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Ebook has 548 lines and 201928 words, and 11 pages

DEPARTURE from Liverpool.--Arrival at Pernambuco.--The Town and Harbour of Recife.--The Governor.--The Trade Page 1

Visit to the Governor.--The Climate.--First Ride into the Country.--Residence at a Village in the neighbourhood of Recife.--Olinda.--Holy Thursday.--Good Friday.--Easter Sunday.--Profession of a Friar.--St. Peter's Day.--Visit to a Brazilian Family.--A Dance.--Another Visit to Olinda 12

The Government.--The Taxes.--The Public Institutions. --Criminals.--Prisons.--Military Establishments.--The Island of Fernando de Noronha 30

Journey to Goiana.--Journey from Goiana to Paraiba, and back to Goiana 42

Journey from Goiana to Rio Grande.--The City of Natal.--The Governor 56

Continuation of the Journey.--From Natal to A?u 73

Continuation of the Journey.--From A?u to Aracati.--From Aracati to Sear?.--Indians.--The late Governor.--The Family of the Feitozas 97

Return.--From Sear? to Natal.--Sertanejos.--Cattle. --Vegetable Wax.--From Natal to Recife 129

Voyage from Pernambuco to Maranham.--St. Luiz.--Trade.--Wild Indians.--The Governor.--Alcantara.--The Author sails from St. Luiz, and arrives in England 164

The Author sets sail from Gravesend, and arrives at Pernambuco.--State of Recife.--Journey to Bom Jardim with a Capitam-mor, and return to Recife 186

Residence at Jaguaribe.--Journey to Goiana.--Illness.--Return to Jaguaribe 211

Journey to Uninha.--Continuation of my Residence at Jaguaribe.--Negro Brotherhood of Olinda.--Blessing the Sugar Works.--Mandingueiras and Valentoens 235

Removal of the Author to Itamaraca.--The Island.--Conception and Pillar.--The Festival of Our Lady of the Rosary. --Journey to Goiana.--The Toque.--The Cowpox 258

Ants, Snakes, and other Reptiles.--River of Iguara?u. --Building a House.--Several Species of Timber Trees.--The Pinham, Mutamba, and Gameleira Trees.--The Whale 285

Recruiting.--Images.--Animals.--Marac?s.--Apollinario, Mandinga, and Poultry.--Hieroglyphics.--Festival of Our Lady of Conception.--Fandangos.--The Fort.--A Christening. --The Intrudo.--The Author leaves Brazil 305

Agriculture.--Sugar Plantations 336

Agriculture.--Cotton 365

The Free Population 384

Slavery 402

Impolicy of the Slave Trade 445

The Treaties of Friendship and Alliance, and of Commerce and Navigation between the Crowns of Great Britain and Portugal, signed at Rio de Janeiro on the 19th February 1810 457

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

Plan of the Port of Pernambuco to face the References.

A Jangada page 3

Map of the Route 42

Crossing a River 53

A Sertanejo 87

Fishing Canoe 175

A Lady going to visit 188

A Cotton-carrier 194

A Sugar-Mill 336

A Planter and his Wife on a Journey 384

REFERENCES

TO THE

PLAN OF THE PORT OF PERNAMBUCO.

a. Houses and gardens. b. The Carmelite convent. c. The Church of Sacramento . d. The Franciscan convent. e. The Treasury. f. The Palace. g. The cotton wharf . h. The Madre de Deos convent. i. The church of Corpo Santo . k. The Intendencia da Marinha and King's wharf.

To enter the port, coming in from sea, keep Fort Picam and Fort Brum in one, until you have the point of Olinda bearing N., then steer due N., until the cross of Patram is in one with the coco-nut trees on St. Amaro, then steer directly for the same cross of Patram, until you open the inner part of the reef above water, with Fort Picam to the southward, where you may come to anchor, or stand on to the southward into the harbour of Mosqueiro.

To enter the channel for smaller vessels coming from sea, keep the same mark, Fort Picam and Fort Brum in one, until you are within a quarter of a mile of Fort Picam, then bring the two southern watch towers on Fort Brum in one, you clearing the northern extremity of the reef above water, and hauling short round the same, keep the reef close aboard until you are in the harbour of Mosqueiro.

TRAVELS IN BRAZIL.

DEPARTURE FROM LIVERPOOL.--ARRIVAL AT PERNAMBUCO.--THE TOWN AND HARBOUR OF RECIFE.--THE GOVERNOR.--THE TRADE.

IF my health had not required a change of climate, I should not perhaps so soon have accomplished the wish I had often expressed of leaving England for a short time. An immediate removal was judged expedient; and as the ports of Spain and Portugal were either closed to British subjects, or at least not in a state to be visited by an invalid, I determined upon Brazil; to which my friends agreed.--I fixed upon Pernambuco, because a gentleman, who had for many years been acquainted with my family, was about to embark for that place, and from the favourable reports of the people and climate which I had received from several persons. On the 2d November 1809, I set sail from Liverpool in the ship Lucy.

We had a very prosperous passage of thirty-five days, without any occurrence worthy of particular notice.

I was agreeably awakened very early on the morning of the 7th December, with the news that we were in sight of land, and likely to get into harbour this day. We soon discovered two vessels, with all sail set, making for us; these proved to be two English merchant-ships, bound likewise to Pernambuco; they had never before been at this port, and therefore wished to receive some information respecting it; they judged that, from the manner in which our vessel made for the land, her commander must be acquainted with it, which was the case, this being the second voyage of the Lucy to Pernambuco.

The land is low, and consequently not to be seen at any considerable distance; but as we approached it, we distinguished the hill upon which stands the city of Olinda, a little to the northward; and some leagues to the southward, the Cape of St. Agostinho; a nearer view discovered to us the town of St. Antonio do Recife, almost a-head with the shipping in front of it; the dreary land between it and Olinda, which is one league distant, and coco groves northward, as far as the eye can reach; southward of the town are also seen great numbers of coco trees, woods, and scattered cottages. The situation of Olinda is the highest in the neighbourhood; and though not very high, is still not despicable. Its appearance from the sea is most delightful; its white-washed churches and convents upon the tops and sides of the hill; its gardens and trees, interspersed amongst the houses, afford a promise of great extent, and hold out expectations of great beauty. The sands, which extend one league to the southward of it, are relieved by two fortresses erected upon them, and by the ships in the lower harbour. Then follows the town of Recife, with the appearance of being built in the water, so low is the sand-bank upon which it has been raised; the shipping immediately in front partly conceal it; and the bold reef of rocks on the outside of these, with the surf dashing violently against and over it, give to them the appearance of being ashore; and as no outlet is seen, they seem to be hemmed in. The small tower or fort at the northern end of the reef, however, soon claims attention, and points out the entrance. We approached the land rather to the southward of the town, and coasted, under very easy sail, at a short distance from the reef, waiting for a pilot. It was not yet noon, the sea was smooth, the sun was bright, and every thing looked pleasant. The buildings are all white-washed; the sun shone upon them, and gave to them a glittering silvery appearance.

The pilot placed himself near to the ship's windlass; a Portugueze sailor was sent to take the helm, but still the vociferation was extreme; the man seemed to think that, by speaking very loud, he would make the English seamen understand his language; and what with his bawling to them and to his own people, and their noise, the confusion was excessive; however, we doubled the fort in safety, and came to anchor in the upper harbour. The reef is very perpendicular near to the bar; and to one unacquainted with the port, there is every appearance of the vessel being about to drive upon it. I then accompanied my fellow-passenger; we left the ship and proceeded to the shore. Here was a new scene indeed. We had taken the letter-bag with us; the crowd of well-dressed persons upon the quay was great; they saw the bag, and soon their anxiety for news overcame their politeness; the letters were asked for, and at last we gave them up, and they were scrambled for, each man seeking his own. We had landed at the custom-house wharf upon a busy day, and the negroes too were all clamour and bustle. Their hideous noise when carrying any load, bawling out some ditty of their own language, or some distich of vulgar Portugueze rhyme; the numerous questions asked by many persons who met us, and the very circumstance of seeing a population consisting chiefly of individuals of a dark colour, added to the sound of a new language, with which, although I was acquainted, still I had not since very early youth been in a country where it was generally spoken; all combined to perplex and to confuse. I was led along by those who were accustomed to these scenes, and we proceeded to the house of one of the first merchants in the place. We were ushered up one pair of stairs into a room in which were several piles of piece-goods, a table covered with papers, and several chairs. There were four or five persons in the room besides the owner of the house. I delivered my letter of introduction to him, and was treated with the greatest civility. Our next visit was to a colonel, who is also a merchant, from whom I met with the same behaviour.

As there are no inns or furnished lodgings at Recife, or atOlinda, an acquaintance of my fellow-passenger obtained some temporary rooms for us, and supplied us with what we wanted. We are therefore at last quietly settled in our new habitation, if I may be allowed to call it quiet, whilst some twenty black women are under the windows bawling out, in almost all tones and keys of which the human voice is capable,--oranges, bananas, sweetmeats, and other commodities, for sale.

The bridge which leads to St. Antonio has an arch-way at either end, with a small chapel built upon each; and at the northern arch is stationed a serjeant's guard of six or eight men. The bridge is formed in part of stone arches, and in part of wood: it is quite flat, and lined with small shops, which render it so narrow that two carriages cannot pass each other upon it.

St. Antonio, or the middle town, is composed chiefly of large houses and broad streets; and if these buildings had about them any beauty, there would exist here a certain degree of grandeur: but they are too lofty for their breadth, and the ground-floors are appropriated to shops, warehouses, stables, and other purposes of a like nature. The shops are without windows, and the only light they have is admitted from the door. There exists as yet very little distinction of trades; thus all descriptions of manufactured goods are sold by the same person. Some of the minor streets consist of low and shabby houses. Here are the Governor's palace, which was in other times the Jesuits' convent; the treasury; the town-hall and prison; the barracks, which are very bad; the Franciscan, Carmelite, and Penha convents, and several churches, the interiors of which are very handsomely ornamented, but very little plan has been preserved in the architecture of the buildings themselves. It comprises several squares, and has, to a certain degree, a gay and lively appearance. This is the principal division of the town.

The bridge which connects St. Antonio with Boa Vista is constructed entirely of wood, and has upon it no shops, but is likewise narrow. The principal street of Boa Vista, which was formerly a piece of ground overflowed at high water, is broad and handsome: the rest of this third division consists chiefly of small houses, and as there is plenty of room here, it extends to some distance in a straggling manner. Neither the streets of this part of the town nor of St. Antonio are paved. A long embankment has likewise been made, which connects the sand-bank and town of St. Antonio with the main land at Affogados, to the south and west of Boa Vista. The river Capibaribe, so famous in Pernambucan history, discharges its waters into the channel between St. Antonio and Boa Vista, after having run for some distance in a course nearly east and west.

Some few of the windows of the houses are glazed, and have iron balconies: but the major part are without glass, and of these the balconies are enclosed by lattice-work; and no females are to be seen, excepting the negro slaves, which gives a very sombre look to the streets. The Portugueze, the Brazilian, and even the Mulatto women, in the middle ranks of life, do not move out of doors in the day-time; they hear mass at the churches before day-light-, and do not again stir out, excepting in sedan chairs, or in the evening on foot, when occasionally a whole family will sally forth to take a walk.

The upper harbour of Recife, called the Mosqueiro, as has been already said, is formed by the reef of rocks which runs parallel with the town at a very small distance. The lower harbour, for vessels of 400 tons and upwards, called the Po?o, is very dangerous, as it is open to the sea, and the beach opposite to it is very steep. The large Brazil ships, belonging to merchants of the place, lie here for months at a time, moored with four cables, two a-head and two a-stern. If precautions are not taken very speedily, the entrance to the harbour of Mosqueiro will be choaked up, owing to a breach in the reef, immediately within the small fort, which is called Picam. The port has two entrances, one of which is deeper than the other. The tide does not rise more than five and a half feet. The principal defence of the town consists in the forts Do Buraco and Do Brum, both of which are built of stone, and are situated upon the sands opposite to the two entrances. Likewise there is the small fort of Bom Jezus, near to the arch-way and church of the same name; and upon the south-east point of the sand-bank of St. Antonio stands the large stone fort of Cinco Pontas, so called from its pentagonal form. They are said to be all out of order. From what I have stated, it will be seen that the ground upon which the town has been built is most peculiarly circumstanced, and that the manner in which the harbour is formed is equally rare.

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