Read Ebook: Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain vol. 1/2 by Scott C Rochfort Charles Rochfort

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THE FIRST VOLUME.

PREFATORY CHAPTER.

Containing little more than an Invocation--A Dissertation--A Choice of Miseries--A Bill of Fare--And a Receipt for making a Favourite Spanish Dish.....1

Gibraltar--Forbidden Ground--Derivation of the Name--Curious Provisions of the Treaty of Utrecht--Extraction of Saints without a Miracle--Demoniacal Possessions--Beauty of the Scenery--Agremens of the Garrison--Its Importance to Great Britain, but Impolicy of making it a Free Port to all Nations--Lamentable Changes--Sketch of the Character of the Mountaineers of Ronda--English Quixotism--Political Opinions of the Different Classes in Spain.....21

San Roque--Singular Title of "the City Authorities"--Situation--Climate--The late Sir George Don, Lieutenant Governor of Gibraltar--Anecdote Illustrative of the Character of the Spanish Government--Society of Spain--The Tertulia--The Various Circles of Spanish Society Tested by Smoking--Erroneous Notions of English Liberty and Religion--Startling Lental Ceremonies.....41

Country in the Vicinity of San Roque--Ruins of the Ancient City of Carteia--Field of Battle of Alphonso the Eleventh--Journey to Ronda--Forest of Almoraima--Mouth of the Lions--Fine Scenery--Town of Gaucin--A Spanish Inn--Old Castle at Gaucin--Interior of an Andalusian Posada--Spanish Humour--Mountain Wine.....59

Journey to Ronda Continued--A Word on the Passport and Bill of Health Nuisances, and Spanish Custom-House Officers--Romantic Scenery--Splendid View--Benadalid--Atajate--First View of the Vale of Ronda--A Dissertation on Adventures, to make up for their absence--Ludicrous Instance of the Effects of Putting the Cart before the Horse.....83

The Basin of Ronda--Sources of the River Guadiara--Remarkable Chasm through which it flows--City of Ronda--Date of its Foundation--Former Names--General Description--Castle--Bridges--Splendid Scenery--Public Buildings--Amphitheatre--Population--Trade--Smuggling--Wretched State of the Commerce, Manufactures, and Internal Communications of Spain, and Evils and Inconvenience resulting therefrom--Rare Productions of the Basin of Ronda--Amenity of its Climate--Agremens of the City--Excellent Society--Character of its Inhabitants.....99

Ronda Fair--Spanish Peasantry--Various Costumes--Jockeys and Horses--Lovely view from the New Alameda--Bull Fights--Defence of the Spanish Ladies--Manner of Driving the Bulls into the Town--First Entrance of the Bull--The Frightened Waterseller--The Mina, or Excavated Staircase--Ruins of Acinippo--The Cueva del Gato--The Bridge of the Fairy.....121

Legend of the Fairy's bridge.....150

Departure for Malaga--Scenery on and Dangers of the Road to El Burgo--Fine View from Casarabonela--An Independent Innkeeper--A Spanish Battle, attended with more Decisive Results than usual--Description of Casarabonela--Comeliness of its Washing Nymphs--Road to Malaga--River Guadaljorce--Sigila of the Romans--Cartama.....178

Unprepossessing Appearance of Malaga--Dread of Yellow Fever--The Alameda--Derivation of the City's Name, and Sketch of its History--The Gibralfaro and Alcazaba--Cathedral--Cigar Manufactory--Calculation of the Supply and Consumption of Cigars in Spain--Malaga Figures--Population--Trade--Wine Harbour--Society--Visit to El Retiro--The Fandango and Cachuca.....199

Choice of Routes between Malaga and Granada--Road to Velez--Malaga--Observations on that Town--Continuation of Journey to Granada--Fertile Valley of the River Velez--Venta of Alcaucin--Zafaraya Mountains--Alhama--Description of that Place and of its Thermal Baths--Cacin--Venta of Huelma--Salt-pans of La Mala--First View of Granada and its Vega--Situation of the City--Its Salubrity--Ancient Names--Becomes the Capital of the Last Moslem Kingdom of Spain--Fine Approach to the Modern City--It is the most purely Moorish Town in Spain--Cause of the Decadence of the Arts under the Moors of Granada, and of the easy Conquest of the City--Destruction of the Moorish Literature on the Capture of the City by the Spaniards.....217

The Alhambra and Generalife--Other Reliques of the Moors contained within the City--The Cathedral of Granada--Chapel of the Catholic Kings--Antiquity of the Church of Eliberi--Tomb of Gonzalvo de Cordoba--Churches of San Juan De Dios and San Domingo--Carthusian Convent--Hermita De San Anton.....239

Granada continued--The Zacatin--Market Place--Bazaar--Population--The Granadinos-Their Predilection for the French Costume--Love of Masked Balls--Madame Martinez de la Rosa's Tertulia--An English Country Dance metamorphosed--Specimen of Spanish Taste in fitting up Country Houses--The Marques de Montijo--Anecdote of the Late King and the Conde de Teba--Constitutional Enthusiasm of Granada--Ends in Smoke--Military Schools--Observations on the Spanish Army--Departure for Cordoba--Pinos de la Puente--Puerto de Lope--Moclin--Alcala la Real--Spanish Peasants--Manner of computing Distance--Baena--Not the Roman Town of Ulia--Castro el Rio--Occupied by a Cavalry Regiment--Valuable Friend--Curiosity of the Spanish Officers--Ditto of our New Acquaintance--Influence of "Sherris Sack"--He relates his History--Continuation of our Journey to Cordoba--First View of that City.....265

Blas el Guerrillero.--A Bandit's Story.....300

Cordoba--Bridge over the Guadalquivir--Mills--Quay--Spanish Projects--Foundation of the City--Establishment of the Western Caliphat--Capture of Cordoba by San Fernando--The Mezquita--Bishop's Palace--Market Place--Grand Religious Procession--Anecdote of the late Bishop of Malaga and the Tragala.....410

VOL. 1.

ERRATA.

EXCURSIONS

IN THE

MOUNTAINS

RONDA AND GRANADA.

PREFATORY CHAPTER.

CONTAINING LITTLE MORE THAN AN INVOCATION--A DISSERTATION--A CHOICE OF MISERIES--A BILL OF FARE--AND A RECEIPT FOR MAKING A FAVOURITE SPANISH DISH.

Spain! region of romance! of snow-capped mountains, dark forests, and crystal streams!--Land of the olive and the vine--the perfumed orange and bright pomegranate!--Country of portly priests, fierce bandits, and dark-eyed donzellas--the lively casta?et and gay Fandango! And thou, fair Boetica! favoured province of a favoured clime, whose purple grape tempted Hercules to arrest his course--whose waving corn-fields and embowelled treasures have ever since excited the cupidity of the various ambitious nations that have in turn disputed the empire of the world! Is it indeed true that ye are "now chiefly interesting to the traveller for the monuments which a foreign and odious race of conquerors have left behind them?" Yes, you might proudly answer, we admit such is the case. Spain is chiefly interesting to the stranger on account of the monuments left by her turbaned conquerors; but she is so simply, because, in no other country, are they to be seen in so perfect a state; because, in no other part of the world subjected to Moslem sway, did the arts ever reach to such perfection.

But, whilst Spain lays especial claim to the attention of the stranger on account of the relics of the Moors that are strewed over her surface, she possesses, in common with other countries of Southern Europe, the usual attractions that excite the interest of travellers. Can she not boast of owning monuments of the demi-god Hercules, and other conquerors of the most remote antiquity? Are not her shores studded with ruins of the Phoenicians, Carthagenians, and Romans? Has she not noble works of art of yet more recent times than her Moorish palaces to boast of? May she not proudly point to the splendid gothic edifices raised since her release from the Mussulman yoke? to the incomparable paintings of the divine Murillo? to the statuary of a Cano? Is not the Spanish peninsula one of the most beautiful as well as richest countries in the world?

Such is the answer that Spain and her beauteous daughter, Boetica, might make to the accusation which the words of the accomplished Author I have quoted may be construed to bear. I will venture to add further, that Spain, in her present fallen state, excites, perhaps, yet more intensely, the curiosity and interest of the Traveller, than she could have done even in the days of her greatest glory: for, the contemplation of the wreck of such an Empire--an Empire "on whose wide dominions the sun never set;" whose resources were deemed inexhaustible--cannot but be highly interesting and instructive.

All, probably, have had a share in effecting this lamentable change. The great influx of money led to the neglect of the resources of Spain herself, and induced habits of indolence in all classes of society. The expulsion of the Jews deprived the country of its principal capitalists--that of the Moors, of its most industrious inhabitants. The bigotry and intolerance of its Church have kept its population in ignorance, whilst most other nations of Europe have become enlightened. The numerous religious houses, endowed with the richest lands in the country, and swarming with unprofitable inmates, have preyed upon its resources. The rule of a weak and bigoted race of sovereigns--themselves governed in turn by profligate favourites and ambitious priests--has sapped the monarchy to its foundation; finally, the crude and hasty innovations of wild theorists are undermining its remaining strength, and preparing to effect its utter downfall.

To others, however, I abandon the wide field of inquiry these questions open; the following pages, whatever glimmerings of light they may throw upon the subject, being devoted to the description of but a small portion of this ill used, ill governed, but most interesting country.

Should matters of more general interest have drawn the Traveller to Spain, he will still find Andalusia laying especial claim to his attention; History ascribing to each mountain pass and every crumbling ruin the fame of having been the scene of some desperate conflict between the various ambitious nations that, before the Saracenic invasion, successively sought the possession of this fertile region.

Again, should the beauties of nature have attracted the Traveller's footsteps to Spain, he will find the scenery of Andalusia of the most magnificent and varied kind; presenting alternately ranges of lofty mountains and broad fertile plains--boundless tracts of forest and richly cultivated valleys--picturesque towns and mountain fortresses--winding rivers and impetuous torrents. It may indeed be said to combine the wild beauties of the Tyrol with the luxuriant vegetation and delightful climate of Southern Italy.

Towards midnight, the announcement of "a quarter of an hour, gentlemen" , relieves him from these painful reminiscences, affording an opportunity of washing them down with some scalding liquid, which, though bearing the name of tea or coffee, is a decoction of some deleterious plant or berry, that certainly never basked under the sun of China or Arabia Felix.

It is to be understood that I speak here of the South of Spain only, and more especially of the mountainous country encircling the fortress of Gibraltar,--from whence, in due time, I purpose taking my departure.

I may as well premise, also, that I do not intend to mark with precise date the time at which any of the incidents about to be narrated occurred, excepting when the correctness due to matters of history renders such specification necessary, but to transcribe the notes of my various rambles as they come most conveniently to hand; stating generally, however, that they were written during the period comprised between the years 1822 and 1830, and have been "revised and corrected, with additions and improvements" from the journal of an extended tour made several years subsequently.

The castle of Gibraltar was not built until thirty years after the mountain had been occupied by Tarik; and the fortress remained in the undisturbed possession of the Moors for upwards of five centuries and a half, when it was captured by Don Alonzo Perez de Guzman; though it was afterwards recovered by the Moslems, and again remained in their possession upwards of a century.

The archives, &c. were transported to San Roque, whither also most of the Spanish inhabitants removed with their goods and chattels. The church property does not, however, appear to have been suffered to be carried off; and an old Spanish historian gives with pious exultation a very amusing account of the contraband extraction of the saints from the different churches, after the fortress had been finally ceded to heretical England.

The passage cannot but lose in the translation; as indeed every thing in the Spanish language must. But, even in an English garb, its ludicrous seriousness may excite a smile.

The fat Saint was lodged with other valuables at San Roque, where he may be seen to this day. A thinner Saint Joseph supplies his place in the "Spanish Church" at Gibraltar, and I dare say Joseph Martin has been canonized, and may be heard further of at Medina Sidonia.

Most persons who have not visited Gibraltar entertain very curious notions respecting it; picturing to themselves a mere rock, bristling with cannon, and crowded with Barracks, Furnaces for Red-hot shot, and Powder-magazines. But, in reality, there are few places of the same limited extent that can lay claim to greater and more varied natural beauties.

The Road which leads from the picturesque old Moorish castle to the southern extremity of the rocky peninsula presents a complete change of objects at every turn,--of hanging gardens, impending rocks, and distant vistas of the Spanish and African coasts. On gaining the flats at Europa Point, few views, finer than that which opens upon you, are any where to be met with; none more grand than, as inclining to the eastward, the back of the singular mountain bursts upon your sight, its peaked summits rising precipitously near 1400 feet above the Mediterranean, which, lashing in impotent rage its rocky base, ofttimes dashes a shower of spray over the cottage of the Governor, situated under the lofty cliff, but at least 200 feet above the angry ocean.

Again, ascending to the northernmost peak of the rocky ridge, what can exceed the beauty of the panoramic view?--a wide expanse of sea, studded with countless vessels of all kinds and nations, but so penned in by distant mountains as to assume the appearance of a vast lake, is spread out beneath you:--its glassy surface reflecting the richly wooded or vine-clad hills of Spain, on one side, the savage and sterile mountains of Barbary on the other. Casting the eye beyond the sandy isthmus which to the north separates the isolated rock from the mountains of Spain, it rests upon successive ranges of sierras, that seem to convey you into the very heart of the country; and indeed the view is closed only by the Alpujarra range, which is upwards of a hundred miles distant from the point of view.

Within the Fortress, the hand of man has not neglected to deck out nature, where art could effect improvement. The Red Sands, formerly an unsightly burying ground, have been converted--without disturbing the dust of the tenants of the soil--into public walks and gardens. The rugged tracks, which not long since were dangerous for a horse to travel, have been rendered practicable for carriages, and sheltered from the sun by avenues of trees. The western side of the Rock, which formerly presented a bare and rugged limestone surface, is now clothed with a variety of trees and shrubs, that afford cover to numerous partridges and rabbits, as well as to the aboriginal apes, which have obtained, and not undeservedly, no small share of celebrity; and this belt of verdure, besides being refreshing to the sight, tends probably to lessen the heat of the place and increase its salubrity.

I regret to say, however, that I remained at Gibraltar long enough to witness lamentable changes in many things;--to see the commerce of the place gradually decline, first from the jealousy of the Spanish government at its being made a rendezvous for a worthless and ungrateful gang of refugees; secondly, from various impolitic acts emanating from the Colonial office; and lastly, from an awful visitation of the yellow fever, which swept off a third of its dense population, and, for a time, directed the smuggling trade into another channel.

The value of Gibraltar to Great Britain has been questioned by a recent writer on Spain, who doubts whether it be worth preserving at the cost of a garrison of 4,000 troops, and the stones and mortar required for keeping its defences in repair.

But, besides the advantage Gibraltar gives Great Britain, by the command of the entrance of the Mediterranean, it affords a secure port at which her ships can refit, reprovision, &c. without incurring the expense and loss of time attendant on a long voyage to England. And, with respect to the expense of its maintenance, the benefit accruing to the nation at large by the disposal of her manufactured and other produce to an immense amount, far more than counterbalances the cost of the few thousand troops required for its defence, and which troops may also be looked upon as a kind of support to our advanced posts, Malta, Corfu, &c.

Smugglers by birth, education, and inclination, it could hardly be expected that they should be distinguished by the possession of any very resplendent virtues. Nevertheless, they are characterized by temperance, honesty, hospitality, and noble-mindedness. Hardy and enduring, though generally averse to the occupation of husbandry, they can scarcely be termed indolent, since their favourite pursuit is one which exposes them to great fatigue. Proverbially vain, and supremely ignorant, they look upon their country as the first in the world, themselves as its bravest inhabitants: in the latter supposition, being perhaps nearly as far from the truth as in the former; their courage, such as it is, being rather of the tiger kind. Superstitious beyond all belief, and priest-ridden to the last degree, still their naturally caustic and witty temperament cannot be so bridled as to deter them from indulging in jokes and pleasantries, even at the expense of the ceremonies of their church, or the peccadilloes of their ghostly fathers.

The only change that I ever perceived Liberalism to work in their habits was, that it induced a freer circulation of the pig-skin; thus leading to inebriety and its concomitants, brawling, insubordination, and depravity; and though this departure from the sober dignity that characterizes the Spaniard was most observable in the troops, yet the pernicious example set by these lawless bands could not but be of bad omen.

The condition of this singular race presents, therefore, the anomalous spectacle of the co-existence of rare moral qualities with ignorance, lawlessness, and superstition; and, by instituting a comparison between the condition of the inhabitants of Spain and those of better governed and more enlightened nations, the Philanthropist cannot but entertain a doubt whether a very high degree of education is, in all cases, conducive to the happiness of Mankind.

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