns northeast and follows along the canyon rim, keeping generally just east of the crest. In two miles the cut-off trail from Little Yosemite joins from the right. After gradually bearing to the left, now on the Tenaya Canyon slope, we pass a small lake at the right of the trail. The lake contains no fish, but upstream one mile is ~Mildred Lake~ , in which are some very large trout.

Traversing ~Forsyth Pass~, the picturesque trail now descends 1000 feet in the next two and a half miles over rough granite to the rocky meadows just below ~Lake Tenaya~ . This large, deep glacial lake is beautifully surrounded by granite crags and domes. Its Indian name, Py-we-ack, meant "lake of the glistening rocks," referring to the glacier-polished granite at its upper end. The lake and the peak to the east were renamed "Tenaya" when the last remnant of Chief Tenaya's Yosemite Tribe was captured here by the Mariposa Battalion on June 5, 1851. There is here good camping, and pasturage seems abundant, but horses do not like it and should therefore be hobbled to prevent straying. The lake was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted and steelhead in 1917, 1918 and 1919, but fishing is only fair. Crossing the meadows at the outlet our trail joins the ~Tioga Road~, which follows the western margin of the lake to the ~Tenaya Lake Lodge~, about one and a half miles distant, where good accommodations will be found. The road continues up the canyon to ~Tuolumne Meadows~ seven and a half miles distant, and to Mono Lake.

From Tenaya Lake to Mirror Lake are two trails, which unite after about two and a half miles. The first of these starts from the road just beyond the sharp bend about one and a quarter miles from the lake and bears southwest thru the forest. The other, which is far more scenic, crosses the meadow and park-like forest below the lake, passing a beautiful little unnamed lake where good camp sites and horse-feed will be found, but no fishing. Beyond this is a gradual 300-foot ascent along an open ridge. Below is the deep chasm of the inaccessible and little known ~Tenaya Canyon~. The unbroken granite abutments of ~Clouds Rest~ sweep down almost 4000 feet. After each snowstorm these cliffs shed avalanche after avalanche. At about two and a half miles from Tenaya Lake the less scenic trail from the Tioga Road joins from the right. Descending southwest thru timber the trail passes ~Hidden Lake~ which is to the left of the trail but invisible without making a detour. About two miles further is ~Tenmile Meadow~ on a small tributary of ~Tenaya Creek~. This is a good place to noon. There is here fine horse-feed, also good camp sites, but no fishing.

An abrupt climb of 650 feet now takes us over a spur ridge and to the source of the east branch of ~Snow Creek~. There is here a small meadow at the left of the trail, where good horse-feed and camp sites will be found. A 1500-foot descent by zigzags thru scattered timber takes us down a side canyon to ~Snow Creek~, across which is a foot-log. About 300 yards beyond the crossing, the ~North Dome Trail~ turns northwest and follows up the west branch of Snow Creek. We turn left, passing thru a beautiful forest of Jeffrey pine, lodgepole pine and fir. Fishing is fair, but the trout are small. About one mile below the crossing we suddenly emerge at the rim of the canyon between ~Mt. Watkins~ at the left and ~Basket Dome~ at the right. The following abrupt descent of 2500 feet by 108 switchbacks takes us to the bottom of ~Tenaya Canyon~. Turning downstream our trail enters a dense forest of oaks, laurel, pine and cedar. One mile of almost level path takes us to ~Mirror Lake~, where we skirt the west shore to the end of the road. Yosemite is three miles distant by road.

TRAIL TRIP 6

Reverse of Trail Trip 5

~Tenaya Lake~ is one of the gems of the High Sierra. The very scenic two-day round trip from Yosemite is too long and strenuous to be attempted in one day. Excellent accommodations will be found at Tenaya Lake Lodge, but reservations should be made in advance by telephone. If the trip is to be taken in the following direction one should start early to avoid the intense heat of the zigzags above Mirror Lake. Water should be carried.

The trail starts at ~Mirror Lake~, three miles from Yosemite. One should plan to see sunrise there . Skirting the west shore the trail follows up the canyon about one mile, thru a dense forest of oak, laurel, yellow pine, Douglas fir and incense cedar. Then begins a long, hard climb of 2500 feet up 108 switchbacks .

Above the rim of the canyon the trail follows the west bank of ~Snow Creek~. Fishing is fair but the trout small. Further down stream are picturesque cascades. After passing thru a forest of Jeffrey pine, lodgepole pine and fir for about one mile the trail to North Dome and Tioga Road branches to the left. Our trail turns right and crosses ~Snow Creek~ about 300 yards beyond. We then climb 1500 feet by zigzags up an east branch of Snow Creek thru scattered timber. At the headwaters of this creek is a small meadow at the right of the trail, a good campsite with forage fairly abundant.

Rising over a spur ridge, the trail drops abruptly about 650 feet to ~Tenmile Meadow~ on a small tributary of ~Tenaya Creek~. This is a good place to noon. It is a fine camp and horse-feed is abundant, but there is no fishing. Climbing to the northeast thru timber the trail passes ~Hidden Lake~ , which is a short distance to the right of the trail but not visible from it. About two and a half miles beyond Tenmile Meadow the trail forks. The left branch leads to the ~Tioga Road~, about one mile distant, which may then be followed to Lake Tenaya. The trail to the right is far more scenic. It follows an open granite ridge revealing the wonderfully glaciated canyon below and ~Clouds Rest~ opposite. Down the canyon are Half Dome and the head of Yosemite Valley. Descending about 300 feet the trail passes a beautiful little unnamed lake, where are good camp sites and abundant pasturage, but no fishing. From here the trail traverses almost level meadows and a scattered forest of lodgepole pine one mile to ~Lake Tenaya~ . This large, deep glacial lake is beautifully surrounded by granite crags and domes and is a splendid place for a permanent camp. Its Indian name was Py-we-ack, or "lake of the glistening rocks," because of the glacier-polished granite pavements near the north end. On June 5, 1851, when the last remnant of old Chief Tenaya's Yosemite Tribe was captured here by the Mariposa Battalion, the lake and the dominant pyramidal peak at the east were renamed "Tenaya." Forage is abundant in the vicinity but it is not liked by horses, so stock should be hobbled. The lake was stocked with Loch Leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted and steelhead in 1917, 1918 and 1919, but fishing is only fair. The ~Tioga Road~ follows around the western margin of the lake to ~Tenaya Lake Lodge~, about one and a half miles distant, where good accommodations will be found. The road continues up the canyon to ~Tuolumne Meadows~, seven and a half miles distant, and to ~Mono Lake~.

TRAIL TRIP 7

YOSEMITE TO LAKE MERCED

The round trip from Yosemite to ~Merced Lake~ is an exceedingly scenic two-day excursion. One should telephone in advance for accommodations at the Merced Lake Lodge. Pedestrians may save an hour's hard climb by taking the Mist Trail to the top of Vernal Falls. An excellent three-day trip may be made by combining Trail Trips 7 and 6. First day: Lake Merced. Second day: Clouds Rest and Lake Tenaya via Forsyth Pass. Third day: Yosemite via the summit of North Dome and Yosemite Falls Trail.

From Yosemite we take the road on the south side of the valley past Camp Curry to ~Happy Isles Bridge~. Here we turn right on the main Glacier Point Trail and follow Trail Trip 1 to the junction at the top of the ~Nevada Falls~ switchbacks. The ~Glacier Point Trail~ turns right and crosses a small bridge. We take the left-hand trail, which rises about 200 feet and follows up the ~Merced River~. About half a mile beyond, the ~Little Yosemite Trail~ continues up the canyon. The main trail turns to the left and zigzags upward thru a dense stand of pine, fir and cedar. A climb of about 800 feet in one and a half miles takes us to the junction with the ~Half Dome Trail~ , which branches left. Our trail turns eastward along a gently sloping bench. After a quarter of a mile the ~Clouds Rest Trail~ continues to climb to the left. The ~Merced Lake Trail~ turns right, fording a small creek and thence following up the west bank of ~Sunrise Creek~, crossing about a mile above to the east bank. About half a mile above the crossing is ~Hopkins Meadow~, where the ~Sunrise Trail to Tuolumne Meadows~ branches to the left.

We turn right, passing thru almost level open granite country for the next two miles where we obtain grand views of ~Little Yosemite~, of the deep canyon of the ~Merced~, and of ~Mt. Clark~ and ~Mt. Starr King~ toward the south. Descending some short, steep switchbacks the trail again becomes almost level and passes the picturesque little ~Duck Lake~ at the right of the trail. Rising a few feet we now descend abruptly into ~Echo Creek Canyon~, crossing ~Echo Creek~ about a quarter of a mile from the Merced River. Here at ~Echo Valley~ are good camp sites, excellent feed and fine fishing. Echo Creek was stocked in 1905 with eastern brook trout. Steelhead and German brown trout will also be found in the river. The old "Merced Lake Trail," which is shown on the U.S.G.S. map as ascending Echo Creek is in very poor condition and is no longer used. From Echo Valley the trail climbs about 100 feet over a granite spur, in the ascent passing thru a beautiful forest of western yellow pine. Following for one mile along the glaciated granite slope, the trail parallels the river, which here descends in a series of rapids, cascades and low falls.

We arrive finally at ~Lake Merced~ . This is one of the most accessible and well known of the lakes in Yosemite's High Sierra. At its shores and along the entire seven-mile canyon above are ideal camping places. Horse-feed is abundant above the lake. Fishing is excellent in both lake and river. The lake contains Loch Leven, German brown and rainbow trout. Rowboats may be hired at fifty cents per hour or .50 per day. Merced Lake is undoubtedly the best base camp for trips thruout the entire upper watershed of the Merced River.

The trail skirts the north edge of the lake, passing into a beautiful forest of sugar pine and western yellow pine at the upper end. Just above the lake is ~Merced Lake Lodge~, with excellent accommodations. One may here rent a fishing outfit and some supplies may be obtained. ~Washburn Lake~ is three miles further up the canyon.

TRAIL TRIP 8

The ~Sunrise Trail~ has long been famous as one of the most scenic routes between Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows. The walk is almost too long to be enjoyed in one day and is better taken in two.

From Yosemite Village we follow the road south of the river, past Camp Curry to Happy Isles Bridge. There we turn left on the ~Glacier Point Trail~ and follow Trail Trip 1 to the junction at the top of ~Nevada Falls~. Again turning left we skirt the south base of ~Liberty Cap~ and climb 200 feet to the ~Little Yosemite Valley~. After following along the margin of the placid Merced we veer abruptly to the left at the first trail junction. Straight ahead is ~Little Yosemite~ . Our route mounts the timbered slope to the northward and we now and then catch glimpses of the round dome of ~Mt. Starr King~ across Little Yosemite. A climb of 800 feet takes us to the junction where the ~Half Dome Trail~ turns northwest. We take the right-hand trail, which trends eastward along a gently sloping bench. The ~Clouds Rest Trail~ now branches northward directly up the slope.

Our trail bears eastward and shortly crosses a small branch of Sunrise Creek. The trail now follows up the north bank of ~Sunrise Creek~, crossing about a mile above to the south side. One-half mile further is ~Hopkins Meadow~ and a junction where the ~Merced Lake Trail~ turns right. Horse-feed is here moderately abundant and camp sites fair. The ~Sunrise Trail~ continues up the canyon and is shortly joined by the ~Forsyth Pass Trail~ from the north . Reaching the head of Sunrise Creek and ascending the east flank of ~Sunrise Mountain~ by long sandy zigzags, the trail emerges at several vantage points from which ~Mt. Clark~ is most advantageously seen to the south. The trail now leads almost level through lodgepole pine and fir forests, emerging suddenly at the foot of ~Long Meadow~. To the north is the sharp spire of ~Columbia Finger~ and ~Tenaya Peak~ at the left. Horse-feed is abundant here late in the season but the meadow is generally cold. There is no fishing in the creek. Just beyond the 400-foot ridge to the west is ~Mildred Lake~, in which are some very large trout.

After following up Long Meadow, the trail rounds the eastern base of Columbia Finger, passing over glaciated granite and thru stunted forests. The serrate crest of ~Echo Peak~ towers imposingly at the right across the canyon. A rise of a few feet takes us over ~Cathedral Pass~ . Just beyond is a beautiful unnamed lake above which the spires of ~Cathedral Peak~ rise impressively at the north. Skirting the east shore of this little lake at about timber line, the trail bears northward across a sandy plateau where white bark pine grows abundantly. To the west, down the canyon, can be seen the upper end of ~Cathedral Lake~ about one mile distant. Here camping and fishing are good. The lake was stocked long ago and re-stocked in 1915 by fish from Tuolumne Meadows. Continuing around the west flank of Cathedral Peak the trail gradually bears northeast, descending into denser forests of lodgepole pine, fir and hemlock. To the left can be seen the summit of ~Fairview Dome~ about one mile distant. A gradual descent through the dense forest, which is especially noted for its many beautiful mountain hemlocks, takes us finally to the south edge of ~Tuolumne Meadows~, where the trail joins the Tioga Road. The ranger camp and Sierra Club Lodge are about one mile east.

TRAIL TRIP 9

YOSEMITE TO EAGLE PEAK, EL CAPITAN AND GENTRY

The round trip to the summit of Eagle Peak via Yosemite Falls Trail is one of the most attractive of one-day Yosemite excursions. From the valley to the crest of El Capitan via the Yosemite Falls Trail, returning via Gentry and the Big Oak Flat Road, is too long and hard a trip to be attempted in one day except by the most hardened walkers. The trail to Eagle Peak is excellent, but from that point to the summit of El Capitan it is in poor condition. From this point along the north rim to Gentry the route is so overgrown by brush as to be almost impassable.

From ~Yosemite~ we follow Trail Trip 3 as far as the trail junction above the zigzags west of the ~Upper Yosemite Fall~. Here we continue straight ahead, paralleling ~Yosemite Creek~, to another junction a quarter of a mile above. The trail to the north leads to ~Ten Lakes~ and ~Hetch Hetchy~ . We turn to the left, climbing westward near the north bank of ~Eagle Creek~ over an old terminal moraine. One mile from the junction is ~Eagle Peak Meadow~ , where are good camp sites and forage. Ascending the creek to its source, the trail continues south along the ridge, climbing abruptly the last half mile to ~Eagle Peak~ , one of Yosemite's finest lookout points. To the east the 3800-foot precipice gives a vast impression of depth.

About one-third mile from the summit the little-used ~El Capitan Trail~ branches to the west. Descending by sharp switchbacks to the head of a small draw, the trail follows the rim westward thru a brushy forest, undulating over the flat divides between several brooklets. Swinging southward our trail emerges on an open transverse ridge, which it follows a short distance to the summit of ~El Capitan~ , from which is a commanding outlook both up and down the valley. It is possible to carefully descend towards the southeast to the rim, where a slightly extending ledge allows one to peer over the sheer wall of the 3000-foot cliff.

The old ~El Capitan Trail to Gentry~ branches to the west about one-third of a mile north from the summit and continues thru very brushy country along the north rim to ~Ribbon Creek~, about one mile distant. From this point if one is a good woodsman and brush-fighter, the old blazes may be followed thru a three-mile tangle to the ~Gentry Checking Station~ on the ~Big Oak Flat Road~. Yosemite is then 8.1 miles distant by road.

TRAIL TRIP 10

The recently constructed ~Ten Lakes Trail~ makes the exceptionally beautiful ~Ten Lakes Basin~ and ~Grant Lakes~ easily accessible from Yosemite. The round trip is too long to be attempted in one day. The lakes offer most attractive sites for a permanent camp, and several of them are well stocked with trout.

We follow the ~Yosemite Falls Trail~ from its beginning just west of ~Yosemite Lodge~ to the trail junction at the top of the upper zigzags. Here the ~Yosemite Point and North Dome Trail~ turns right and crosses a small creek. Those who have not visited the top of the upper fall should by all means turn aside, for it is but a short distance--less than five minutes' walk. Our main trail continues straight ahead paralleling without crossing ~Yosemite Creek~ thru a beautiful mixed forest where the tree-lover will find a few specimens of western white pine. At about one-quarter mile the ~Eagle Peak Trail~ branches to the left. We follow up the west margin of the creek, generally thru dense forests, but emerging at times to clatter over polished and striated granite pavements where monster mountain junipers grotesquely spread their gnarled branches. Great "potholes" have been formed by the stream where it rushes over the smoothly planed bedrock. At a point 3.7 miles above the Eagle Peak Trail junction the main trail continues to the left up the west fork . Our trail, which turns right and keeps on up the main fork canyon, is considerably less traveled. In the next 2.3 miles we pass over rough granite up the west bank of the main stream to the ~Yosemite Creek Ranger Station~ on the ~Tioga Road~. There is here a government telephone. Good camp sites will be found at the crossing a quarter of a mile east of the cabin and fair feed upstream. Fishing is fair to poor. There are better camps, feed and fishing about three miles upstream.

At the Tioga Road the trail is indistinct. We cross the bridge and follow up the east bank of Yosemite Creek on the main road until the blazes are sighted. The first third of a mile is easily traversed, but the following one and a quarter miles are rough. About three miles above the bridge is a meadow with abundant pasturage. This is a good campsite and fishing is fair upstream. In the next three miles the trail gradually ascends to an elevation of 9200 feet, leaving Yosemite Creek and passing over the flat divide into the Tuolumne River drainage. At the summit one can leave the trail and walk southeast 1.5 miles to ~Grant Lakes~ . These are two beautiful mountain lakes, the upper one being in a rugged cirque with sheer walls rising above at the east. Both were stocked in 1917 with rainbow and eastern brook trout.

The Ten Lakes Trail continues north over the tableland and descends 600 feet by switchbacks into the ~Ten Lakes Basin~ , seven miles from the Tioga Road. Here are many ideal camp sites and good forage except early in the season. The lakes were stocked with eastern brook trout in 1908, 1913, 1915 and 1918 with Loch Leven in 1908, and with steelhead in 1918. Fishing is reported excellent. A walk of one and a half miles due north takes us without climbing to the summit of ~Grand Mountain~ , from which is obtained a most impressive view of the ~Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne~ and ~Muir Gorge~ just below. A still finer and more comprehensive panorama may be had from the summit of ~Colby Mountain~ on the canyon rim 2.5 miles northeast from Ten Lakes. For this short side trip one should leave the trail just before its descent into the basin and follow northward on the ridge that juts out into the main Tuolumne Canyon.

TRAIL TRIP 11

From Yosemite to Hetch Hetchy is a long one-day trail trip. The following route is not especially scenic, traversing as it does the rather flat forested plateau west of Yosemite Creek. The country north of the Tioga Road is heavily grazed. Feed is sometimes scarce on this account, and the numerous cattle trails are often confusing. Near Hetch Hetchy the railroad has obliterated about three miles of trail, making it necessary to follow the railroad grade. Further changes may be expected as the work in Hetch Hetchy advances.

From ~Yosemite~ we follow Trail Trip 3 to the trail junction near the top of ~Yosemite Falls~ zigzags. Here we continue straight ahead up the west bank of Yosemite Creek, passing beneath a beautiful forest of Jeffrey pine, white and red fir, lodgepole pine and scattered western white pine. At about a quarter mile a trail branches left to ~Eagle Peak~ . In tracing the following few miles up ~Yosemite Creek~ we often cross pavements of glaciated granite where will be found some magnificent specimens of mountain juniper. Note also the potholes in the creek bed. At three and three-quarters miles from the Eagle Peak Trail Junction the ~Ten Lakes Trail~ turns northeast, following up the main stream. Our trail turns left and parallels the west branch of ~Yosemite Creek~, two and a half miles to the ~Tioga Road~, which we now follow northwestward for five miles, passing several meadows in which are good horse-feed and camp sites. One of the largest of these meadows is ~White Wolf~. The small stream south of the road is the headwaters of the ~Middle Fork~ of the ~Tuolumne River~. There is here fair fishing but the trout are small.

At a point where the road curves to the southwest, the ~Harden Lake Trail~ branches to the right. About one mile northward is a trail junction where the ~Hetch Hetchy Trail~ turns westward and the ~Harden Lake and Pate Valley Trail~ turns eastward. ~Harden Lake~ is but a few steps distant but invisible from the Hetch Hetchy Trail. It is small and contains no trout, but offers an attractive campsite among the meadows and park-like forests.

From Harden Lake we turn westward and for six miles ride thru unbroken forest to ~Smith Meadow~ on ~Cottonwood Creek~. Here the ~Smith Peak Trail~ turns northeast. The 1200 foot climb in two miles to ~Smith Peak~ is well worth a side trip, as it offers a superb panorama. The north slope drops precipitously 4200 feet to the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne.

At Smith Meadow another trail follows down Cottonwood Creek and leads to ~Hog Ranch~, seven miles distant. Our trail turns northeast and in five miles descends to the ~San Francisco Railroad~ grade, which it intersects about halfway between Hog Ranch and Hetch Hetchy. Since the trail has here been obliterated it is necessary to follow the railroad grade which, with pack animals, is rather dangerous on account of the possible meeting with a train. Two miles northward at the end of the railroad is the city camp and offices, and a short distance beyond, the dam-site. From here a good road descends to the floor of ~Hetch Hetchy~, about one mile distant.

TRAIL TRIP 12

YOSEMITE TO SIERRA POINT

For years there was a search for a point in Yosemite from which the five great waterfalls--Upper and Lower Yosemite, Vernal, Nevada and Illilouette--might be seen. The quest was finally ended when in 1897 Mr. Charles A. Bailey and a friend computed the location of such a point by triangulation. To their surprise it was not one of the dominating summits, but occurred rather low on the west flank of Grizzly Peak. The first ascent on June 14, 1897, proved the calculation to be correct and the crag was named Sierra Point in honor of the Sierra Club.

The trail starts from ~Happy Isles~, which are 2.3 miles distant from Yosemite. Here we turn south on the main ~Vernal~ and ~Nevada Falls Trail~ or cross Happy Isles by the footpath. A quarter mile takes us to a spring and water-trough, where the ~Sierra Point Trail~ branches to the left and ascends the flank of ~Grizzly Peak~ by switchbacks. A leisurely ascent may be made in forty-five minutes. From the point is not only a good view of the falls but an impressive panorama. The depths and distances are accentuated by the promontories being above the observer and the canyons far below.

TRAIL TRIP 13

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