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THE NOVELIST

In discussing the art of any novelist as distinct from the poet or essayist there are three special questions that we may ask--as to the Theme, as to the Form, as to the creation of Character.

Farther to the west lies the Medicine Bow Range, or, as the Indians so picturesquely named it, the "Never Summer" range. Of its many peaks the most prominent are Bowen, Nimbus, Red, Cumulus, Howard, Lead, and, highest of all in this range, Mount Richthofen, 12,953 feet in elevation. Strange as it may seem, Milner Pass lies below, and one descends in order to cross the Continental Divide. The road drops down into the forest zone, passes Poudre Lakes, and crosses Milner Pass at an elevation of 10,759 feet. The Atlantic slope lies behind and, crossing the backbone of the continent, one travels down the Pacific slope to the headwaters of the Colorado River. The valley of the North Fork is hemmed in by mountains. The Continental Divide makes a loop here and blocks progress to the west, north, and east. The valley opens to the south, however, and the road proceeds down the north fork of the Colorado River.

Grand Lake, the sapphire gem on the western edge of the national park, is one of the largest and most beautifully situated lakes in the State. It is a mile and a half in length and nearly a mile in width. Its clear, cold water is of great depth. The lake lies at an elevation of 8,369 feet and claims the highest yacht club in the world. The annual regatta is an event of much interest. At the head of the lake Mount Craig rises to a height of 12,005 feet, while Shadow Mountain, Bryant, Wescott, and Mount Enentah are nearby.

This is a point of concentration for park visitors where nearly everybody spends at least one night. Fishing, boating, horseback riding, and mountain climbing are some of the outdoor attractions.

Leaving the lake, the road follows down the Colorado River, passes the town of Granby, and commences the climb up a beautifully timbered valley to Berthoud Pass. Here, close to timberline, the watershed between the two oceans is again crossed. The road approaches near Georgetown, famed for its railroad loop, and then passes through Idaho Springs, with its hot springs and medicinal baths. Soon the valley of Clear Creek is left behind and the climb to Bergen Park is made where the Denver Mountain Parks are entered. In this region is Lookout Mountain, where Colonel Cody, "Buffalo Bill", is buried, overlooking the plains he knew so well.

From Wildcat Point there is a splendid view of foothills and plains, with Denver some 12 or 14 miles away.

BEAR LAKE ROAD

The Bear Lake Road passes the Glacier Basin public campground, 7 miles from Estes Park, and then follows up the valley of Glacier Creek, passing near Sprague's Lodge, and ends at Bear Lake, 12 miles from Estes Park. This is one of the best roads within the park boundaries. Bear Lake Lodge, on the eastern shore of the lake, offers good accommodations. The trail to Loch Vale starts from the Bear Lake Road, about 10 miles from Estes Park. From this trail or from Bear Lake the hiker can reach some beautiful and scenic country, including Glacier Gorge, Loch Vale, Dream Lake, and Tyndall Gorge. The trail to Fern Lake and the Flattop Trail to Grand Lake may be conveniently reached from Bear Lake. North Longs Peak Trail also leaves the road at this point.

LOOP TRIP

One may combine portions of several roads by taking what is known as the loop trip. Starting from Estes Park, the route follows the Fall River Road up to Chasm Falls and back to Horseshoe Park, then over Deer Ridge to Beaver and Moraine Parks, then a side trip up the Bear Lake Road and back, returning to Estes Park by the Moraine Park Road. This loop trip takes one by many of the hotels and other points of interest and offers scenic views. The circuit of the Highdrive is 17 miles. Including the trip to Bear Lake and other points, the distance is about 40 miles.

LONGS PEAK AND WILD BASIN TRIP

The main road to the Longs Peak district comes in just east of the village of Estes Park, skirting the east boundary of the park to its south-east corner. It passes between Longs Peak and the Twin Sisters, a detached area of the park on which a fire lookout is stationed, and several of the finest foot trips in the park are accessible from this road.

Continuing in a southerly direction, the road skirts the eastern boundary of the park and leads to Copeland Lodge on North St. Vrain Creek. From this point a trail leads into Wild Basin, a very attractive though less frequented portion of the park.

The road continues to Allens Park, thence to Ward, Nederland, and Boulder; another road leads down the South St. Vrain to Lyons.

TRAIL TRIPS

Travelers on trails are advised to secure the services of licensed guides for all except the shortest trips. Besides insuring security, the guide adds greatly to one's comfort and enjoyment. He knows the country and its features of interest, and also has a general knowledge of the trees and wild flowers. Information as to guides can be secured at the park information office.

THE FLATTOP TRAIL

The Flattop Trail crosses the Continental Divide between Estes Park Village on the east and Grand Lake Village on the west. The 16-mile trip may be made on horseback or on foot in 1 day, but it takes a seasoned trail traveler to do it with pleasure. The trail starts at Bear Lake, where horses may be rented, and climbs Bierstadt Moraine. It emerges above timberline, overlooking Emerald Lake and Tyndall Glacier, and commands spectacular views of Longs Peak and other mountains, both in the park and in distant ranges. The grassy slopes above timberline, bedecked with exquisite alpine flowers, afford good summer grazing for elk and mountain sheep.

After descending to timberline on the western slope, the trail leads through evergreen forests, along the North Inlet to Grand Lake.

LAWN LAKE

The glories of the Mummy Range, exemplified chiefly in Lawn Lake and Rowe Glacier, may be seen from a trail starting from Horseshoe Park by way of Roaring River. There is a shelter on beautiful Lawn Lake. This lake, which has an area of 65 acres, lies at the bottom of the main cirque at the head of Roaring River. It is one of the many glacial lakes of the park, and lies just below timberline at an altitude of 10,950 feet.

The trip from Lawn Lake to Rowe Glacier is difficult but well worth while. The glacier is the largest in the park. It is a great crescent of ice partly surrounding a small lake. While the glacier is extremely impressive, still it is small enough to permit a thorough examination without undue fatigue. Hagues Peak is a resort of Rocky Mountain sheep and ptarmigan.

FERN AND ODESSA LAKES

The group of luxuriant canyons east of the Continental Divide and north of the eastern spur which ends in Longs Peak is known as the "Wild Gardens" in distinction from the corresponding and scarcely less magnificent hollow south of Longs Peak, which is known as "Wild Basin."

Of these canyons, one, the most gorgeous, frames two lakes of exquisite beauty. The upper one, Odessa Lake, lies under the Continental Divide and reflects snowy monsters in its still waters. The other, Fern Lake, a mile below, is one of the loveliest examples of forest-bordered waters in the Rockies.

These lakes are reached by trail from Moraine Park. They constitute a day's trip of memorable charm. Fern Lodge, located at the edge of the lake, offers comfortable accommodations. Several splendid trips can be taken on foot with Fern Lake as a starting point. Winter sports are held here every year. Forest Inn, a camp located at the Pool, is close to the Fern Lake trail.

A trail connects Bear Lake with Odessa Lake. One of the finest trail trips in the park is the circle trip from Bear Lake to Odessa Lake, and thence to Fern Lake and Moraine Park. The distance from Bear Lake to the Brinwood by this route is 9 miles, but a day is usually allowed for the trip.

ROMANTIC LOCH VALE

Within a right-angled bend of the Continental Divide lies a glacier-watered, cliff-cradled valley which for sheer rocky wildness and the glory of its flowers has few equals. At its head Taylor Peak lifts itself precipitously 3,000 feet to a total height of more than 13,000 feet, and from its western foot rises Otis Peak, of nearly equal loftiness, the two carrying between them broken perpendicular walls carved by the ages into fantastic shapes. One dent encloses Andrews Glacier and lets its waters find the Loch. On the eastern side another giant, Thatchtop, sheltering the Taylor Glacier, walls in the upper end of Loch Vale. It is easily reached by a trail that leaves the Bear Lake Road, 10 miles from Estes Park, or 1 mile below Bear Lake.

In this wild embrace lies a valley 2 or 3 miles long ascending from the richest of forests to the barren glacier. Through it tinkles Icy Brook, stringing like jewels, three small lakes. Those who love to explore the undeveloped and less frequented regions will enjoy the wild beauty and impressive grandeur of Loch Vale. The Lake of Glass and Sky Pond, just below Taylor Glacier, can be visited in a day's trip. Another wonderful day can be spent in a trip to the foot of Andrews Glacier.

GLACIER GORGE

One of the noblest gorges in any mountain range the world over lies south of Loch Vale. It is reached from the Bear Lake Road, by the Loch Vale trail, although there are no trails in the gorge. Above Lake Mills the western wall of the gorge is formed by McHenrys Peak and Thatchtop; its head lies in the hollow between the Continental Divide and Longs Peak, with Chiefs Head and Pagoda looming on its horizon. Its eastern wall is the long sharp northern buttress of Longs Peak itself. It is a gorge of indescribable wildness. Lake Mills lies near the mouth of the valley, Black Lake is toward the upper end, while Shelf Lake, Blue Lake, and several others are perched on benches high above the valley floor.

This gorge is magnificent and worth visiting. There is no trail to Keyhole, on the great shoulder of Longs Peak, but the ascent can be made. The canyon is luxuriantly covered in places with a large variety of wild flowers.

THE TWIN SISTERS

Nine miles south of the village of Estes Park, split by the boundary line of the national park, rises the precipitous, picturesque, and very craggy mountain called the "Twin Sisters", on which the park maintains a fire lookout. Its elevation is 2,400 feet above the valley floor, which is about 9,000 feet high. The trail leads by many zigzags to a peak from which appears the finest view by far of Longs Peak and its guardians, Mount Meeker and Mount Lady Washington.

From the summit of the Twin Sisters an impressive view is also had of the foothills east of the park, with glimpses beyond of the great plains of eastern Colorado and many of their irrigating reservoirs.

ASCENT OF LONGS PEAK

Of the many fascinating and delightful mountain climbs, the ascent of Longs Peak is the most inspiring, and it is one of the most strenuous. The great altitude of the mountain, 14,255 feet above sea level and more than 5,000 feet above the valley floor, and its position well east of the Continental Divide, affording a magnificent view back upon the range, make it much the most spectacular viewpoint in the park. The difficulty of the ascent also has its attractiveness. Longs Peak is the big climb of the Rocky Mountain National Park. And yet the ascent is by no means forbidding. One may go more than half-way by horseback. Over a thousand men and women, and occasionally children, climb the peak each season. Those making the Longs Peak trip should have strong, comfortable shoes, stout warm clothing, and remember that cold or stormy weather is sometimes encountered.

The peak may be reached by either of two trails which lead to the Boulder Field, the highest point on the climb to which horses may be taken. The east trail, which begins near Longs Peak post office, 9 miles south of Estes Park, winds up the slope of Battle Mountain, passes timberline at an elevation of more than 11,000 feet, swings to the crest of Mills Moraine, overlooking Chasm Gorge, then skirts the slope of Mount Lady Washington, goes through Granite Pass, and leads to the shelter cabin in the center of the Boulder Field, at an elevation of 12,700 feet, a distance of 6 miles.

From Glacier Gorge Junction on the Bear Lake Road, the north trail winds its way up the north slope of the peak through the great burn of 1900 and joins the east trail at Granite Pass, a mile and a half below the Boulder Field cabin. The distance to the Boulder Field by this trail is 9 miles.

From the Boulder Field cabin the ascent to the summit may be made by either of two routes. The north face route, which is the shorter, climbs the precipitous north side of the summit, skirting along the rim of the east precipice, with magnificent views down the sheer drop of 1,200 feet into Chasm Lake in the gorge below. The Longs Peak climb includes the hazards usual to any major mountain ascent. Visitors are cautioned that use of the assisting cables on the North Face route is at their risk and the Government is in no way responsible. The other route leads across the Boulder Field to the Keyhole, half a mile distant and some 500 feet higher, where there is a small storm shelter.

On passing through the Keyhole, one sees the imposing Front Range, and 2,000 feet below the Glacier Gorge. To the left there is a narrow, steeply inclined ice-filled gulch, called the Trough. Finally, after what is to the amateur often an exhausting climb, one passes along the Narrows, up a steep incline known as the Homestretch.

The trip to the Keyhole is well worth while for those who do not care to climb Longs Peak, but who do wish to see at close range the rugged grandeur of the mountains. Another splendid foot trip from the Boulder Field cabin is to Chasm View, half a mile distant, where one sees the precipitous east face of Longs Peak, from the summit down to Chasm Lake, 2,500 feet below.

CHASM LAKE

One may ride on horseback almost to Chasm Lake. The view from here is magnificent, and the upper gorge is one of the most impressive in the park. Both Chasm Lake and the Keyhole may be visited in a day. This is an exceptionally fine trip, and if horses are used it is not difficult.

WILD BASIN

The splendid Wild Basin area south of Longs Peak and east of the Continental Divide is dotted with lakes of superb beauty in a sublime mountain setting. It is entered from Copeland Lake by an unimproved road up the North Fork of St. Vrain Creek, which soon lapses into a trail. From mountain tops on the south may be had unsurpassed views of the snowy mountains. The largest lakes of Wild Basin--Thunder Lake and Bluebird Lake--are both above timberline but are easily accessible by trails.

GRAND LAKE

The North and East Inlets are the two principal rivers entering beautiful Grand Lake. Each flows from cirques under the Continental Divide. Lake Nokoni and Lake Nanita, among the most romantic of the park, are reached from a trail connecting with both sides of the park by the Flattop Trail. Lake Verna and her unnamed sisters are the beautiful sources of the East Inlet and are reached by trail.

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