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PREHISTORIC CAVE-DWELLERS

Formation of chalk--Of dolomitic limestone--Where did the first men live--Their Eden in the chalk lands--Migration elsewhere--Pit dwellings--Civilisation stationary--Troglodytes--Antiquity of man--Les Eyzies--H?tel du Paradis--The first colonists of the V?z?re Valley-- Their artistic accomplishments--Painting and sculpture--Rock dwellings in Champagne--Of a later period--Civilisation does not progress uniformly--The earth--Book of the Revelation of the past--La Laugerie Basse--Blandas--Conduch?--Grotte de Han--The race of Troglodytes not extinct

MODERN TROGLODYTES

Troglodytes of the Etang de Berre--The underground town of Og, King of Bashan--Tr?o--Sanitation--Ancient mode of disposing of refuse--The talking well--Les Roches--Chateau de Bandan--Chapel of S. Gervais--La Grotte des Vierges--Rochambeau--Le Roi des Halles--La Roche Corbon-- Human refuse at Ezy--Saumur--Are there still pagans among them?-- Bourr?--Courtineau--The basket-makers of Villaines--Grioteaux--Sauliac --Cuzorn--Brant?me--La Roche Beaucourt--The Swabian Alb--Sibyllen loch-- Vrena Beutlers H?hle--Schillingsloch--Schl?ssberg H?hle--Rock village in Sicily--In the Crimea--In Egypt--In volcanic breccia--Balmes de Montbrun--Grottoes de Boissi?re--Grottoes de Jonas--The rock Ceyssac-- The sandstone cave-dwellings of Corr?ze--Their internal arrangement-- Cluseaux--Cave-dwellings in England--In Nottinghamshire--In Staffordshire--In Cornwall--In Scotland--The savage in man--Reversion to savagery--The Gubbins--A stone-cutter--Daniel Gumb--A gentleman of Sens--Toller of Clun Downs

SOUTERRAINS

Prussian invasion of Bohemia--Adersbach and Wickelsdorf labyrinths-- Refuges of the Israelites--Gauls suffocated in caves by Caesar-- Armenians by Corbulo--Story of Julius Sabinus--Saracen invasion--The devastation of Aquitaine by Pepin--Rock refuges in Quercy--The Northmen--Persecution of the Albigenses--The cave of Lombrive--The English domination of Guyenne--Two kinds of refuges--Saint Macaire-- Alban--Refuge of Ch?teau Robin--Exploration--Methods of defence-- Souterrain of Fayrolle--Of Saint Gauderic--Of Fauroux--Of Olmie-- Aubeterre--Refuges under castles--Enormous number of souterrains in France--Victor Hugo's account of those in Brittany--Refuges resorted to in the time of the European War--Those in Picardy--Gapennes--Some comparatively modern--Condition of the peasantry during the Hundred Years' War--Tyranny of the nobles--Their barbarities--Refuges in Ireland--In England--The Dene Holes--at Chislehurst--At Tilbury--Their origin--Fogous in Cornwall--Refuges in Haddingtonshire--In Egg-- Slaughter of the Macdonalds--Refuges in the Isle of Rathlin--Massacre by John Norris--Refuges in Crete--Christians suffocated in one by the Turks--Lamorciere in Algeria. . . . . .

CLIFF REFUGES

Distinction between souterrain and cliff refuges--How these latter were reached--Gazelles--Peuch Saint Sour--Story of S. Sour--The Roc d'Aucor --Exploration--How formerly reached--Boundoulaou--Riou Ferrand--Cliff refuge near Brengues--Les M?es--Fadarelles--Puy Labrousse--Soulier-de- Chasteaux--Refuges in Auvergne--Meschers--In Ari?ge--The Albigenses-- Caves in Derbyshire--Reynard's cave--Cotton's cave--John Cann's cave-- Elford's cave on Sheep's Tor.... 103-116

CLIFF CASTLES. THE ROUTIERS

The seigneural castle--Protection sought against the foes without and against the peasant in revolt--Instance of the Ch?teau Les Eyzies-- Independence of the petty nobles--Condition of the country in France-- In Germany--Weakness of the Emperor--The Raubritter--Italy--The nobles brought into the towns--Their towers--Division of the subject-- Difference between the English manor-house and the foreign feudal castle--The English in France--The Hundred Years' War--Hopeless condition of the people--The Free Companies--How recruited--Crusade against the Albigenses--Barons no better than Routiers--Death of chivalry--Routiers were rarely Englishmen--Had no scruples as to whom they served--Disregarded treaties--The captains were Gascons or French --The nobles of the south on the English side--Nests in the rock-- Depopulation and devastation--Insolence of the Companies--Bigaroque-- Roc de Tayac--Corn--Roquefort--Brengues--The Bishop of Cahors dies there--Ch?teau du Diable at Cabrerets--D?fil? des Anglais--Peyrousse-- Les Roches du Tailleur--Trosky--The scolding women--The English not forgotten in Guyenne . . . . . 117-141

The difference between feudal castles and those of the Routiers-- Illustration of the character of the nobles--Two Counts of Perigord-- The nobles in Auvergne--"Les grands Jours"--La Roche Saint Christophe-- Surprised and destroyed--Reoccupied by the Huguenots--Final destruction--La Roche Gageac--Its history--Jean Tarde--Ravages of the Huguenots--Gluges--La Roche Lambert--Habichstein--B?rgstein--The spy-- Kronmetz--Covolo--Puxerloch--The shadowless man--Nottingham Castle-- Arrest of Mortimer--Outmost castles--La Grotte de Jioux--Clovis crosses the Vienne--Le Gu? du Loir--Antoine de Bourbon--Calvin at Saint Saturnin--His cave--La Roche Corail--Cave in which the "Institute of the Christian Religion" was written--Effects produced by this work --Preparation of men's minds for reform--Havoc wrought to art by the Calvinists--La Rochebrune--A cave-colander--Necessity for outlook stations--Frontier fortifications

SUBTERRANEAN CHURCHES

Basilicas and catacumbal churches--Preference of the people for the latter--The cult of martyrs encouraged this--Crypts--Elevation of relics--Church of SS. John and Paul on the Coelian Hill--Temples were originally sepulchres--Basilican churches converted into mausoleums-- Dedications--Altars of wood changed for altars of stone--At first the bodies of martyrs were not dismembered--But dismemberment was made necessary by the transformation--The Martyrium of Poitiers--S. Emilion --Carvings--Crypt--Aubeterre--A Huguenot stronghold--Orders issued by Jeanne d'Albret--Her extended powers--The monolithic church--Menaced by ruin--Rocamadour--Lirac--Mimet--Caudon--Natural caves used as churches--Gurat--Lanmeur--Story of S. Melor--Dolmen Chapel of the Seven Sleepers--Another at Cangas-de-Ones--Confolens--Subterranean churches in Egypt--In Crete--The sacred caves in Palestine--Revival of cave sanctuaries by the Crusaders--Springs of water in crypts

ROCK HERMITAGES

Tibetian recluses--Christian hermits in Syria and Egypt--The Essenes and Therapeutae--Description by Philo of the latter--Buddhist and Manichaeean influence--Difference in motive--Likeness superficial-- Possible necessity for the adoption of asceticism--Instance of extravagant asceticism in Syria--Extravagances in Ireland--In England --Early European solitaries--The Beatus H?hle--Grotto of S. Cybard-- Decadence--Hermits in Languedoc--In Germany--A grocer hermit-- Hermitage at S. Maurice--The Wild Kirchlein--The cave of S. Verena at Soleure--That of Magdalen at Freiburg--Oberstein--Hermitage at Brive-- La Sainte Beaume--Soug?--Villiers--Montserrat--Subiaco--La Vernia-- Warkworth--Knaresborough--Robin Hood's stable--Roche--Anchor Church-- Royston cave--Its carvings--Kindly remembrance of the hermit--The hermit a loss

ROCK MONASTERIES

The hermits self-excommunicate--Liability to create a schism--S. Paul-- S. Mary of Egypt--S. Anthony--Enormous number of solitaries compels organisation into monasteries--Causes inducing flight to the desert--S. Athanasius at Tr?ves--Writes the "Life of S. Anthony"--Impulse given to flight from the world in the West--S. Martin--Desires to imitate the Lives of the Fathers of the Desert--At Poitiers--Founds Ligug?--Rock cells--Later history and ruin--Martin becomes Bishop of Tours--Founds Marmoutier--History and ruin--Martin and the masqueraders--Present state--Baptistry--The Seven Sleepers--Brice elected bishop--Obliged to fly the see--Return and penance--Cave of S. Leobard--Abbey of Brant?me --Underground church--Other caves--"Papists' Holes" at Nottingham--Rock monastery of Meteora--Der el Adra--Inkermann

CAVE ORACLES

ROBBERS' DENS

Humphrey Kynaston--His adventurous life--Cave at Ness Cliff--Chinamen-- David at Adullam--Bandit caves in Palestine--Lombrive--Surtshellir-- Feruiden's cave--Gargas--La Crouzafce--The haunts of Grettir-- Dunterton--Precautions against burglary--Story of K. F. Masch--His capture--The Leichtweishohle--Adersbach retreats--Babinsky--His capture

BOOK SEPULCHRES

INDEX

CLIFF CASTLE, BRENGUES CAVE DWELLERS AT DUCLAIR SAULIAC GRIOTEAUX LA ROCHEBRUNE SKETCH PLAN OF ROCK STABLE, COMMARQUES PLAN OF ROCK HOLES IN NOTTINGHAM PARK DRAKELOW AUBETERRE PLAN OF THE REFUGE OF CH?TEAU ROBIN THE CH?TEAU OF FAYROLLES CLUSEAU DE FAUROUX LA ROCHE GAGEAC LE PEUCH S. SOUR CAVES OF MESCHERS CAVE REFUGE AT SOULIER DE CHASTEAU LE D?FIL? DES ANGLAIS, LOT CH?TEAU DES ANGLAIS, BRENGUES CH?TEAU DU DIABLE, CABRERETS CH?TEAU DU DIABLE, CABRERETS CORN, LOT CH?TEAU DES ANGLAIS, AUTOIRE COVOLO LA ROCHE DU TAILLEUR KRONMETZ THE PUXERLOCH, STYRIA HABICHSTEIN, BOHEMIA ROCK MONASTERY, NOTTINGHAM PARK ROCK MONASTERY, NOTTINGHAM PARK LA ROCHE CORAIL LA ROCHE CORAIL THE FIRST HALL GU? DE LOIR LES ROCHES PLAN OF MARTYRIUM MONOLITHIC CHURCH OF S. EMILION AUBETERRE, CHARENTE, INTERIOR OP MONOLITHIC CHURCH ROCAMADOUR AUBETERRE, CHARENTE SUBTERRANEAN CHURCH, AUBETERRE DOLMEN CHAPEL OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS PLAN OF DOLMEN CHAPEL NEAR PLOUARET PLAN OF CHAPEL OF S. AMADOU SCULPTURE IN ROYSTON CAVE SCULPTURE IN ROYSTON CAVE ROYSTON CAVE CHATEAU DE RIGNAC LE TROU BOUROU ROCK BAPTISTERY OF ST. MARTIN TRIUMPH OF CHRIST OVER DEATH CAVES OF LIGUG? NESS CLIFF KYNASTON'S CAVE

CLIFF CASTLES AND CAVE DWELLINGS OF EUROPE

PREHISTORIC CAVE-DWELLERS

In a vastly remote past, and for a vastly extended period, the mighty deep rolled over the surface of a world inform and void, depositing a sediment of its used up living tenants, the microscopic cases of foraminiferae, sponges, sea-urchins, husks, and the cast limbs of crustaceans. The descending shells of the diatoms like a subaqueous snow gradually buried the larger dejections. This went on till the sediment had attained a thickness of over one thousand feet. Then the earth beneath, heaved and tossed in sleep, cast off its white featherbed, projected it on high to become the chalk formation that occupies so distinct and extended a position in the geological structure of the globe. The chalk may be traced from the North of Ireland to the Crimea, a distance of about 11,140 geographical miles, and, in an opposite direction, from the South of Sweden to Bordeaux, a distance of 840 geographical miles.

It extends as a broad belt across France, like the sash of a Republican mayor. You may travel from Calais to Vend?me, to Tours, Poitiers, Angoul?me, to the Gironde, and you are on chalk the whole way. It stretches through Central Europe, and is seen in North Africa. From the Crimea it reaches into Syria, and may be traced as far as the shores of the sea of Aral in Central Asia.

The chalk is not throughout alike in texture; hard beds alternate with others that are soft--beds with flints like plum-cake, and beds without, like white Spanish bread.

We are accustomed in England to chalk in rolling downs, except where bitten into by the sea, but elsewhere it is riven, and presents cliffs, and these cliffs are not at all like that of Shakespeare at Dover, but overhang, where hard beds alternate with others that are friable. These latter are corroded by the weather, and leave the more compact projecting like the roofs of penthouses. They are furrowed horizontally, licked smooth by the wind and rain. Not only so, but the chalk cliffs are riddled with caves, that are ancient water-courses. The rain falling on the surface is drunk by the thirsty soil, and it sinks till, finding where the chalk is tender, it forms a channel and flows as a subterranean rill, spouts forth on the face of the crags, till sinking still lower, it finds an exit at the bottom of the cliff, when it leaves its ancient conduit high and dry.

But before the chalk was tossed aloft there had been an earlier upheaval from the depths of the ocean, that of the Jurassic limestone. This was built up by coral insects working indefatigably through long ages, piling up their structures, as the sea-bottom slowly sank, straining ever higher, till at length their building was crushed together and projected on high, to form elevated plateaux, as the Causses of Quercy, and Alpine ranges, as the Dolomites of Brixen. But in the uplifting of this deposit, as it was inelastic, the strain split it in every direction, and down the rifts thus formed danced the torrents from higher granitic and schistous ranges, forming the gorges of the Tarn, the Ard?che, the Herault, the Gaves, and the Tim?e, in France.

It has been a puzzle to decide which appeared first, the egg out of which the fowl was hatched, or the hen which laid the egg; and it is an equal puzzle to the anthropologist to say whether man was first brought into existence as a babe or in maturity. In both cases he would be helpless. The babe would need its mother, and the man be paralysed into incapacity through lack of experience. But without stopping to debate this question, we may conclude that naked, shivering and homeless humanity would have to be pupil to the beasts to learn where to shelter his head. Where did man first appear? Where was the Garden of Eden? Indisputably on the chalk. There he found all his first demands supplied. The walls of cretaceous rock furnished him with shelter under its ledges of overhanging beds, flints out of which to fashion his tools, and nodules of pyrites wherewith to kindle a fire. Providence through aeons had built up the chalk to be man's first home.

Incontestably, the great centres of population in the primeval ages were the chalklands, and next to them those of limestone. The chalk first, for it furnished man with flints, and the limestone next when he had learned to barter.

He could have lived nowhere else, till, after the lapse of ages, he had developed invention and adaptability. Besant and Rice, in "Ready-money Mortiboy," speak of Divine Discontent as the motive power impelling man to progress. Not till the chalk and the limestone shelters were stocked, and could hold no more, would men be driven to invent for themselves other dwellings. The first men being sent into the world without a natural coat of fur or feathers, would settle into caves or under overhanging roofs of rock, and with flint picked out of it, chipped and pointed, secure the flesh of the beast for food and its hide for clothing. Having accomplished this, man would sit down complacently for long ages. Indeed, there are certain branches of the human family that have progressed no further and display no ambition to advance.

Only when the districts of chalk and limestone were overstocked would the overflow be constrained to look elsewhere for shelter. Then some daring innovators, driven from the favoured land, would construct habitations by grubbing into the soil, and covering them with a roof of turf. The ancient Germans, according to Tacitus, lived in underground cabins, heaped over with dung to keep them warm during the long winter. With the invention of the earthenware stove, the German Bauer has been enabled to rise above the surface; but he cherishes the manure round his house, so to speak, about his feet, as affectionately as when it warmed his head.

The ancients knew that the first homes of mankind were grottoes. They wrote of Troglodytes in Africa and of cave-dwellers in Liguria. In Arabia Petraea, a highly civilized people converted their simple rock- dwellings into sumptuous palaces.

At first the announcements proving the antiquity of man were received with orthodox incredulity, because, although the strata, in which the remains were found, are the most modern of all earth's formations, still the testimony so completely contravened traditional beliefs, that the most conclusive evidence was required for its proof. Such evidence has been found, and is so strong, and so cumulative in character as to be now generally accepted as conclusive.

Since then, in the valley of the V?z?re, Les Eyzies in the Department of Dordogne, has become a classic spot. I have already described it in another work, but I must here say a few more words concerning it. On reaching the valley of the V?z?re by the train from Perigueux, one is swung down from the plateau into a trough between steep scarps of chalk-rock that rise from 150 to 300 feet above the placid river. These scarps have been ploughed by the weather in long horizontal furrows, so that they lean over as though desirous of contemplating their dirty faces in the limpid water. Out of their clefts spring evergreen oaks, juniper, box and sloe-bushes. Moss and lichen stain the white walls that are streaked by black tricklings from above, and are accordingly not beautiful--their faces are like that of a pale, dirty, and weeping child with a cold in its head, who does not use a pocket-handkerchief. Jackdaws haunt the upper ledges and smaller caves that gape on all sides chattering like boys escaped from school, and anon a raven starts forth and hoarsely calls for silence. At the foot of the stooping crags, bowing to each other across the stream, lie masses that have broken from above, and atop and behind these is to be seen a string of cottages built into the rock, taking advantage of the overarching stratum of hard chalk; and cutting into it are russet, tiled roofs, where the cottagers have sought to expand beyond the natural shelter: they are in an intermediate position. Just as I have seen a caddis-worm emancipating itself from its cage, half in as a worm, half out as a fly.

Nature would seem to have specially favoured this little nook of France, which must have been the Eden of primeval man on Gallic soil. There he found ready-made habitations, a river abounding in fish, a forest teeming with game; constrained periodically to descend from the waterless plateaux, at such points as favoured a descent, to slake their thirst at the stream, and there was the nude hunter lurking in the scrub or behind a stone, with bow or spear awaiting his prey--his dinner and his jacket.

What beasts did he slay? The wild horse, with huge head, was driven by him over the edge of the precipice, and when it fell with broken limbs or spine, was cut up with flint knives and greedily devoured. The reindeer was also hunted, and the cumbersome mammoth enabled a whole tribe to gorge itself.

The grottoes perforating the cliff, like bubbles in Gruy?re cheese, have been occupied consecutively to the present day. Opposite to Les Eyzies, hanging like a net or skein of black thread to the face of the precipice, is a hotel, part gallery, part cave--l'Auberge du Paradis; and a notice in large capitals invites the visitor to a "Course aux Canards."

When I was last there, reaching the tavern by a ladder erected in a grotto, I learned that an American couple on their honeymoon had recently slept in the guest-chamber scooped out of the living rock. The kitchen itself is a cavern, and in it are shelves, staged against the rock, offering Chartreuse, green and yellow, Benedictine, and Cr?me de Menthe. The proprietor also possesses a gramophone, and its strident notes we may well suppose imitate the tones of the first inhabitants of this den. Of the Roc de Tayac, in and against which this paradisaical hotel is plastered, I shall have more to say in another chapter.

The first men who settled in this favoured valley under shelters open to the blaze of the sun, in a soft and pleasant climate, where the air when not in proximity to men, is scented with mint, marjoram and juniper, where with little trouble a salmon might be harpooned, must have multiplied enormously--for every overhanging rock, every cavern, even every fallen block of stone, has been utilised as a habitation. Where a block has fallen, the prehistoric men scratched the earth away from beneath it, and couched in the trench. The ground by the river when turned up is black with the charcoal from their fires. A very little research will reward the visitor with a pocketful of flint knives and scrapers. And this is what is found not only on the main artery, but on all the lateral veins of water--wherever the cretaceous rocks project and invite to take shelter under them. Since the researches of Lartet and Christy, it has been known as an established fact that these savages were indued with rare artistic skill. Their delineations with a flint point on ivory and bone, of the mammoth, reindeer, and horse, are so masterly that these men stand forth as the spiritual ancestors of Landseer and Rosa Bonheur. And what is also remarkable is that the race which succeeded, that which discovered the use of metal, was devoid of the artistic sense, and their attempts at delineation are like the scribbling of an infant.

Of late years fresh discoveries have been made, revealing the fact that the Paleolithic men were able to paint as well as to engrave. In Les Combarelles and at Font-de-Gaume, far in the depths, where no light reaches, the walls have been found turned into a veritable picture- gallery. In the latter are twenty-four paintings; in the former forty- two.

Doctor Capitan and the Abb? Breuil were the first to discover the paintings in Les Combarelles. In an account read before the Academy of Sciences, they say: "Most frequently, the animals whose contours are indicated by a black outline, have all the surface thus circumscribed, entirely covered with red ochre. In some cases certain parts, such as the head of the urochs, seems to have been painted over with black and red together, so as to produce a brown tint. In other cases the head of the beast is black, and the rest of the body brown. This is veritable fresco painting, and the colour was usually applied after the outline had been graven in the stone. At other times some shading is added by hatching supplied after the outline had been drawn. Finally, the contours are occasionally thrown into prominence by scraping away the surface of the rock around, so as to give to the figures the appearance of being in low relief."

These wall paintings are by no means unique. They have been found as well at Pair-sur-Pair in Gironde, and in the grotto of Altamira at Santillana del Mar, in the north of Spain.

Still more recently an additional revelation as to the artistic skill of primeval man has been made; in a cave hitherto unexplored has been discovered actual sculpture with rounded forms, of extinct beasts.

These discoveries appeared incredible, first, because it was not considered possible that paintings of such a vastly remote antiquity could remain fresh and distinguishable, and secondly, because it was not thought that paintings and sculpture could be executed in the depths of a rayless cavern, and artificial light have left no traces in a deposit of soot on the roof.

But it must be remembered that these subterranean passages have been sealed up from time immemorial, and subjected to no invasion by man or beast, or to any change of air or temperature. And secondly, that the artists obtained light from melted fat in stone bowls on the floor, in which was a wick of pith; and such lamps would hardly discolour ceiling or walls. Of the genuineness of these paintings and sculptures there can be no question, from the fact that some are partly glazed over and some half obliterated by stalagmitic deposits.

Another discovery made in the Mas d'Azil in Arriege, is of painted pebbles and fan-shells that had served as paint-pots. The pebbles had been decorated with spots, stripes, zig-zags, crosses, and various rude figures; and these were associated with paleolithic tools. In the chalk of Champagne, where there are no cliffs, whole villages of underground habitations have been discovered, but none of these go back to the earliest age of all; they belong to various epochs; but the first to excavate them was the Neolithic man, he who raised the rude stone monuments elsewhere. He had learned to domesticate the ox and the sheep, had made of the dog the friend of man. His wife span and he delved; he dug the clay, and she formed it with her fingers into vessels, on which to this day her finger-prints may be found.

These caves are hollowed out in a thick bed of cretaceous rock. The habitations are divided into two unequal parts by a wall cut in the living chalk. To penetrate into the innermost portion of the cave, one has to descend by steps cut in the stone, and these steps bear indications of long usage. The entrance is hewn out of a massive screen of rock, left for the purpose, and on each side of the doorway the edges show the rebate which served to receive a wooden door-frame. Two small holes on the right and left were used for fixing bars across to hold the door fast. A good many of these caves are provided with a ventilating shaft, and some skilful contrivances were had recourse to for keeping out water. Inside are shelves, recesses cut in the chalk, for lamps, and to serve as cupboards. But probably these are due to later occupants. The Baron de Baye, who explored these caves, picked up worked flints, showing that their primitive occupants had been men of the prehistoric age, and other caves associated with them that were sepulchral were indisputably of the Neolithic age.

Mankind progresses not smoothly, as by a sliding carpet ascent, but by rugged steps broken by gaps. He halts long on one stage before taking the next. Often he remains stationary, unable to form resolution to step forward; sometimes even has turned round and retrograded.

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