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: Himalayan Journals — Complete Or Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas the Khasia Mountains etc. by Hooker Joseph Dalton - Natural history Himalaya Mountains; Himalaya Mountains Description and travel Travel
Camp on Zemu river--Scenery--Falling rocks--Tukcham mountain-- Height of glaciers--Botany--Gigantic rhubarb--Insects--Storm --Temperature of rivers--Behaviour of Lachen Phipun--Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas--View from mountains above camp--Descend to Zemu Samdong--Vegetation--Letters from Dorjiling--Arrival of Singtam Soubah--Presents from Rajah--Parties collecting arum-roots--Insects--Ascend Lachen river--Thakya-zong--Tallum Samdong village--Cottages--Mountains--Plants--Entomology-- Weather--Halo--Diseases--Conduct of Singtam Soubah--His character and illness--Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama--Tungu-- Appearance of country--Houses--Poisoning by aram-roots--Yaks and calves--Tibet ponies--Journey to Kongra Lama--Tibetan tents --Butter, curds, and churns--Hospitality--Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo--Magnificent scenery--Reach Kongra Lama pass.
Leave Lachoong for Tunkra pass--Moraines and their vegetation-- Pines of great dimensions--Wild currants--Glaciers--Summit of pass--Elevation--Views--Plants--Winds--Choombi district-- Lacheepia rock--Extreme cold--Kinchinjunga--Himalayan grouse-- Meteorological observations--Return to Lachoong--Oaks--Ascend to Yeumtong--Flats and debacles--Buried pine-trunks--Perpetual snow--Hot springs--Behaviour of Singtam Soubah--Leave for Momay Samdong--Upper limit of trees--Distribution of plants--Glacial terraces, etc.--Forked Donkia--Moutonneed rocks--Ascent to Donkia pass--Vegetation--Scenery--Lakes--Tibet--Bhomtso-- Arun river--Kiang-lah mountains--Yaru-Tsampu river--Appearance of Tibet--Kambajong--Jigatzi--Kinchinjhow, and Kinchinjunga-- Chola range--Deceptive appearance of distant landscape--Perpetual snow--Granite--Temperatures--Pulses--Plants--Tripe de roche --Return to Momay--Dogs and yaks--Birds--Insects--Quadrupeds --Hot springs--Marmots--Kinchinjhow glacier.
Donkia glaciers--Moraines--Dome of ice--Honey-combed surface-- Rocks of Donkia--Metamorphic action of granite veins--Accident to instruments--Sebolah pass--Bees and May-flies--View-- Temperature--Pulses of party--Lamas and travellers at Momay-- Weather and climate--Dr. Campbell leaves Dorjiling for Sikkim-- Leave Momay--Yeumtong--Lachoong--Retardation of vegetation at low elevations--Choongtam--Landslips and debacle--Meet Dr. Campbell--Motives for his journey--Second visit to Lachen valley --Autumnal tints--Red currants--Lachen Phipun--Tungu-- Scenery--Animals--Poisonous rhododendrons--Fire-wood--Palung --Elevations--Sitong--Kongra Lama--Tibetans--Enter Tibet-- Desolate scenery--Plants--Animals--Geology--Cholamoo lakes-- Antelopes--Return to Yeumtso--Dr. Campbell lost--Extreme cold --Headaches--Tibetan Dingpun and guard--Arms and accoutrements --Temperature of Yeumtso--Migratory birds--Visit of Dingpun-- Yeumtso lakes.
Dr. Campbell is ordered to appear at Durbar--Lamas called to council--Threats--Scarcity of food--Arrival of Dewan--Our jailer, Thoba-sing--Temperature, etc., at Tumloong--Services of Goompas--Lepcha girl--Jews'-harp--Terror of servants-- Ilam-sing's family--Interview with Dewan--Remonstrances--Dewan feigns sickness--Lord Dalhousie's letter to Rajah--Treatment of Indo-Chinese--Concourse of Lamas--Visit of Tchebu Lama--Close confinement--Dr. Campbell's illness--Conference with Amlah-- Relaxation of confinement--Pemiongchi Lama's intercession--Escape of Nimbo--Presents from Rajah, Ranee, and people--Protestations of friendship--Mr. Lushington sent to Dorjiling--Leave Tumloong --Cordial farewell--Dewan's merchandize--Gangtok Kajee-- Dewan's pomp--Governor-General's letter--Dikkeeling--Suspicion of poison--Dinner and pills--Tobacco--Bhotanese colony-- Katong-ghat on Teesta--Wild lemons--Sepoys' insolence--Dewan alarmed--View of Dorjiling--Threats of a rescue--Fears of our escape--Tibet flutes--Negotiate our release--Arrival at Dorjiling--Dr. Thomson joins me--Movement of troops at Dorjiling --Seizure of Rajah's Terai property.
LITHOGRAPHIC VIEWS.
WOOD ENGRAVINGS.
HIMALAYAN JOURNALS.
After my return from the Terai, I was occupied during the month of April in preparations for an expedition to the loftier parts of Sikkim. The arrangements were the same as for my former journey, except with regard to food, which it was necessary should be sent out to me at intervals; for we had had ample proof that the resources of the country were not equal to provisioning a party of from forty to fifty men, even had the Dewan been favourable to my travelling, which was clearly not the case.
Dr. Campbell communicated to the Rajah my intention of starting early in May for the upper Teesta valley, and, in the Governor-General's name, requested that he would facilitate my visiting the frontier of Sikkim, north-east of Kinchinjunga. The desired permission was, after a little delay, received; which appeared to rouse the Dewan to institute a series of obstructions to my progress, which caused so many delays that my exploration of the country was not concluded till October, and I was prevented returning to Dorjiling before the following Christmas.
Since our visit to the Rajah in December, no Vakeel had been sent by the Durbar to Dorjiling, and consequently we could only communicate indirectly with his Highness, while we found it impossible to ascertain the truth of various reports promulgated by the Dewan, and meant to deter me from entering the country. In April, the Lassoo Kajee was sent as Vakeel, but, having on a previous occasion been dismissed for insolence and incapacity, and again rejected when proposed by the Dewan at Bhomsong, he was refused an audience; and he encamped at the bottom of the Great Rungeet valley, where he lost some of his party through fever. He retired into Sikkim, exasperated, pretending that he had orders to delay my starting, in consequence of the death of the heir apparent; and that he was prepared to use strong measures should I cross the frontier.
No notice was taken of these threats: the Rajah was again informed of my intended departure, unless his own orders to the contrary were received through a proper accredited agent, and I left Dorjiling on the 3rd of May, accompanied by Dr. Campbell, who insisted on seeing me fairly over the frontier at the Great Rungeet river.
Arrangements were made for supplies of rice following me by instalments; our daily consumption being 80 lbs., a man's load. After crossing into Sikkim, I mustered my party at the Great Rungeet river. I had forty-two in all, of whom the majority were young Lepchas, or Sikkim-born people of Tibetan races: all were active and cheerful looking follows; only one was goitred, and he had been a salt-trader. I was accompanied by a guard of five Sepoys, and had a Lepcha and Tibetan interpreter. I took but one personal servant, a Portuguese half-caste , who cooked for me: he was a native of Calcutta, and though hardy, patient, and long-suffering, and far better-tempered, was, in other respects, very inferior to Clamanze, who had been my servant the previous year, and who, having been bred to the sea, was as handy as he was clever; but who, like all other natives of the plains, grew intolerably weary of the hills, and left me.
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