: Excursions in North Wales A Complete Guide to the Tourist Through That Romantic Country by Hicklin John - Wales North Guidebooks

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Transcribed from the 1847 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price.

EXCURSIONS IN NORTH WALES:

A COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE TOURIST THROUGH THAT ROMANTIC COUNTRY;

CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS OF ITS PICTURESQUE BEAUTIES, HISTORICAL ANTIQUITIES AND MODERN WONDERS.

EDITED BY JOHN HICKLIN, OF THE CHESTER COURANT.

LONDON: WHITTAKER AND CO.; HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.; LONGMAN AND CO.; AND SIMPKIN AND CO. R. GROOMBRIDGE & SONS. W. CURRY AND CO., DUBLIN. GEORGE PRICHARD , CHESTER.

INTRODUCTION.

The ancient City of Chester is unquestionably the most attractive and convenient starting-place, from which should commence the journey of the tourist, who is desirous of exploring the beautiful and romantic country of North Wales, with its lovely valleys, its majestic mountains, its placid lakes, its rushing torrents, its rural retreats, and its picturesque castles. Before leaving Chester, however, it will amply repay the intelligent traveller to devote some time to the examination of the many objects of interest, with which the "old city" abounds. A ramble round the Walls, embracing a circuit of about two miles, will not only disclose to the stranger a succession of views, illustrative of the quaint architecture and the singular formation of the city, but will reveal a series of landscapes of the most varied and charming description; while the ancient fortifications themselves, with their four gates and rugged towers, serve to exemplify the features of that troubled age, when they were erected for the protection of our ancestors against hostile invasions. Another striking peculiarity of Chester is the construction of the covered promenades, or Rows, in which the principal mercantile establishments are situated: unique and very curious are these old arcades, which are as interesting to the antiquarian, as they are convenient for a quiet lounge to ladies and others engaged in "shopping." The singular old houses, too, with their elaborately carved gables, of which Watergate-street, Bridge-street, and Northgate-street, furnish some remarkable specimens, will naturally attract attention. Among public edifices, the venerable Cathedral, though not possessing much claim to external elegance, is replete with interest, from the style of its architecture, and the many historical associations which a visit within its sacred precincts awakens. The cloisters and the chapter-house are interesting memorials of olden time; while the beautiful and effective restoration of the choir, which has lately been completed under the skilful superintendence of Mr. Hussey, of Birmingham, commands the admiration of all who take pleasure in ecclesiological improvements. The fittings of the interior have been entirely renovated; the Bishop's throne, a splendid and characteristic erection, has been restored; a new stone pulpit has been introduced, to harmonise with the style of the building; an altar screen, to divide the Lady Chapel from the choir, has been presented by the Rev. P. W. Hamilton, of Hoole; the eastern windows have been filled with stained glass, of admirable design and execution, by Mr. Wailes, of Newcastle; and a powerful organ, which cost ?1000, has been built by Messrs. Gray and Davison, of London. The expenses of the restoration were defrayed by public subscription; and too much praise cannot be given to the Dean for the zeal and liberality with which he has promoted these gratifying improvements, as well as for the efficient and orderly manner in which the choral services of the Cathedral are conducted. The fine old Church of St. John the Baptist, which in the tenth century was the Cathedral of the diocese, with the adjacent ruins of the Priory, should not be left unvisited; and St. Mary's Church also presents, in its roof and monuments, some objects of interest worth examining. Of the ancient Castle, very little, except Julius Caesar's tower, remains; but a magnificent modern structure, for military and county purposes, has been erected on the site of the old edifice, after designs by the late Mr. Harrison, of Chester. The shire-hall is an elegant fabric of light-coloured stone, the principal entrance to which is through a portico of twelve columns in double rows, 22 feet high, and 3 feet 1 1/2 inch in diameter, each formed of a single stone. The court-room is a spacious semi-circular hall, lighted from above. The county prison is behind, on a lower level, whence prisoners are brought into the dock by a flight of steps. The extremities of the county-hall are flanked by two uniform elegant buildings, facing each other, appropriated as barracks for the officers and soldiers of the garrison. In the higher ward is an armoury, where from thirty to forty thousand stand of arms, and other munitions of war, are constantly kept, in the same beautifully arranged manner as at the Tower of London. The spacious open area in front of the Castle is enclosed by a semi-circular wall, surmounted with iron railings; in the centre is the grand entrance, of Doric architecture, greatly admired for its chaste construction and elegant execution. The front view is classical and imposing.

Our limited space prevents us from entering into particular descriptions of other buildings and antiquities, which might well claim our attention; as the remarkable Crypt and Roman Bath in Bridge-street, the Museum at the Water Tower, the Blue Goat Hospital, the Training College, the Linen Hall, the Episcopal Palace, the Exchange, &c.; but we must not omit to remind the stranger, that when at Chester, he is only three miles distant from that magnificent modern mansion, Eaton Hall, the seat of the Marquis of Westminster. The approach to the beautiful and extensive park in which this princely abode is situated, is by an elegant Lodge on the Grosvenor Road, about a quarter of a mile from Chester Castle; or the excursion may be made by a boat on the lucid bosom of the river Dee, which runs through verdant meads and lovely scenery close by the pleasure-grounds of the Hall. Visitors must be careful to provide themselves with tickets, which may be obtained of the publisher of this little work in Bridge-street Row, or they will not be admitted to view the interior of the mansion. The elaborate adornments, the gorgeous fittings, and the truly magnificent architecture of Eaton Hall, with its superb furniture, its beautiful pictures, and exquisite sculpture, never fail to excite the most lively admiration; and to pass it without a call, would be held by the residents of this neighbourhood to be a sort of topographical heresy, of which tourists should not be guilty.

Having satisfied their taste and curiosity by exploring the attractions and characteristics of Chester and the vicinity, we will suppose that our travellers are now ready to proceed into Wales; and for the purpose of directing and enlivening their journey, we present them, in this little Manual, with a faithful Guide and an amusing Companion by the way. The admirer of Nature, in her wildest or her loveliest guise; the man of antiquarian research, the student of history, the valetudinarian in quest of health, or the ardent votary of "the rod and line," anxiously seeking for favourable spots where the angler may best indulge his piscatorial fancies; may find in the following pages some information adapted to his taste and pursuits.

Among the other advantages which Chester possesses as a starting-place for visiting the Principality, may be mentioned its position as a grand central terminus, where the London and North Western, the Chester and Holyhead, the Shrewsbury and Chester, the Chester and Birkenhead, and the Lancashire and Cheshire Junction Railways, meet. A splendid station, commensurate with the requirements of the traffic from this combination of railway interests, will forthwith be built at Chester, at an estimated cost of ?80,000. The Shrewsbury and Chester line being now open as far as Ruabon, pleasant excursions can easily be made to the vale of Gresford, Wrexham, Wynnstay Park, and Llangollen: and as in August of this year the Chester and Holyhead Railway will be opened as for as Conway, visits to that delightful locality, including the intermediate stations for Flint, Mostyn, St. Asaph, Rhyl, and Abergele, may then be enjoyed in a day. Facilities like these will no doubt tend greatly to increase the number of tourists to North Wales; where the principal hotels are admirably conducted, and carriages, cars, and horses, with civil drivers well acquainted with the country, may be engaged on satisfactory terms.

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