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UP THE YANG-TSZE TO WESTERN CHINA.

PAGE

Western China and the interest attaching to it--The way thither--An unsuccessful attempt to reach Ichang--Ichang at last--Difficulties of navigation--Commercial importance of Ichang--My native passenger-boat, opium-smoking skipper, and crew--The navigability of the Upper Yang-tsze by steamers--Dangers and difficulties of the Ching T'an Rapid--Up and down the rapid--The poppy--Ch'ung-k'ing. 1

CH'UNG-K'ING TO THE CAPITAL OF KUEI-CHOW.

My overland caravan--Harvesting opium--Field-fishing--Wood-oil--The manufacture of paper--Salt carriers--Silkworms and their food--Rice or Pith paper, and its manufacture--The Kuei-chow frontier--Minerals--First meeting with Miao-tz?--Poetical description of Chinese inns--T'ung-tz?, its poppy valley and tunnelling--Ingenious bamboo water-wheels--Scant population amid ruins of fine houses--Coal-dust as fuel--The Wu Chiang River--Destruction of the iron suspension bridge--Northern Kuei-chow, a Miao-tz? graveyard--Opium-sodden inhabitants--The capital of the Province--An interview with the Governor of Kuei-chow 14

WESTWARD TO Y?N-NAN.

White wax insects--Terrific hailstorm and its effects--Miao-tz? houses and women--An-shun Fu--Limestone cave--Pai-shui waterfall--Reception at Lang-t'ai T'ing--Lang-wang Mountain and the "Cave of the Spirits"--Caught in a thunderstorm--The pebbly strand of the Mao-k'ou River--Pack-animals and their treatment--The Y?n-nan frontier--A cart at last--Exploring a cave--Underground rivers--Exceptional courtesy--Go?tre--Breeding ground of the Y?n-nan pony--Trade route to Tonquin--Marching knee-deep in mud and water--Poverty of inhabitants--Queen's Birthday dinner in a back yard--Chinese inquisitiveness--The Sung-ming Lake--A local escort--A glorious view--Y?n-nan Fu. 35

THROUGH NORTH-EASTERN Y?N-NAN TO THE YANG-TSZE.

The city of Y?n-nan Fu--P'u-?rh tea--Opium-smoking, chair-bearers, and personal care--Exposure of robbers' heads--Chinese school--Rainbow superstition--Entertainment at Tung-ch'uan Fu--A successful ruse--Stopped by a mountain torrent--Lodged in a byre--On the banks of the Niu-lan River--The Chao-t'ung plain and its lakes--Stories of Lolo bloodshed--Down from the plain--Narrow escape of a porter--Back to Ss?-ch'uan--Descent of the Nan-kuang River--Down the Yang-tsze to Ch'ung-k'ing 54

FROM CH'UNG-K'ING TO THE CAPITAL OF SS?-CH'UAN.

Fu-t'ou-kuan--The country and its products--Chinese New Year--Charcoal from bracken--Ramie fibre and grass-cloth--Down a tributary of the T'o--The T'o and its commercial importance--The salt wells of Tzu-liu-ching--Sugar and safflower--The Ch'?ng-tu plain--Beggars--The capital of Ss?-ch'uan 70

THROUGH LOLODOM AND THE VALLEY OF CHIEN-CH'ANG.


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