Read Ebook: Excursions in North Wales A Complete Guide to the Tourist Through That Romantic Country by Hicklin John

Font size: 10 px 15 px 20 px 25 px 30 px 35 px

Background color: BlackWhiteGrayLight GrayDark GrayDim Gray

Text color: BlackWhiteGrayLight GrayDark GrayDim Gray

Apply/Save settings

Ebook has 973 lines and 107790 words, and 20 pages

Transcribed from the 1847 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price.

EXCURSIONS IN NORTH WALES:

A COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE TOURIST THROUGH THAT ROMANTIC COUNTRY;

CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS OF ITS PICTURESQUE BEAUTIES, HISTORICAL ANTIQUITIES AND MODERN WONDERS.

EDITED BY JOHN HICKLIN, OF THE CHESTER COURANT.

LONDON: WHITTAKER AND CO.; HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.; LONGMAN AND CO.; AND SIMPKIN AND CO. R. GROOMBRIDGE & SONS. W. CURRY AND CO., DUBLIN. GEORGE PRICHARD , CHESTER.

INTRODUCTION.

The ancient City of Chester is unquestionably the most attractive and convenient starting-place, from which should commence the journey of the tourist, who is desirous of exploring the beautiful and romantic country of North Wales, with its lovely valleys, its majestic mountains, its placid lakes, its rushing torrents, its rural retreats, and its picturesque castles. Before leaving Chester, however, it will amply repay the intelligent traveller to devote some time to the examination of the many objects of interest, with which the "old city" abounds. A ramble round the Walls, embracing a circuit of about two miles, will not only disclose to the stranger a succession of views, illustrative of the quaint architecture and the singular formation of the city, but will reveal a series of landscapes of the most varied and charming description; while the ancient fortifications themselves, with their four gates and rugged towers, serve to exemplify the features of that troubled age, when they were erected for the protection of our ancestors against hostile invasions. Another striking peculiarity of Chester is the construction of the covered promenades, or Rows, in which the principal mercantile establishments are situated: unique and very curious are these old arcades, which are as interesting to the antiquarian, as they are convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies and others engaged in "shopping." The singular old houses, too, with their elaborately carved gables, of which Watergate-street, Bridge-street, and Northgate-street, furnish some remarkable specimens, will naturally attract attention. Among public edifices, the venerable Cathedral, though not possessing much claim to external elegance, is replete with interest, from the style of its architecture, and the many historical associations which a visit within its sacred precincts awakens. The cloisters and the chapter-house are interesting memorials of olden time; while the beautiful and effective restoration of the choir, which has lately been completed under the skilful superintendence of Mr. Hussey, of Birmingham, commands the admiration of all who take pleasure in ecclesiological improvements. The fittings of the interior have been entirely renovated; the Bishop's throne, a splendid and characteristic erection, has been restored; a new stone pulpit has been introduced, to harmonise with the style of the building; an altar screen, to divide the Lady Chapel from the choir, has been presented by the Rev. P. W. Hamilton, of Hoole; the eastern windows have been filled with stained glass, of admirable design and execution, by Mr. Wailes, of Newcastle; and a powerful organ, which cost ?1000, has been built by Messrs. Gray and Davison, of London. The expenses of the restoration were defrayed by public subscription; and too much praise cannot be given to the Dean for the zeal and liberality with which he has promoted these gratifying improvements, as well as for the efficient and orderly manner in which the choral services of the Cathedral are conducted. The fine old Church of St. John the Baptist, which in the tenth century was the Cathedral of the diocese, with the adjacent ruins of the Priory, should not be left unvisited; and St. Mary's Church also presents, in its roof and monuments, some objects of interest worth examining. Of the ancient Castle, very little, except Julius Caesar's tower, remains; but a magnificent modern structure, for military and county purposes, has been erected on the site of the old edifice, after designs by the late Mr. Harrison, of Chester. The shire-hall is an elegant fabric of light-coloured stone, the principal entrance to which is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and 3 feet 1 1/2 inch in diameter, each formed of a single stone. The court-room is a spacious semi-circular hall, lighted from above. The county prison is behind, on a lower level, whence prisoners are brought into the dock by a flight of steps. The extremities of the county-hall are flanked by two uniform elegant buildings, facing each other, appropriated as barracks for the officers and soldiers of the garrison. In the higher ward is an armoury, where from thirty to forty thousand stand of arms, and other munitions of war, are constantly kept, in the same beautifully arranged manner as at the Tower of London. The spacious open area in front of the Castle is enclosed by a semi-circular wall, surmounted with iron railings; in the centre is the grand entrance, of Doric architecture, greatly admired for its chaste construction and elegant execution. The front view is classical and imposing.

Our limited space prevents us from entering into particular descriptions of other buildings and antiquities, which might well claim our attention; as the remarkable Crypt and Roman Bath in Bridge-street, the Museum at the Water Tower, the Blue Goat Hospital, the Training College, the Linen Hall, the Episcopal Palace, the Exchange, &c.; but we must not omit to remind the stranger, that when at Chester, he is only three miles distant from that magnificent modern mansion, Eaton Hall, the seat of the Marquis of Westminster. The approach to the beautiful and extensive park in which this princely abode is situated, is by an elegant Lodge on the Grosvenor Road, about a quarter of a mile from Chester Castle; or the excursion may be made by a boat on the lucid bosom of the river Dee, which runs through verdant meads and lovely scenery close by the pleasure-grounds of the Hall. Visitors must be careful to provide themselves with tickets, which may be obtained of the publisher of this little work in Bridge-street Row, or they will not be admitted to view the interior of the mansion. The elaborate adornments, the gorgeous fittings, and the truly magnificent architecture of Eaton Hall, with its superb furniture, its beautiful pictures, and exquisite sculpture, never fail to excite the most lively admiration; and to pass it without a call, would be held by the residents of this neighbourhood to be a sort of topographical heresy, of which tourists should not be guilty.

Having satisfied their taste and curiosity by exploring the attractions and characteristics of Chester and the vicinity, we will suppose that our travellers are now ready to proceed into Wales; and for the purpose of directing and enlivening their journey, we present them, in this little Manual, with a faithful Guide and an amusing Companion by the way. The admirer of Nature, in her wildest or her loveliest guise; the man of antiquarian research, the student of history, the valetudinarian in quest of health, or the ardent votary of "the rod and line," anxiously seeking for favourable spots where the angler may best indulge his piscatorial fancies; may find in the following pages some information adapted to his taste and pursuits.

Among the other advantages which Chester possesses as a starting-place for visiting the Principality, may be mentioned its position as a grand central terminus, where the London and North Western, the Chester and Holyhead, the Shrewsbury and Chester, the Chester and Birkenhead, and the Lancashire and Cheshire Junction Railways, meet. A splendid station, commensurate with the requirements of the traffic from this combination of railway interests, will forthwith be built at Chester, at an estimated cost of ?80,000. The Shrewsbury and Chester line being now open as far as Ruabon, pleasant excursions can easily be made to the vale of Gresford, Wrexham, Wynnstay Park, and Llangollen: and as in August of this year the Chester and Holyhead Railway will be opened as for as Conway, visits to that delightful locality, including the intermediate stations for Flint, Mostyn, St. Asaph, Rhyl, and Abergele, may then be enjoyed in a day. Facilities like these will no doubt tend greatly to increase the number of tourists to North Wales; where the principal hotels are admirably conducted, and carriages, cars, and horses, with civil drivers well acquainted with the country, may be engaged on satisfactory terms.

It may not be without its use to indicate a few excursions, which would include some of the most interesting and romantic parts of the Principality. From Chester, a charming trip may be taken to Hawarden, Holywell, St. Asaph, Abergele, Conway, Aber, Bangor, Menai Bridge, Beaumaris; returning by Penrhyn Castle, the Nant Ffrancon Slate Quarries, Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-Coed, Pentrevoelas, Corwen, Llangollen, Wynnstay Park, Wrexham, Eaton Hall, Chester; or Eaton Hall may be taken on leaving Chester, Wrexham next, and so on to Beaumaris, returning by Conway and Holywell. This route may be comfortably accomplished in four days; or if pressed for time, in three, as the railway would be available from Ruabon to Chester.

Another excursion, which would occupy four days, might be made by taking the railway from Chester to Birkenhead, embarking at Liverpool in the steam-packet which passes Beaumaris and the Menai bridge for Caernarvon, thence to Beddgelert, Pont Aberglaslyn, and return, ascend Snowdon, descend to Dolbadarn, Pass of Llanberis, Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, and return by Nant Ffrancon slate quarries, Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, thence by steamer to Liverpool.

An agreeable and more extended route may also be taken from Caernarvon to Clynog, Pwllheli, Criccieth, Tremadoc, Port Madoc, Tan-y-bwlch, Maentwrog, Ffestiniog, Beddgelert, Nant Gwynan, Capel Curig, Rhaiadr-y-Wennol, Bettws-y-coed, Llanrwst, Conway, Penmaen Mawr, Aber, and Bangor for the packet to Liverpool.

Another journey may be accomplished in nine days:--from Chester to Eaton hall, Wrexham, Wynnstay, Chirk Castle, Llangollen, Valle Crucis Abbey, Corwen, Vale of Edeirnion, Bala, Dolgelley, Cader Idris, Barmouth, Harlech, Maentwrog, Tan-y-Bwlch, Ffestiniog, Port Madoc, Tremadoc, Pont Aberglaslyn, Beddgelert, Capel Curig, Dolbadarn, Victoria Hotel, Snowdon, Caernarvon, Menai bridge, Bangor, Aber, Conway, Abergele, St. Asaph, Denbigh, Ruthin, Mold, Chester.

Those whose time is less limited can readily select tours which will include a wider range of country, according to their taste and convenience; we have, therefore, adopted, in our literary panorama, an alphabetical arrangement, which, with the aid of the index, will direct the reader to the description of any place he may be desirous of visiting; and, as the distances are also marked, he may readily calculate the extent of the route he contemplates. The work has been compiled from authentic sources, and has been carefully revised, throughout, by the present editor, with the view of presenting to the public an accurate and entertaining Guide-book through North Wales.

GLOSSARY.

The English traveller, in passing through North Wales, will find the following Welsh terms frequently occur in the names of places; to which are subjoined their significations in English.

NORTH WALES DISTANCE TABLE

PANORAMA.

ABER,

ABER, or, as it is called by way of distinction, Aber-gwyngregyn, the Stream of the White Shells, is a small neat village, situated on the Holyhead and Chester road, near the Lavan Sands, at the extremity of a luxuriant vale watered by the river Gwyngregyn, which runs into the Irish sea; it commands a fine view of the entrance into the Menai, with the islands of Anglesea and Priestholme, and the vast expanse of water which rolls beneath the ragged Ormesheads. The pleasantness of its situation, and the salubrity of its air, render this place exceedingly attractive during the summer season, and the beach, at high water, is very convenient for sea bathing.

The church is an ancient structure, with a square tower; the living being in the gift of Sir R. W. Bulkeley.

The Bulkeley Arms is an excellent inn, where post-chaises and cars may be had.

This is considered a very convenient station for such persons as wish to examine Penmaen-mawr, and the adjacent country, either as naturalists or artists. From this place also persons frequently cross the Menai straits immediately into Anglesea, in a direction towards Beaumaris. The distance is somewhat more than six miles. When the tide is out, the Lavan Sands are dry for four miles, in the same direction, over which the passenger has to walk within a short distance of the opposite shore, where the ferry-boat plies. In fogs, the passage over these sands has been found very dangerous, and many have been lost in making the hazardous enterprise at such times. As a very salutary precaution, the bell of Aber church, which was presented for the purpose by the late Lord Bulkeley, in 1817, is rung in foggy weather, with a view to direct those persons whose business compels them to make the experiment. It would be dangerous for a stranger to undertake the journey without a guide, as the sands frequently shift: however, since the erection of the Menai bridge, this route is seldom taken.

The village is situated at the mouth of the deep glen, which runs in a straight line a mile and a half between the mountains, and is bounded on one side by a magnificent rock, called Maes-y-Gaer. At the extremity of this glen, a mountain presents a concave front, down the centre of which a vast cataract precipitates itself in a double fall, upwards of sixty feet in height, presenting in its rushing torrent over the scattered fragments of rock a grand and picturesque appearance.

At the entrance of the glen, close to the village, is an extensive artificial mount, flat at the top, and near sixty feet in diameter, widening towards the base. It was once the site of castle belonging to the renowned prince, Llewelyn the Great, foundations are yet to be seen round the summit; and in digging, traces of buildings have been discovered. This spot is famous as the scene of the reputed amour of William de Breos, an English baron, with the wife of the Welsh hero, and of the tragical occurrence which followed its detection. This transaction, which has given rise to a popular legend, is well told in Miss Costello's "Pictorial Tour," published in 1845:--

Llywelyn had been induced by the artful promises of the smooth traitor, king John, to accept the hand of his daughter, the princess Joan; but his having thus allied himself did not prevent the aggressions of his father-in-law, and John having cruelly murdered twenty-eight hostages, sons of the highest Welsh nobility, Llywelyn's indignation overcame all other considerations, and he attacked John in all his castles between the Dee and Conway, and, for that time freed North Wales from the English yoke.

There are many stories told of the princess Joan, or Joanna, somewhat contradictory, but generally received: she was, of course, not popular with the Welsh, and the court bard, in singing the praise of the prince, even goes so far as to speak of a female favourite of Llywelyn's, instead of naming his wife: perhaps he wrote his ode at the time when she was in disgrace, in consequence of misconduct attributed to her. It is related that Llywelyn, at the battle of Montgomery, took prisoner William de Breos, one of the knights of the English court, and while he remained his captive treated him well, and rather as a friend than enemy. This kindness was repaid by De Breos with treachery, for he ventured to form an attachment to the princess Joan, perhaps to renew one already begun before her marriage with the Welsh prince. He was liberated, and returned to his own country; but scarcely was he gone than evil whispers were breathed into the ear of Llywelyn, and vengeance entirely possessed his mind: he, however, dissembled his feelings, and, still feigning the same friendship, he invited De Breos to come to his palace at Aber as a guest. The lover of the princess Joan readily accepted the invitation, hoping once more to behold his mistress; but he knew not the fate which hung over him, or he would not have entered the portal of the man he had injured so gaily as he did.

The next morning the princess Joan walked forth early, in a musing mood: she was young, beautiful, she had been admired and caressed in her father's court, was there the theme of minstrels and the lady of many a tournament--to what avail? her hand without her heart had been bestowed on a brave but uneducated prince, whom she could regard as little less than savage, who had no ideas in common with her, to whom all the refinements of the Norman court were unknown, and whose uncouth people, and warlike habits, and rugged pomp, were all distasteful to her. Perhaps she sighed as she thought of the days when the handsome young De Breos broke a lance in her honour, and she rejoiced, yet regretted, that the dangerous knight, the admired and gallant William, was again beneath her husband's roof. In this state of mind she was met by the bard, an artful retainer of Llywelyn, who hated all of English blood, and whose lays were never awakened but in honour of his chief, but who contrived to deceive her into a belief that he both pitied and was attached to her. Observing her pensive air, and guessing at its cause, he entered into conversation with her, and having 'beguiled her of her tears' by his melody, he at length ventured on these dangerous words.--

"Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn, Beth a roit ti am weled Gwilym?"

"Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what would you give for sight of your William?"

The princess, thrown off her guard, and confiding in harper's faith, imprudently exclaimed:--

"Cymru, Lloegr, a Llywelyn, Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!"

"Wales, and England, and Llywelyn--all would I give to behold my William!"

The harper smiled bitterly, and, taking her arm, pointed slowly with his finger in the direction of a neighbouring hill, where, at a place called Wern Grogedig, grew a lofty tree, from the branches of which a form was hanging, which she too well recognised as that of the unfortunate William de Breos.

In a dismal cave beneath that spot was buried "the young, the beautiful, the brave;" and the princess Joan dared not shed a tear to his memory. Tradition points out the place, which is called Cae Gwilym Dhu.

Notwithstanding this tragical episode, the princess and her husband managed to live well together afterwards; whether she convinced him of his error, and he repented his hasty vengeance, or whether he thought it bettor policy to appear satisfied; at all events, Joan frequently interfered between her husband and father to prevent bloodshed, and sometimes succeeded. On one occasion she did so with some effect, at a time when the Welsh prince was encamped on a mountain above Ogwen lake, called Carnedd Llywelyn from that circumstance; when he saw from the heights his country in ruins, and Bangor in flames. Davydd, the son of the princess, was Llywelyn's favourite son. Joan died in 1237, and was buried in a monastery of Dominican friars at Llanvaes, near Beaumaris; Llywelyn erected over her a splendid monument, which existed till Henry the Eighth gave the monastery to one of his courtiers to pillage, and the chapel became a barn. The coffin, which was all that remained of the tomb, like that of Llywelyn himself, was thrown into a little brook, and for two hundred and fifty years was used as a watering trough for cattle. It is now preserved at Baron Hill, near Beaumaris.

ABERDARON,

Caernarvon 36 Nevyn 16 Pwllheli 16

This is a miserably poor village, at the very extremity of Caernarvonshire, seated in a bay, beneath some high and sandy cliffs. On the summit of a promontory are the ruins of a small church, called Capel Vair, or Chapel of our Lady. The chapel was placed here to give the seamen an opportunity of invoking the tutelar saint for protection through the dangerous sound. Not far distant, are also the ruins of another chapel, called Anhaelog. At this spot, pilgrims in days of yore embarked on their weary journey to pay their vows at the graves of the saints of Bardsey.

The original church was a very old structure, in the style of ancient English architecture, dedicated to St. Hyrwyn, a saint of the island of Bardsey, and was formerly collegiate and had the privilege of sanctuary; it contained a nave, south aisle, and chancel, and was an elegant and highly finished building. A new church has been recently built, on the site of the old one, at the expense of the landed proprietors, aided by the church building societies.

The mouth of the bay is guarded by two little islands, called Ynys Gwylan, a security to the small craft of the inhabitants, who are chiefly fishermen. It takes its name from the rivulet Daron, which empties itself here.

This primitive village is noted as the birth place of Richard Robert Jones, alias Dick Aberdaron, the celebrated Welsh linguist. He was born in 1778, and died in deep distress at St. Asaph in 1843. Jones was the son of a carpenter, and always evinced a want of capacity, except in the acquiring of languages by self culture. He began with the Latin tongue when fifteen years of age. At nineteen he commenced with Greek, and proceeded with Hebrew, Persiac, Arabic, French, Italian, and other modern languages; and was ultimately conversant with thirteen. Notwithstanding that he read all the best authors, particularly in the Greek, he seemed to acquire no other knowledge than as to the form and construction of language. He was always in great indigence, and used to parade the streets of Liverpool extremely dirty and ragged, with some mutilated stores of literature under his arm, and wearing his beard several inches long. He was at one time much noticed by the late Mr. Roscoe, who secured him a weekly stipend, which however was not maintained after the death of that distinguished scholar.

Bardsey Island,

Generally called by the Welsh Yr Ynys Enlli , and formerly known as the Island of the Saints, is situated about three leagues to the west of Aberdaron; it is somewhat more than two miles long and one broad, and contains about 370 acres of land, of which near one-third is occupied by a high mountain, affording sustenance only to a few sheep and rabbits. The number of inhabitants does not exceed one hundred, and their chief employment is fishing, there being great abundance round the island. It is the property of Lord Newborough.

On the south-east side, which is only accessible to the mariner, there is a small well sheltered harbour, capable of admitting vessels of 30 or 40 tons burden. The lighthouse was erected in 1821; it is a handsome square tower, 74 feet high, and surmounted by a lantern, 10 feet high.

This island was formerly celebrated for an abbey, a few portions only of which are now remaining. Dubricius, archbishop of Caerlleon, resigned his see to St. David, retired here, and died A.D. 612; he was interred upon the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his memory in after ages, that his remains were removed in the year 1107 to Llandaff, and interred in that cathedral, of which Dubricius had been the first bishop. After the slaughter of the monks of Bangor Is-y-coed, nine hundred persecuted men who had embraced Christianity, sought a sacred refuge in this island, where numbers of the devout had already established a sanctuary, and found repose from the troubles which then raged through the Principality.

ABERDOVEY,

Aberystwyth across the sands 11 Barmouth 16 Dolgellau 21 Machynlleth 10 Towyn 4

This is a small sea-port in the parish of Towyn, and about four miles from that place. It is pleasantly situated on the northern side of the mouth of the river Dovey, which here empties itself into Cardigan bay, and is rapidly rising into estimation as a bathing place. The beach is highly favourable for bathing, being composed of hard firm sand, affording a perfectly safe carriage-drive of about eight miles in length, along the margin of the sea. The ride to Towyn along the sands, at low water, is extremely delightful.

Share on: WhatsApp @Hash Facebook Tweet