Read Ebook: The Mentor: Bolivia vol. 5 Num. 18 Serial 142 November 1 1917 by Newman E M Edward Manuel

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The Cathedral of La Paz, on the same side of the plaza as the Government Palace, is still in process of construction. The foundations were laid in 1843. When finished it will be one of the largest and most expensive cathedrals in South America. It is to be built in the Graeco-Roman style, will have towers nearly 200 feet high, a dome the top of which will be 150 feet above the floor, and will be capable of seating 12,000 persons.

Across the corner from the Government Palace is the Hall of Congress. Another interesting spot is the market place. Here come thousands of Indians to buy and sell.

Other buildings of note are the old University of San Andr?s , the Church of San Francisco, the Church of Santo Domingo, the Museum of Natural History, rich in relics of the Inca and colonial periods, the very much up-to-date theater, and the Municipal Library.

The houses of the poorer classes in La Paz are usually built with mud walls and covered with tiles. The better class dwellings, however, are constructed of stone and brick.

La Paz is an important commercial center. It is connected with the Pacific coast by the Bolivian Railway from Mollendo , to Puno and a Bolivian extension from Guaqui to Alto de La Paz--the two lines being connected by a steamship service across Lake Titicaca. An electric railway, five miles long, runs from the Alto de La Paz to the city.

FIVE

On May 25, 1809, the first city of Spanish South America revolted against the rule of Spain. That city was Sucre . This town was originally the site of an Indian village called Chuquisaca or Chuquichaca, which means "golden bridge." In 1538 the Spaniards under Captain Pedro Angules settled there and called the place Charcas and Ciudad de la Plata , but the natives always clung to the original Indian name. In time the town became the favorite residence and health resort of the rich mine owners of Potos?, some distance away. After the South Americans had won their independence, the name of Chuquisaca was changed to Sucre, in honor of the general who won the last decisive battle of the war and then became the first president of Bolivia. Since that time the city has suffered much from quarrels between the various factions of Bolivia. It is now the nominal capital of the republic, but the seat of government for Bolivia is located in La Paz. Since the government was removed there, Sucre has greatly diminished in importance.

The city is in an elevated valley, being about 8,839 feet above the sea. For this reason it has an exceptionally agreeable climate. In the vicinity are fertile valleys which provide the city markets with fruits and vegetables. The population of the city is about 25,000.

Sucre is laid out regularly. It has broad streets, a large central plaza and a public garden, or promenade, called the Prado. There are nine plazas altogether. That called the "25 de Mayo" has a stream on each side. One of these flows northward and joins the Mamor? and so reaches the Amazon. The other turns southeast, going on to the Pilcomayo and at last to the estuary of La Plata . The Cathedral of Sucre, called the Metropolitan Cathedral, is the richest in Bolivia. It dates from 1553, and possesses an image of solid gold with a rich adornment of jewels, called "The Virgin of Guadalupe ." This is said to be worth a million dollars. The legislative palace of Sucre contains handsomely decorated halls; but this building is no longer occupied as such by the national government. Other important buildings are the Cabildo , or town hall; the mint, dating from 1572; the courts of justice; and the University of San Francisco Xavier , which was founded in 1624 and has faculties of law, medicine and theology.

At the lower end of the central plaza, or Prado is a pretty chapel called the "Rotunda." This was erected in 1852 by President Belzu , on the spot where an unsuccessful attempt had been made to assassinate him.

Sucre is the seat of the supreme court of Bolivia, and also of the archbishop of La Plata and Charcas, the primate of Bolivia.

The city is not a commercial one. Its only noteworthy manufacture is the "clay dumplings" which are eaten with potatoes by the inhabitants of the Bolivian uplands. In spite of being the capital of the country, it is one of its most isolated towns, because of the difficult character of the roads leading to it. It is reached from the Pacific by way of Challapata , a station on the Antofagasta and Oruro Railroad. The city will soon be connected by rail with the region of the west.

Cochabamba is called the Garden City of Bolivia. It was founded in 1574 in a beautiful valley on the east side of the mountains, which are here called the Royal Range. For a time the town was known as Oropesa . During the war of independence, the people of the city took an active part; the women especially distinguished themselves in an attack on the Spanish camp in 1815. Three years later some of them were put to death by the Spanish forces. In general, the isolated situation of Cochabamba has been a protection against the disorders which have from time to time upset Bolivia.

The climate is mild and temperate, and the surrounding country fertile and cultivated. Trade is active; and in fact the city is one of the most progressive in Bolivia, in spite of its isolated situation. It is laid out regularly and contains many attractive buildings. The city has a university and two colleges, but they are poorly equipped.

The name of the city of Potos? has become proverbial and "smacks of almost magical and unearthly wealth." It possesses some of the most wonderful silver mines in the world. Founded in 1547, shortly after the first discovery of silver there by an Indian herder, it has since produced an enormous amount of the precious metal. One writer estimates the yield of the mines there as having been worth one billion dollars. Seven thousand mines have been started, of which seven hundred are being worked for silver and tin today. At one time the city had a population of 150,000, which has now dwindled to about 25,000.

Potos? stands on a barren terrace about 13,000 feet above sea level, and is one of the highest towns in the world. It is 47 miles southwest of Sucre in a direct line. The famous Cerro Gordo de Potos? rises above the town to a height of 15,381 feet, a barren, white capped mountain, honeycombed with mining shafts. The town itself is laid out regularly. A large plaza forms the center, around which are grouped various buildings, such as the government house, national college, the old "Royal Mint," dating from 1585, and the treasury. The city has a cathedral, which in part dates from early colonial times. The water supply is derived from a system of twenty-seven artificial lakes, or reservoirs, and aqueducts constructed by the Spanish government during the years of the city's greatest prosperity.

Oruro is an important mining town of about 20,000 people. During the colonial period this town was noted next to Potos?, for the richness and productiveness of its mines. The mines in the neighborhood are now worked principally, though not entirely, for tin.

Oruro is 115 miles south-southeast in a direct line from La Paz. It stands 12,250 feet above sea level, and its climate is characterized by a short, cool summer and a cold, rainy winter. Oruro is the Bolivian terminus of the Antofagasta Railway, the first constructed in Bolivia. In time the city promises to be one of the most important railway centers in the country.

Oruro contains many foreign residents, and several clubs. The government palace and the university building face the principal plaza. Besides these, the city has a theater, a public library and a mineralogical museum, as well as the usual churches, hospitals and schools.

There is one other region in Bolivia that should be visited by all travelers interested in the mysterious past of the country. This region is called Tiahuanacu . It is not far from La Paz, and the ruins there were believed by Sir Clements Markham to indicate the former existence of a large city of the Incas. One huge gateway, broken and apparently not in its original position, is especially interesting. This great piece of stone is 13 feet wide, 7 feet above the ground, and 3 feet thick. It is curiously and elaborately carved. In the center is a human head, supposed to represent the creator of the universe. To this, other figures, partly human and some with heads of condors, seem to be offering worship.

Other stones in this region are remarkable for their size and for the ornamental carving that appears upon them. All the ruins are apparently of great age. It is not difficult to imagine a time when the city was the home of thousands of human beings in a very advanced stage of civilization.

BOLIVIA

A PACK TRAIN OF LLAMAS IN LA PAZ

LA PAZ--FROM THE RIM OF THE HEIGHTS

HOUSE OF CONGRESS LA PAZ

INCA TEMPLE OF THE SUN, ON LAKE TITICACA

ORURO

STREET SCENE AND MARKET, SUCRE

Bolivia is another Thibet; one of the highest inhabited plateaus in the world. It is one of the richest mineral sections, as it now produces about one-third of the world's supply of tin, and contains vast wealth in its rich copper, gold, and silver mines. Nearly ninety per cent. of its population is of Indian origin, and to this fact may be attributed its slow progress; as outside of its capital city, almost everything is still in a primitive state.

Since its last war with Chile, it has been shut off from the sea-coast; and to get to Bolivia one must now cross either Chile or Peru, which necessitates a long journey by rail; and if the entrance be by way of the Peruvian gateway, Mollendo, Lake Titicaca must also be crossed.

Lying in a valley, at an altitude of more than 12,000 feet above the level of the sea, is the Bolivian capital, La Paz, the City of Peace. It is picturesquely situated in a huge bowl, cut into the plateau; and to reach it one must descend in an electric car, 1,300 feet down the steep slope, where, at the bottom of the cup, lies a city of more than 150,000 people. In its situation, it is probably the most remarkable of all capitals. Although called the City of Peace, it has been the scene of turmoil and strife ever since the Spaniards invaded these solitudes. Rising high above the city is beautiful Illimani, one of the highest peaks of the Andes. Perpetually clad in snow, this magnificent mountain dominates the view, and is one of the most striking scenic features of Bolivia.

In the central square of La Paz rises the cathedral, which has been in process of building for forty years, and at the rate it is progressing it will probably not be completed for another century. On this same central square is the Bolivian House of Congress, nearly all of its members of Indian origin. This plaza is the center of political life, and radiating from it are the principal business thoroughfares.

Plaza San Francisco is another of the important squares of the city, and takes its name from the magnificent church, one of the most artistic structures in South America. Upon this square, at all hours of the day, there is a fascinating panorama of life; for, passing constantly, are picturesque Indians, clad in grotesque costumes, many of them driving burros or the Andean beast of burden, the llama.

In no other city of the world are the costumes worn by Indians as elaborate as those seen in the streets of La Paz. The Cholo or half-breed is resplendent in garments of the brightest colors. The women in particular are gorgeously arrayed in silk skirts, kid boots and straw hats.

There is a curious custom which is rigidly observed. Full blooded Indians must wear felt hats, and are looked upon as inferior in social standing. The Cholos may always be distinguished by their straw hats, which are never worn by the others. Having married a Bolivian, or perhaps a white man, a Cholo woman considers herself quite a superior being. She delights in patronizing the best shops, where she seeks only the costliest silks, the gayest of shawls, and kid boots with high heels, which are imported from France or from the United States.

When fully attired, she is a sight to behold. Arrayed in all her finery, she promenades like a queen through the streets of the city; and yet, back of it all, the influence of blood is evident. She may dress ever so elaborately, but the old customs still cling; she still insists upon carrying her baby on her back in good old Indian fashion, and she is not averse to carrying her market basket when she goes to the market to make her purchases. Most numerous among the Indians are the Aymaras, who, unlike the Quichua Indians of Peru, are surly and inclined to hold aloof from the white man. They are seemingly indifferent to the white man's influence. For clothing, the Aymar? men wear shirts and trousers of a coarse cotton material; and over their shoulders is thrown a poncho of heavy woolen cloth. Aside from their poncho, the most attractive part of their costume is a curious woolen head-covering, beautifully embroidered with beads in gay colors. In a climate where it is always cold except at midday, these caps with their long ear-muffs are very serviceable. Women who are wives of full-blooded Indians make no pretension in the way of attire, and they accept without question their social status, which relegates them to an inferior position.

Much of the trading carried on with the Indians is done by barter; they bring their farm and garden produce to the city, and exchange it with dealers for groceries or wearing apparel. Very few of them accumulate money, and wealth is very rare.

Many of their laws are unique, and are no doubt born of tribal customs which have been handed down for generations, and yet are usually rigidly observed. If, for instance, a doctor loses seven patients, Indian law decrees that the career of the doctor must terminate, and that his life must be a forfeit for his failure to save the lives of his patients. After the Indian doctor has lost his sixth patient, he usually departs for some unknown place.

Although the Bolivian capital is overwhelmingly Indian in point of population, in appearance it is decidedly modern. Its streets are paved with cobblestones, but as a rule are clean and kept in good condition. The pavements may be rough, but it must be borne in mind that there are very few level thoroughfares; most of the streets are very hilly, and would be almost impossible to navigate were it not for the cobblestones, which permit men and beasts to maintain a foothold. Municipal laws will not permit Indians to make use of the thoroughfares for their llamas during business hours; they are brought into the city early in the morning, remaining in some patio or courtyard awaiting the evening hours, when their owners drive them home. At sunset one may see long trains of these quaint animals driven through the streets on their way back to the farms. The llama lends picturesqueness to one of the most unusual cities on the face of the globe.

Little or no coal is burned, as it costs per ton, and only the very wealthy could afford to use it. There is no wood, so few of the houses are heated. Most of the English and American residents use oil burners or electric heaters in their homes; but even the principal hotel is so cold that men usually go to dinner in their overcoats and the women enveloped in furs. Most visitors usually retire immediately after dining, as the night air is so cold that it can be endured only by those acclimated. It is no uncommon thing for a guest at the hotel to pile upon his bed all the available covering that he can obtain, including the carpet on the floor of his room.

One might imagine that Cholo women are unusually corpulent; but this is apparent only because of the fact that they don from twelve to twenty skirts. At times, contests are held between Indian belles as to which has the more gorgeous petticoats, and also the greater number. A winner is said to have displayed as many as twenty-four, disclosing a collection of brilliantly colored petticoats unequaled elsewhere for variety.

Both Bolivians and Indians are, as a rule, Catholics. On Corpus Christi day, which is religiously celebrated, there is a curious procession in which thousands of people take part, and a strange combination of Cholos, Aymaras and native Bolivians wend their way through the various thoroughfares. In this parade, the Cholo women discard their straw hats and wear their shawls instead. Most of them belong to church societies, and these organizations are indicated by ribbons worn around the neck, the color denoting the society to which the wearer belongs.

All the dignitaries of the church take part in the Corpus Christi day procession. Business is practically suspended, and the President of the Republic, accompanied by the members of the Houses of Congress and all the officials of the Government, march to the cathedral, where services are held. On various thoroughfares, altars are erected, and these are usually decorated by the members of the different ladies' societies.

Religion has a strong hold on the people of Bolivia. One not affiliated with the church is looked upon with suspicion and becomes a social outcast. In no other country are the churches better attended.

The most attractive of the thoroughfares in the Bolivian capital is the Alameda, a wide avenue lined with trees, and having in its center a promenade. It is on this thoroughfare that the various legation buildings are situated. As usual, one may walk along this street and seek for the most unattractive building and be quite sure that it is the American legation building. Almost every government is here represented, so that the Alameda might be said to be the center of diplomatic life.

La Paz is surprisingly modern in the architecture of its business structures. Most of the buildings are of brick, plastered over and painted. Many of its shops would be a credit to an American city. They are by no means mere country stores, but carry an astonishingly good class of merchandise, and many of the products of France and the United States are displayed for sale in the various shop windows. To leave the capital city, one must ascend by electric railway to the plateau, where is situated the railway depot. One may go directly south by rail all the way to Antofagasta, Chile, where steamer connections are made for Valparaiso. On this journey, one obtains a wonderful view of the back-bone of the Andes, traveling along a plateau averaging in height about 14,000 feet above sea level. The snow-clad summits of this mighty range of mountains are constantly in sight. There are few cities along the railway. Perhaps the most important of the Bolivian towns is Oruro, which is in the center of a very rich salt country, and as the railroad approaches the Chilean boundary there are rich deposits of borax and nitrate.

Many travelers experience all the terrors of soroche or mountain sickness when traveling on the high Bolivian plateau. The altitude is dangerous for some people, and in a few cases results fatally. One whose heart is weak should not attempt the journey, as it is trying even upon the strongest constitution, and such evidences of altitude as nose-bleed and dizzy spells afflict even those who are accustomed to high altitudes.

During the cold winter months, many Bolivians descend the eastern slope of the Andes to Sucre, which has become a favorite winter resort for diplomatic representatives. Sucre is several thousand feet lower than La Paz, and its climate is somewhat milder. Lower down, toward the Brazilian boundary, there are tropical forests and a wild, uninhabited country where disease lurks; and here are great jungles and swamps, making human habitation almost impossible except for the aboriginal tribes, which seem to be immune to the fevers that infest this low-lying country. Among other important cities in Bolivia are Potos?, and Cochabamba, where there is an American school, a branch of the American Institute of La Paz. A number of young American men and women have voluntarily left home and friends and have gone to Bolivia to teach the youth of that country. The best families send their children to the American schools, and the Bolivian boys and girls are not only taught the English language, but they are made familiar with the history of the United States. It is the ambition of many of the sons of Bolivian parents to acquire the language, so that they may make their future home in America. The American teachers are unusually capable young men and women, and the standard of efficiency that one finds in the American Institute is a credit to the young people who have made the sacrifice of leaving home and living in Bolivia.

The military system is patterned after that of Germany, as the soldiers of the country have been drilled by German officers, and their influence is plainly evident in the familiar goose-step and the various manoeuvers that one may observe in military camps. The Bolivian soldiers have not the fighting qualities of the Chileans, and in past wars have proved anything but a match for their neighbors to the south.

In going from La Paz to Lake Titicaca, one travels over a level plateau, nearly three miles above the sea. Little or nothing grows at this altitude, and the few Indians living on this plain must have their food supply brought up from the valleys below on the backs of llamas. Other than mines, there is no inducement for even an Indian to make his home on this lofty plateau. There is no source of income other than working in some of the gold, silver and copper mines which abound in these altitudes.

Guaqui, a little town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, is the terminus of the railway. A regiment of cavalry is stationed at this port, as it in reality forms the boundary line of the country. In this little place, one obtains his final glimpse of the picturesquely attired Cholo women, as they are rarely seen outside of Bolivia. In their native country, their appearance excites no unusual interest; but even in Peru they are subjected to a certain amount of ridicule, which is displeasing to these haughty belles.

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